Looking for information on my 1965 F100. Spoke to some mechanics but they only give me a best guess.

I have an inline 6 cylinder. 4 speed on the floor. Would like to find out how I can tell if it is a 231 cid or 300 cid. Probably something to do with the VIN but I don't know the VIN meanings to tell which size 6 cylinder I have.

And would both engines be a 5 quart engine oil capacity?

The engine has about 120K on it, unless it has rolled the speedometer over twice, and that could be possible. Still runs OK, but the acceleration has a dead spot shifting from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th. I can't remember the last time I used 1st gear. It's geared so low that it's really only suitable for pulling out tree stumps. So I always start out in 2nd gear, which is also pretty low gearing.

Any recommendations on a replacement engine with an automatic instead of the 4 speed? Wondering what all that would entail. New engine, new transmission, and new transaxle?

Well, if anyone has a similar truck and know any of these answers about telling engine size and oil capacity, and recommends for engines, I'd really appreciate your help. thanks
Gene

 

The engine code is in the VIN(warranty number on LH door) The code will be the 4th character in it...J=240,T=170 c.i., trans code would be on tag also...F=warner t-98or T-18, N=NP435(granny low) chances are its a 240 with a NP trans....a super tough unit....a genuine stump puller...mine has been used for that.
Basicly its a 3 spd with granny low...warner trans too....easy way to tell w/o looking at tag, is where the reverse is....over right and up is warner unit. Over right and back to seat is NP 435....its a good truck...tough as nails....the motor is a 5 quart motor.

Hope this helps and welcome to FTE, cs65

 

Gene...as to changing to an auto would be quite alot....changing column assy and brake/clutch pedal under dash assy....the engine....there are a number of kits out there if you wanna update to a newer motor, if you wanted to go to a 352, would be easy as the motor stands bolt to the frame. Automatic trans would be fairly easy...biggest thing to look for is if the yoke is a bolt on flange or a slip yoke. Chances are you got a bolt on type flange. if trans is a bolt on flange, only thing I can think of that would/could be diefferent is the length....note the wheelbase of yours vs what you get one from if you do. tranny crossmember I THINK would be same with an auto from the era(cruisamatic) later trans, Im not sure of, but am sure others will chime in and fill in the gaps. if going from a 6 to 8, if you do, radiator would be different as hose connections are different...

If it were me, Id redo the motor as 6's are fairly inexpensive to go thru not to mention fuel mileage....since its a 1/2 ton, my guess is its a ford rear end(bolt in pumpkin offset or so it looks like)....ck door code for rear....



Hope this helps, cs65

 

hello CS65
Thanks for the info. and the advice on engine swapping vs 6 cyl fix up. My reverse is up and to the right, so must be a warner. But now I'm confused on the engine displacement. Can't remember what website I visited, but it sounded reliable and said that the 65 inline 6 cycliners came in two sizes; one was a 231 ci (I believe is what the website said), and the other was a 300 ci (which is a displacement I've heard from some mechanics I've asked). And thanks for confirming the 5 quart oil capacity. I sort of thought that was a standard size capacity for almost all Ford truck engines of that time period. Sounds like the swapping out of the engine, trans, and differential is a big job, and costly no doubt. Just wish there was a way to address the problem of the acceleration dead spot when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th. It really makes driving this beast a herky jerky ordeal. No power steering or power brakes. The brakes I don't mind, but no power steering makes it a helluva job to parallel park. I don't even try any more. If I can't find an end place in a line, I don't ever try to squeeze in between two parked cars. Just impossible.

Well, if you've got any other ideas on the engine displacement size, I'll go ahead and check out my VIN against your information. Anything on the motor block that might tell me what size I've got?

