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I have a feeling that there is something sub-par with my water pump. I think I'm going to replace that component sooner than I planned, just in case. Shouldn't be that expensive to do. The fins on the radiator...I'll check that out too. Water pump in general, and the backing plate? Guess I'll have to wait until I disassemble the pump to see what gives, and if the new one has a backing. "Cavitating"...I understand what you mean...reminds of watching the screws of a Coast Guard cutter pop out of the water when we made our approach to land our helicopter (HH-65A) aboard ship at night...the ship guys were notorious for mid-guessing their sea recovery conditions... to see that big screw popping out of the water at night (cavitating), and in high seas...well, it was a little disconcerting. Thanks for the flash-back guys; I needed that. 8-!
Even outboard motors have a Impeller in them to cool the heads. If the impeller wears those stainless backing plate's water will push under it and cause "Cavitation" One reason those impeller's fit so tight in there. Thats why they shot water 15 feet in the air when there good.
You can tell if you got Cavition by taking the Radiator cap off. Once the thermostat opens see if your get good water return flow. If it is slow and weak it's a cheap pump.
I see the Aerospatiale <NOBR>HH-65A</NOBR> <NOBR></NOBR><NOBR>'Dolphin'</NOBR> every day where I live. They build them half mile down the road from me. Who would think the French could build a Rotory wing that works.
You say you see the HH-65A/B every day? I assume you either live in France, E-City, NC, or wherever American Eurocopter is located these days. Good machine. Thanks for the help on the water pump analysis too. My 95 is doing okay these days. I still think the engine compartment could be cooler, somehow. I'm experimenting with air scoops for highway driving. Forgot who's idea it was (based on RV spin-off), but it makes sense to me. Thanks again! Tim
I live in Grand Prairie Texas, It about 10 miles West of Dallas.
They have a Building about 3 blocks down the road next to the Airport. What is funny is Lockheed Martin Fire Control and Missle Systems is Across the street from me.
I just installed two air scoops to increase air flow under the hood. Big difference. Was told many RV have them to help cool the engine and that you could try to modify one for the aerostar, or just build one out of metal dryer venting. I did the later by cutting two small squares in the rubber air foil under the bumper and using the dryer venting to carry the air flow under the frount swaybar and up into the engine compartment. each side is about 1.5 feet long. You can now open the hood without the blast furnace and the A/C seems to be more effective. I did this as my 95 aerostar died on long hill in 38+ degree heat with wife, two kids and dog for 3 hours. The engine temp gauge never got too high and it would idle on side of road, but would die after 30sec of driving up hill ( the AC would not even blow cold and the engine compartment was soooo hot) Never had the problem before and with new modifications, hope to never have it again.
I would love to see pictures of our air scoops! Could you possible post them somewhere and post the link on this thread?
2. Are the radiator fins plugged with bugs and leaves? That will make a difference.
3. When you drain the radiator, note the time to fill it up. If the radiator fills up quickly and then burps down slowly before you can pur more in = plugged radiator.
There's my two cents, hope it helps someone!
well those two right there are probably my problem(s).
also, any one else notice that alot of high rpm driving raises the temp? i can't help but wonder if the tranny cooler lines are effecting the coolant's temp
well those two right there are probably my problem(s).
also, any one else notice that alot of high rpm driving raises the temp? i can't help but wonder if the tranny cooler lines are effecting the coolant's temp
If it's the fins getting clogged with leaves and bugs, you can easily clean that out with a vacuum cleaner. If the radiator core is clogged, you can only replace it.
If the engine overheats just from high rpm running, I am guessing that it is one of the above. Usually, the engine temp goes up from heavy loads, such a going up a long steep hill, or towing, or both. The stock transmission cooler can not affect the engine cooler that much.