This is my first post and I usually just lurk around to find all my answers, but this one has me stumped. I apologize in advance for the long first post. I also have this cross posted on ps.org.

Vehicle: 2005 F350 6.0 with around 110k Miles. I just recently performed an Oil Change and did Fuel filters at the same time within the last 1k miles. I do Oil Analysis at ever oil change and aluminum levels have been climbing but Blackstone Labs didn’t see a concern at this time. There’s no coolant in the oil and flashpoint and fuel % were OK.

It all started with a P0299 code that I was looking to correct after a while of needing attention. Other than that, the truck runs like a top with no other codes. I managed to pull the turbo out, take it apart and recondition it following all the guides and videos I found on the internet and these forms. After reconditioning, I opened the inspection port on the valve and checked that the vanes where functioning as they should and all was good there. I put everything back in the truck, replacing the orings that came with the turbo mounting kit and installed the updated oil supply tube after installation of the turbo. I buttoned everything up, connected all the plugs and went to fire her up and it would crank and not start. It didn’t even try to start or run at all.

I hooked up my AutoEnginuity (AE) Scan Tool to check the vitals:

• I have Low Pressure Oil indicated on the instrument cluster
• Injector Clatter is Normal
• Fuel Pump is buzzing
• FICM: 12V @ 47 Volts
• FICM Logic: 1
• ICP Voltage: ~.25
• ICP: Max 400 PSI
• IPR: Goes from the 14.8 at KOEO immediately to 85%

Ed from FICMrepair just rebuilt my FICM and I’ve confirmed that to not be the issue. The truck has brand new batteries and a new DC Power Alternator with the Big 3 upgrade.

So I thought I had an issue with the IPR as I could have very well got some junk in the system when installing the turbo drain line back in. I pulled the IPR, and the screen had zero defects, so I replaced the screen and orings anyway and reinstalled back into the truck. The truck would still only crank and not start.

I then pulled the ICP and hooked up shop air to the system, opened the Oil Fill Tube and the vent line on the driver’s side valve cover was open since the air intake is all removed. When pressurizing the system to 100+ PSI, you could hear a hissing/gurgle from the Oil Fill Tube.

I tried a KOEO and listened to the hissing/gurgle and it had stopped. I also commanded the IPR to 100% via AE for a short duration and there was still no hissing/gurgle noise. I pulled the keys, and the hissing/gurgle noise came back.

This is currently where I’m at in this whole ordeal.

This is not my everyday vehicle so nothing is a 911 as of yet although I really want my truck back up and running. I’m open to ideas on what I should check out next to pinpoint my issue or if someone thinks I’ve overlooked something simple, please call me out on it.

So here are some questions I have:

1. Is it possible that one of the orings or gaskets that I installed could have been nicked when reinstalling the turbo and would cause a leak in the High Pressure Leak?
2. Is it possibly when I was wrestling the turbo in or out that I could have come in contact with something that was jarred loose to cause a crank no start condition?
3. Any specific place I should be listening for the leak to isolate a particular failure?

Any help or advice is definitely appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Should have been no issues with a simple Turbo R&R used you disconnected several connectors or caused a vref wire to chaf messing with all other sensors down the line.

Got fuel pressure?

Josh

 

Haven't physically checked the fuel pressure but my pump in humming and I can feel it "working". I guess the real test would be to see if the cup fills up when the key is on. Would symptoms of no fuel pressure result in low ICP readings or result in an air leak by any chance?

I went through all the relays and fuses including ones for the fuel pump and all was good there. I checked for chafing in the "usual" areas but nothing to cause concern and also moved the wire looms around to see if it would magically start because of it. No dice.

 

It may just be coincidence who knows.

Dumb question as I am not to sure about the readings you posted since I don't know much about AE-but did some way or some how the IPR come unplugged? It's right there and could easily happen.

Doing a turbo R&R does not have an effect on HPO as far as I know

 

You know, I thought of that same exact thing and was hopeful that would be the culprit since I was messing around back there with the exhaust band around the exhaust inlet on the turbo.

Unfortunately it was completely plugged in and AE was reading voltage on the IPR and it was running at 85%. I've since taken the IPR completely out and there was no damage to the screen at all and the valve seemed to be functioning just fine with the correct resistance across the terminals. I replaced the IPR screen and orings for good measure and tried again with no luck. Then went to the Air Leak test where I heard a leak and when commanding the IPR, the noise stopped. That's where I'm current stuck.

 

If you heard air then there is a leak...

Could be the STC fitting, or stand pipes/dummy plugs....any idea where you heard air from?

 

You're going to hear a leak until the IPR is commanded closed. That's the reason for commanding it closed, otherwise air is exhausting out the IPR bleed port.

Josh

 

So hearing a leak when shop air is hooked up is a normal condition? I guess I was under the impression that I shouldn't hear any leak at all. Are you suggesting the IPR is not functioning correctly?

 

I heard the air coming from the Oil Fill Tube with the key off. When I turned the key on there was no more leaking air sound. There was also no more air leak when I commanded the IPR to 100% with AE.

 

Yes it will leak unless the IPR is commanded on.

Also, the injectors will exhaust air past the spools until KOEO which energizes the coils closed.

If you have no air leak with IPR commanded 85-100% and KOEO you have an issue elsewhere.

Josh

 

OK, so that's encouraging.

Next step... new IPR Valve? Or do you suggest testing something else in the system?

Would a Bad IPR Valve read 85% when cranking and only allow 400 psi to build?

 

You're not using a Motorcraft filter with a NAPA oil filter cap are you?

Josh

 

Negative. I'm using the stock filter cap and I always use a stock Motorcraft filter element.

 

I decided to run another Air Test and command the IPR to see if I could hear air leaking from the oil filter housing to see if my HPOP is the culprit.

I hooked up the shop air with 150 psi and here the hiss as I guess I should. I hook up AutoEnginuity and turn the key on, I still hear the hiss from the oil fill tube, then I command the IPR to 100%, and I still here the hiss. From everything I've read/watched/listened to, that screams a bad IPR.

This is the exact opposite thing that happened to me the other night. When I had shop air hooked up and turned the key, the hissing stopped and stayed stopped even when I commanded the IPR to 100% then when bringing the IPR to 0% it came back. Maybe when I took the IPR out and cleaned it really well with brake cleaner to change the screen it worked for a split second, just to spite me and keep me up at night thinking I'm one of the "rare" individuals to replace a HPOP in a 2005+ rig.

Thoughts?

 

Brake cleaner is pretty harsh and it can cause problems with the valve actuator electronics if it gets past the seals (and it is bad about degrading seals).