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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 09:25 AM
  #31  
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RockyMtnF250
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From: Western Slope, Colorado
The way I looked at it was that my stamped steel rockers were trashed, my machinist was going to charge me $110 for some decent stock rockers. The Ford Motor Sport pedestal roller tip, needle-bearing fulcrum, bolt on rockers were $235 shipped to my door. What did I get for the price differential of $125? Less wear on my rebuilt and ported heads and with the money I put in to these that’s a big factor. More HP, 15 more? Maybe not but still some increase and I don’t think this was a big price to pay. And then there is that cool factor but I guess I could of spent the money on ground effect lighting. :')
 
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #32  
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battered_bronco
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From: not mass
well i picked up a set(16) of stock rockers on ebay for 20 good for emergencies and give aways
horsepowerwizard doesn't even have the 400 listed on their web site BAAAH forgoten again
and i have already dealt with mad dog and alex and dennis well most of my parts came from them sooo
guess i will stick with maddog i suppose
 
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 04:53 PM
  #33  
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wow!!! adjusting the valves with the engine running! torqe1st, you must have really fast hands and aren't bothered by oil in the eye!

as an update, we are all pontificating on a moot point because my RF tire just started showing metal and i had to shell out a cool $170 for a new one. wasn't planning that into the budget. man, these 16.5" wheels are rough on the wallet!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 05:08 PM
  #34  
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Actually, adjusting valves with the engine running is easy except for the oil running over the top of the heads onto the exhaust, -hence the cut down valve covers. I had to adjust the valves on my 390 every few months to keep the noise down and performance up.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #35  
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bootie
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i'm just not going to comment on people who adjust valves with the motor going -turn the motor to the opposite cylinder rocking and adjust the one thats firing - nice and easy - no mess
 
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 11:20 PM
  #36  
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Adjusting the valves on a hot engine while it was idling was the recommended procedure for adjusting the valves right out of the book and it is very easy to do. Most people use the cold adjustment method but that is not very accurate.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 12:33 AM
  #37  
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what i do and its worked for me the entire time i've worked as amechanic is i warm the engine up first switch it off then do my adjustments - never had tight tappets or noisy ones yet
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 02:32 AM
  #38  
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Maybe they just did things a little different in the old days. That was the procedure for the FE with solid lifters. I didn't write the book. It seemed strange to me also but it was easy and accurate. Maybe you just haven't been a mechanic long enuf, or possibly you just haven't heard of every procedure yet. -Consider it...
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 04:00 AM
  #39  
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comon mate thats a bit harsh - maybe we just do things differently in my part of the world so i'll stick to my method and you can stick to yours
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 04:40 AM
  #40  
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You were the one that questioned my "sanity" as it was. I just did that engine by the book and it would turn 9000 rpm for me, seemed to work good. I use the warm engine method on other vehicles and even the cold engine method on others. Whatever the manufacturer called for. The 390 engine with solid lifters called for a 30 minute minimum warmup to operating temp and then adjust the valves when the engine was idling. As I said b4 it seemed strange but it was easy to do and did not require fast hands at all. The wrenches just wiggle a little in your hands. I am sure many engine applications call for the same procedure. I watched a guy do it on a marine engine once. No big deal for an experienced mechanic.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 05:10 AM
  #41  
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don't get me wrong i have seen it done i just don't like the oil that goes everywhere and i have seen books that tell you to do it idling. - sure your tappet covers are a good idea and i can't be fanged to get in an arguement over this if it works for you thats all good - nothing ventured nothing gained
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 06:46 AM
  #42  
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I never had any problem with oil going all over except running over the edge of the head in that back corner. The first time I adjusted the valves it made a mess and I lost several quarts of oil. The 1" (25mm) lip on the valve covers fixed that problem. I ran a set of rubber gaskets on my valve covers and the cut-aways and could swap them quickly. I got a little oil on the end of my wrench and feeler gage only. I try to adjust the valves on engines according to the OEM directions. If you don't you are playing a guessing game. I figured that the OEMs have their reasons for specific procedures and I try not to second guess them to much.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 02:46 PM
  #43  
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Back in the 70's when I worked in a speed shop we sold clips that would go on the top of the rockers so the oil would hit the clip and go straight back sown on the top of the head inside the valve cover area. I don't recall how many different cars they were made for but I know all the gadget companies like Mr. Gasket, made them.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 01:15 AM
  #44  
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I have seen those clips in stores, I even had a set. The ones I had were for stamped steel rockers used on stud mount (wobble) rockers. Every time the hole in the rocker lines up with the oil passage in the pushrod those rockers would spit a stream of oil. The 390 had shaft mount rockers. If I remember right the rockers had an oil feed hole from the shaft that lubed and cooled the spring. Without an adequte supply of oil to cool them the valve springs will heat up and fail.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 03:48 PM
  #45  
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when i used to wrench on my old volks bus, the instructions were to do the valves in the morning with the engine COLD. is that just a volksie thing?
 
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