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After three trips to a dealership and them telling me the ehaust smell in the cab and the hissing coming from the left front wheel well were normal, I went to another dealership. Low and behold, they diagnosed the Y-Tubes were cracked. They replaced the tubes and, Miraculously, the hissing and smell went away. The same hissing and smell that was supposed to be normal! A word of advise- Stick to your guns. If you know something is wrong, get satisfation. Hopefully there is a good dealership that will accomodate you.
By the way, I had a dead pedal issue that went away after the replacement. If anyone has a hissing coming from the wheel well area, they might want to check for an exhaust leak.
Does the hissing sound have a delay when the engine is cold. When I first start my truck in the mornings there is a delay of about 5 seconds before the hissing starts.
Exhaust Leak/Hiss Noise:
Some trucks may exhibit an exhaust leak at the driver side turbo inlet Y pipe. This usually occurs at the flex bellows portion of the pipe, and may be due to misalignent of the pipes. Replace the inlet Y pipe, following the new service procedure (also found in droan noise below). Broadcast Message 1419.
Failed factory Y pipes should be returned to International for inspection. Failed replacement Y pipes, or replacement pipes that will not line up properly should be returned to Ford's North American Diesel Team (contact HOTLINE for details) for inspection.
6.0 Moan/Droan Between 1500-2000 RPM:
Engineering has investigated this condition and found the cause to be engine firing pulses causing the turbo mounts to vibrate/resonate. There is a revised turbo pedestal for trucks built before 9-30-03--P/N 3C3Z-6N639-BA. Ensure the droan is not caused by a bound exhaust system. Inspect for any damaged or broken exhaust hangers. Check the turbo downpipe by loosening the pipe at the top and bottom, checking its alignment and retightening. If the droan is still present, check the part number embossed on the turbo pedestal just below the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler. If the number IS NOT 1846207C1, replace the pedestal with the above part. After replacement, or if the number IS 1846207C1, loosen the turbo inlet pipes and EGR cooler flange and neutralize by installing the components in this order: snug the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes; torque the EGR cooler clamp to 53 in/lbs; torque the pedestal bolts to 23 ft/lbs; torque the turbo inlet clamp to 9 ft/lbs: snug the inlet pipes to manifolds. Ensure all components are properly aligned. Torque the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes to 20 ft/lbs and the inlet pies to the manifolds to 20 ft/lbs. Broadcast Message 0992, SSM 17530, TSB #04-9-4.
Amazing how we know more about our trucks than the dealer and they are to be the experts and factory trained... good thing for FTE!!!
As far as the delay, mine delayed for a moment. I don't think as much as 5 seconds, but there was defininitely a delay. The hissing got louder as time went on. Sounded like a nail in the left front tire.
Kendall, do you have the exhaust smell in your cab too? That was probably the most annoying thing. In january when it started, it was cold so we would let the truck idle with the heater on. We would have to leave the windows open for fear of asphyxiating ourselves. If you have either problem, have them check the Y-tubes.
I've got an appointment for tomorrow for the same thing! I thought the exhaust smell was just the new engine breaking in! Combine that with constant hiss (that I thought was from the turbo) and a rougher run from when new, and I think I know the problem!
it's normal to find less than trained 6.0 mechanics at many dealers....
This is NOT a knock on the techs - this is a complex engine and the dealers have not stepped up to the plate to get their staff trained...
He is experiencing the same trouble I had. They diagnosed it as normal of course, so I cranked the truck and got me a creeper and found a crack in the Y pipe after I rolled under the car! I WAS (SNIP) As a matter of fact, Ray Charles coulda seen this problem!!!!
Is this issue with the cracked Y pipes resolved on the new trucks? Did Ford make a change/improvement or do they just replace the cracked ones with the same old part?
SB45 thanks for the pics.
I'm confused about needing a mirror to see cracks on a component that is on top of the motor though at the rear up on the firewall right?
I've followed the whole exhaust smell-cracked Y pipe debacle for a long time so why can't i climb on top of the motor to find it?
Thanks.