air compresor regulator
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 229
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From: Canada
air compresor regulator
Bought a new 2-stage 175 psi air compressor. Since most air tools recommend 90psi, does this mean I need to run a regulator on it exept for the times when I specifically need the high pressures?? My old one only went to about 110psi so I didn't use a regulator, just gave it all it had!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Whidbey Island
Yes you would need a reg. if you get one get a large one for the volume to go thoough it. Or you could lower the cut out PSI to about 125 and use it that way if it was mine that is what I would do. Higher the PSI the lower the CFM
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
Air isnt extremely effecient anyway, actually not at all. Its to do work. Leave the factory settings where they are and go to HD or Lowes and get a regulator and filter. Get the one with 3/8 ports. Its plenty for that comp. You can mount it direct but I might go to TSC store and get a ready made hydraulic line to go from the comp to the filter, you could mount it remote. Yes they hyd line is overkill but they are ready made with the ends on them and available in a variety of lengths. Makes it real easy. While you are there you could check out hose reels, another nice addition. You will likey need a couple of reducing bushings and a pipe nipple or 2 to do this setup.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 64
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From: Chesapeake,VA
If you leave the fact. setting of 175 psi,make sure the filter-regulator is rated for at least 175 inlet pressure. In my experience, you won't find em at your local lowes or home depot. Your best bet is an industrial supplier like Graingers.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 592
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From: BC, Canada
I've done just what Sberry suggested about the flex hose and remote mounting and it seems to work well. I've started to run my lines with galvanized pipe but there are enough leaks in the system between the galvanized and copper that it won't hold pressure. I think it was said here NOT to use thread tape but can't recall why it was so important. If the tape is on the threads well back from where it can get into the air stream what could be the problem?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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On my compressor set up I have a ball valve set up to turn the air on and off or half way in between. From the ball valve it goes into a rubber line to absorb shock then into 1/2" black pipe. I then have regulators and water seperators at each outlet. This works well for me.
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Always use paste type liquid pipe dope. From my expeience you will have FAR fewer leaks to contend with. I almost never use teflon tape anymore.
There are a number of threads here, some in the archives, that have good information on how to set up a shop air system.
My compressor is set to cycle between 100-115 PSI and works well for all of my needs. I sometimes have to wait a moment for it to build to full pressure for a stubborn bolt but not often.
Check my gallery for a good lubricator to use for air tools. This point of use lubricator keeps my air lines clean.
There are a number of threads here, some in the archives, that have good information on how to set up a shop air system.
My compressor is set to cycle between 100-115 PSI and works well for all of my needs. I sometimes have to wait a moment for it to build to full pressure for a stubborn bolt but not often.
Check my gallery for a good lubricator to use for air tools. This point of use lubricator keeps my air lines clean.
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