Regulate shop's air system at the compressor?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
Regulate shop's air system at the compressor?
I'm plumbing my shop this weekend (finally). 3/4 inch copper pipe out to two drops. Each drop will have it's own regulator/filter set up. My compressor puts out 175psi. It has a shut off valve on the output.
Should I run the full 175psi in the lines and regulate it down just before the tool, or do I need to regulate it down for the whole system right at the compressor output?
Thanks,
Rob
Should I run the full 175psi in the lines and regulate it down just before the tool, or do I need to regulate it down for the whole system right at the compressor output?
Thanks,
Rob
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
I got the big two stage compressor primarily to support a media blast cabinet, grinders, and sanders. Eventually paint with an HVLP gun.
I bought it based on CFM output...it puts out over 17 CFM at 90 psi. That was the best CFM I could get for a two stage, oil lubed compressor for under $1,000.
The question about where to regulate it came up because I wondered if there would be loss of CFM potential by regulating the pressure down too early.
Cheers,
Rob
I bought it based on CFM output...it puts out over 17 CFM at 90 psi. That was the best CFM I could get for a two stage, oil lubed compressor for under $1,000.
The question about where to regulate it came up because I wondered if there would be loss of CFM potential by regulating the pressure down too early.
Cheers,
Rob
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Regulators are a big restriction point. Use the point of use regulation or regulate a section of the system depending on layout. Leave the full pressure line unrestricted to the blaster. You loose the energy used to compress the air when you pass thru a regulator. Air is very inefficient anyway.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
Rob, Congrats on your purchase. Wise decision to go with a two stage. You would be best served by lowering your pressure switch setting to something like 125 cut in and 150 cut out. In real life the many restrictions in an air system prevent that full pressure from reaching the tool in a dynamic situation. In other words, at static conditions you may have 140 PSIG in your system but as soon as you pull the trigger on your impact, the air flowing through a 1/4 quick dis-
connect will only allow 100 PSIG at the tool. These figures are only guestimates
but probably are not too far off base.
Also, most tire shops use 175 PSIG to install a wheel on its hub and it would be difficult to remove at only 90 PSIG.
Have fun!
connect will only allow 100 PSIG at the tool. These figures are only guestimates
but probably are not too far off base.
Also, most tire shops use 175 PSIG to install a wheel on its hub and it would be difficult to remove at only 90 PSIG.
Have fun!
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
If the tire store uses a torque limiter to install the lugnuts at the proper torque it does not matter what air pressure they use to operate their impact wrench.
They are sometimes called torque sticks like:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/accat4.html
They are sometimes called torque sticks like:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/accat4.html
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg Virginia.
Just a couple of tips Rob,
Use 1" or 3/4" for your main supply and run it up high. Use 3/4" or 1/2" for your two "drops".
At the bottom of your "drop" use a "tee", and continue the "drop" down about 6 to 8 inches with a drain valve at the bottom. This will let you drain the condensation from your lines. Don't forget to drain the compressor for condensation OFTEN.
One note about tire stores, DON'T let them use an air wrench on disc brakes, they may scream, but they arn't the ones that will have to replace the rotors when you start getting that "thump,thump,thump" when you apply the brakes. Doug.
Use 1" or 3/4" for your main supply and run it up high. Use 3/4" or 1/2" for your two "drops".
At the bottom of your "drop" use a "tee", and continue the "drop" down about 6 to 8 inches with a drain valve at the bottom. This will let you drain the condensation from your lines. Don't forget to drain the compressor for condensation OFTEN.
One note about tire stores, DON'T let them use an air wrench on disc brakes, they may scream, but they arn't the ones that will have to replace the rotors when you start getting that "thump,thump,thump" when you apply the brakes. Doug.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
From: Regina, Sask, Canada
if your gonna be using an hvlp gun later on id put it right at the connection for the lines (not the compressor itself) its the way we have it at our shop. it works awesome. and when your spraying its only gonna be at 40-50psi anyways.... but then again the other compressor (for the air tools) is regulated at the compressor
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