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Check these pics out and let me know what you think about this rust. Can it be fixed without replacing the whole cab which is in really good shape (besides roof). I dont care if its perfect, just want it to look decent.
i once did a vechile that was rusted like that, fixed it once and it rusted again in just 2 years. i neglected to remove all the rust inside the areas and all the moisture damage inside the hidden areas. i did it all over again and then filled the little cubby holes and inside areas with expansion foam. this locked up it tight, been about 7 years since then and i saw it the other day (sold it when done ) and it looks as good as ever. it just takes time to do it right and limit the use of bondo. remember it is not a hole filler.
It would most likely be eaiser to cut off the cab top and replace with a good top from the scrap yard IF any are available in your area. Usually with roof leaks like that, the floors and cab corners will likely have some damage. Good Luck!
Went and looked at 4 trucks (cabs) and everyone wanted $300-$400 for them. Since I have a seperated shoulder and torn rotator cuff I cant do any of the work myself.I have a buddy who will do the swap for $400. Got to figure a few $100 more for rubber and other parts.....were up at $1000.
I would have to figure that a decent body shop could remedy this for much less seeing that 95% of the rust is in the roof. I have looked at the cab corners and other suspect areas and they look pretty good.
Check the pics and tell me if I am off base here. Thanks for the input.
Take a look at the last post of this thread -- theres an EBAY link to a good looking CA truck for cheap. Don't know if its near you or not but for the $$$ and no rust.
Well I am left completely frustrated. Cabs are pricing out too much. The rust is appears to be too much to fix. Even just replacing the roof might be unwise because the rust goes down to the window, under the crome trim.
I guess I just made a bad choice in buying this truck. I have sooooo many project ideas that I want to explore but this appears to put a serious halt to all of it.
A few estimates from body shops said it would cost thousands of $$$ to fix it and the truck just isnt worth it. Cant find anyone to do it on the side.
To top it off I just saw a 70 F100 that was restored to immaculate condition. 360, AT, AC, Power window mod, flawless body and paint, pristine interior with similar mods that I wanted to do. $3300 bux. I paid $800 for mine. $700 in rims and tires. $200 in new radiator and hoses. New brakes including new drums $150. New battery and cables $100. New exaust $400. All told $2500. I bought a bunch of audio gear. Was looking to do bucket seats and was planning a trick audio install which is my specialty. $%^&#@!
Dead in tracks because of this rust issue. I hate this truck now.
To top it off my wife wanted to take it for a ride to the dunp and had a hard time starting it. She figured it was out of gas (low gauge) and "primed the carb" and added gas to tank. Before starting she pumped the crap out of it and I guess gas overflowed onto the intake and when she started it, it caught fire. Burned all the wires and coil. $&%#$&!
WilliamPC, take a break from it and step back a bit. I'm not telling you to not cut your losses, I'm just telling you I don't think you're in the right frame of mind right now to decide. You have invested alot, I understand that. Unfortunately in it's current condition it would be worth alot less than what you have into it.
Here's my suggestion: Get yourself healed, shoulder wise and forget about the truck for awhile. Then, if you decide to keep it and go for it again, I'd look for a donor rig to get a cab from. I've seen these trucks go for less than $200 bucks before with good cabs. Take your time on the search. So what if you drive it with a little rust for a year or so. I drove mine (actually still am driving it) for 1.5years before I found a donor truck at the price I wanted. I found the search a challenge and enjoyed the hunt (actually it felt weird to not look for trucks once I got mine!). I took the parts I wanted, then parted out the rest and broke even!
As for the engine fire, get a new coil and replace the wires, no biggie there. Maybe you need some carb work, again, no biggie.
Keep your chin up man and keep us posted. We are here to help, so don't be afraid to post questions. Either way you go, good luck!
Perhaps you can find another truck and transfer all your new parts to it.
This is what I ended up doing. I had even worse rust that was hidden by bondo on my 69. I bought another complete running 67 and built one nice truck out of the parts. it's expensive, but you migt some other pieces you are looking for, and it's easier to move a rolling/running truck!
I'm getting close to where I wanted to be when this all started about 3 years ago. But, I've got a small fortune invested and a lot of my time! I've just recently got to where I can legally drive and use my truck!
Don't pay $400 for a freakin' cab. I hate junkyard ****** that think their old junk is worth gold. I ALWAYS go into known junkyards with the attitude that I'm the buyer who is giving them money. So if they quote me an outrageous price I just give them the "Well, look, I'll give you 100 train riding dollars to get rid of this thing or you can want $400 all you want and probably NEVER get rid of it while it sits and rusts even more." Always works for me, even if we dicker between prices.
They see me rollin' up in my dads Super Duty and automatically assume that I have money, really I'm an 18year old with a project on a budget.
All of these posts are good ideas. If you can get a cab for cheap then do it, but if not, then take it to a good body shop and see what they got up their sleeves. But that is a lot of rust.
Oh yeah, If you decide to go 'trimless' on your truck (like lots do)... I'm in desperate need of a used peice of '67-69 shortbox mid 1-1/4" trim, that you have!