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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 09:40 AM
  #1  
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Trigger_17
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Which Clutch???

Im going to be replacing my cluctch (burned out) ive heard ppl use Zoom clutches and i know jegs sells them. my question is which one do i need, what dimensions fit on a 1980 ford f-100 with a carb'd Inline 6? anyone have a part number? also with this kit, how hard would it be to install myself? im not overly mechainically inclined but im not clueless either.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 10:02 AM
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You most likely have a 10" clutch - If you have never done a clutch - you need the help of someone who has or at least helped someone else. The transmission is fairly heavy and you have to put it back in line with the clutch and flywheel bushing. You may want to look into renting a transmission jack.

Also, get the flywheel resurfaced to go with your new disc. Also, you may want to get a Haynes or Chiltons manual before you start.

It's not a terribly hard job; but, it does take some strength and skill to get a good lasting repair.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 12:35 PM
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Make sure the kit you get comes with an alignment tool.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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When putting the clutch back in use some lock-tite on the bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel it cost little and may save you a headache in the future.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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LilDuke
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Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
You most likely have a 10" clutch
Are you sure its a 10"... When I put a clutch in my 79 they told me there was a 10 and 11" available. I went with the 11" and it fit just fine.
Originally Posted by Oscar Meier
Also, get the flywheel resurfaced to go with your new disc.
Absolutely. There is no point in doing all that work to end up having clutch chatter or worse premature wearout on your new clutch
Good Luck -Dave
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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Mech put a Cumberland clutch in my pickup. Anybody ever heard of it? It has extra shock absorbing springs ( I think double per each slot). Clutch is defineitly heavy duty, but has annoying habit sometimes of releasing with a bang under heavier accel. This has caused me to develop a habit of blipping the throttle during release to avoid the bang. So then it sounds weird, almost like a missed shift. Next time I will get a decent mech to do it. Although it might be the stupid concentric slave cylinder/throwout assembly as I had trouble with that binding.

BTW , I changed clutch in my '84 back 15 years ago. Just the right height with 2wd that I held tranny on my chest and then slid/rolled to ground. Was no big deal by myself. Did not do pilot bearing or flywheel (didn't know better). Clutch lasted only 60,000 miles. Original went 90,000.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 11:10 AM
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If the flywheel is drilled for an 11" your OK; however, an F100 is under the 8500 GVW and most likely has the 10" clutch. I guess the only way to really tell is look at it; but, my guess is 10"
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 02:50 PM
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thanks i noticed in the jegs catalog it looks like the 10" x 1/6" spline is the right one, and the one from zoom comes with the pilot bearing and an alignment tool, plus i'll have my dad helping me with this. and not to mention autozone has a rentable transmission jack.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 03:06 PM
  #9  
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Sounds like your ready - good luck
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 10:28 PM
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I bought a LUK - from NAPA, when I did my rebuild three years ago. It now has 40K+ on it... (LUK is an OEM replacement clutch, IIRC)

I have an '82 Bronco, and it's drilled to accept either 10 or 11 inch ( & maybe 9). For the money, the bigger ( & HD - if they have one) is WELL WORTH IT!

My transfer case is a pig, & the T-18 is a Russian Boar! I'll put the heaviest, best clutch in that I can find to avoid pulling them any sooner than I have to!
With granny first, I usually start out in second gear..
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 10:54 PM
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how do you tell what its "drilled" for? Never took notice to that. Is it where the clutch bolts to the flywheel?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 12:34 PM
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You'll see threaded bolt holes on the flywheel. Six (only) means you're stuck with what you have. IIRC, multiples of six mean you have OPTIONS!

Since you're replacing the clutch ANYWAY, go forward 'til you see the bare flywheel (clutch removed), then "count your options"... Worst case: you install a new clutch.

Mark the flywheel-to-crank orientation, pull it, & take it in to the parts place to make sure their clutch lines up with whatever holes you use. You need to have it resurfaced anyway, & resurfacing was INCLUDED in the cost of my LUK.

You MAY also have the option of replacing the flywheel. I don't recall if it would need to be - or is - ballanced, thus the "MAY" part of THIS possible option.

Seach FTE, under "clutch", for other "good" clutches. IIRC, there are at least two other OEM equivalents. For all the effort, I'd buy the best I could afford!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 07:20 AM
  #13  
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Check out Centerforce clutchs I went with a dual friction when I did mine, no trouble at all so far 15k miles.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 08:10 PM
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I came across my spare flywheel yesterday.

It is drilled for most, if not all, clutch sizes. As described, there are sets of threaded holes. I ID'd at least three sets, and there appeared to be 2-3 more.

By the way, THAT flywheel MAY have come from an '80 F-250 (I-6).

I'll be replacing my LUK HD clutch soon, not because it's worn out (at 40K), rather, because I'm planning a tranny upgrade and "might as well, while I'm at it" .
 
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 09:38 AM
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Just curious, what does IIRC mean?
 
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