Gene

 

Had same setup on my 65. Drove while decided whether interested in upgrades. Had over 250,000 mi. on the 300 before needed overhaul. Meantime, researched see what was involved, tried to obtain parts before hand to shorten down time. Problem is when break the truck down that far get the urge to restore. Need to refrain if don't want truck out of commission couple years. When 300 needed overhaul swapped for 70 torino 302 and kept the T18. Went with the p/s upgrade and by keeping the T18 only had to shorten the steering shaft couple inches, the column remains the same. Imagine if went w/ auto on floor same would be true. As other members have mentioned you can also go with the column upgrades if decide to go w/ auto. May want to review the 'swap engine' forum see what other members have done. Got great deal of help from other members, there is a wherehouse of info in the FTE forum. Wish had discovered sooner. Lot of knowledgeable and helpful members. Am still learning. If get chance post your vin.

good luck,
dave

 

Hi Gene, Welcome to our porch First thing ya gotta stop hanging out where you get bad info. Anything that you need to know about your truck can be obtained here.

The 240 I6 was the most installed 6 in the trucks that year. I converted to auto with my truck. It's not that hard. Should you be wanting a swap like that you might want to include an engine tranny combo, like a 302 auto overdrive.

a couple coppers

John

 

Hi Gene

I wish I could help you out more. Tires can help the steering They made a major difference in mine. I was talking to another 65 owner at Hot August Nights in Reno Friday. He put a 1972 powersteering grear box in his 65 it was a direct bolt on. the hard part is finding the power steering bracket for either a 240 or a 300. The F100 came stock with a 7.00 X 15 this tire runs about 85 dollars each and can be found in traction or highway. Makes a big difference in the steering. I hope this helps some.

 

Gene,
You might want to check your kingpins, if they are bad they can make it harder to turn the wheels. Put it up on a rack or on blocks and see how hard it is to make the wheels turn from side to side by pushing them with your hands. If it is hard to make them turn, chances are your kingpins need to be changed.

 

Gino...as to ID of the engine...if you get lucky and its original motor and hasnt been apart, there should be a metal tag....look on steering box...would be same size. The usual locations I have found them are the coil brkt to intake bolt, the dipstick to front of block bolt.

I found the one for my 65...its got the extra gauges...was originally bent to do dual duty as wire retainer for the oil sender wires....

Does carb have a tag on it ???




Hope this helps more...cs65

 

Probly the 240 engine. If it has original 1 bbl Autolite 1101 carb, then don't fault the engine for its poor performance till you put a better carb on it, such as a small Holley 4 bbl, or a Carter YF. I have the same engine, tranny and probably the same rear. My performance is very acceptable at this point, gets up to 70 nice a quick. I am running pretty small tires, so I also dropped the rear ratio to 3.25. 205/75/r15 tires on stock rims FYI

I also have manual steering. I went through the whole steering, including a rebuilt box from Partsamerica for $129.95 (a real steal!!) and I find the steering is quite acceptable. But old stuff and large tires will affect your performance greatly.

Since the drivetrain in a 65 (at least one with twin Ibeam) is essentially identical until 1978, there are lots of later engine/tranny combos that are very easy to drop in. I have heard a lot of positive thoughts about a 460 with a auto tranny. Would be very cool, but might snap your 28 spline rear axels.

 

I would stick with the 6 cylinder. Especially if it is a 2 wheel drive. The amount of torque and the longevity of a 6 cylinder is unsurpassed. On that old of a truck I would keep everything as stock as possible. Rebuild the motor and the tranny but I would not swap it. Just my opinion. I have seen several six cylinders out do v8's,quiote impressive I must say. If you want longevity, reliability, nostalgia and low end torque stick with what you have. Not sure what that is but I am sure that the vin codes and the numbers on the motor and tranny can tell you.

 

My opinion.........
I am in the process of modernizing my 65. I now have a 460 with a mild cam, Holly street avenger on an edelbrock, hei dist, and a C6 auto. Power steering, power disc brakes from a 75, and vintage air. From the outside it looks stock, right now it is being repainted the original green-blue and off white. I will use it everyday, and in Houston the AC is a must. While there is nothing wrong with Ford 6's, I like V8's.
No matter what you choose, they are great trucks with a little care and a lot of work.