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does anyone know if you are to "dial-in / set" the voltage to a new throttle sensor? I have a 94 aerostar and got code 53 on her for the tps voltage being too high. going to replace but wondering if I need to set it. I remember that a tech tip for my 89 mustang was to set the tps voltage to .96 - .99 for best results. (key o engine off). is this a good tip for other fords?? thanks
The older TPS needed to be positioned so they'd *know* where they were in the butterfly travel. The newer ones, like your's, just need to be bolted in place. If you see small ovalish holes where the mounting screws go, all bets are off, and you probably need to set it. THe last one I did, on an '87, was fixed in place with no adjustment, where the '84 and '85 needed to be set... these were not A*'s, but FoMoCo products with EEC-IV.
tom
don't want to confuse the issue at hand but when I did the mustang tps, I had to open the holes in the sensor a bit to get the .96-.99 reading (key on engine off). the mustang has had no problems. the aerostar sensor is a bit different in that it has brass inserts for the mounting holes and they are not oval, the mustang tps was all plastic and easily opened. should this lead me to believe that not much adjustment is possible / required for the aerostar?. I am willing to oval them if necessary but I am not sure on the need to "dial it in" or not?? thanks
thanks for the info / help. well I have started doing the trial and error thing. put the old / original sensor on the van and checked voltage. it is in the mid to low .8 range. then put the new sensor on and it is in the high .7 to low .8 range. niether one is anywhere close to the .9 area. even with a good twist they will not make it (turning the sensor clockwise raises voltage). I am going to open up the holes in the old sensor and dial it to the .9 range. then run the van and see how it runs and if the code 53 is still present. I am still confused on all this of course. it seems strange also that the new and old sensor would be almost .08 different in readings at the widest range. this is not working anything like my 89 mustang or a 95 F250 truck my dad has. both of those had the same type of sensor.
Maybe you need to put a new battery in your multimeter. Some of them get a little loose in their voltage readings when they are hungry for a new battery.
Actually, I'd put the new sensor in, and see if code 53 went away. The computer just wants to know what idle V is and what WOT V is, and should adjust for minor variation in tolerance.
tom
Last edited by tomw; Jul 29, 2004 at 07:44 AM.
Reason: added thought
well here is the latest. I got a good DC volt meter and set-up the sensor to read about .97 with key on engine off. I used my scanner to erase all codes (koeo and koer). then I rechecked volts and the sensor reads .97 closed and 4.50 at "WOT". I am now going to drive her some and recheck for codes and sensor voltages. just to pass on the info, all of this started because I could feel a performance drop in the van. went through all the tune-up, filters, stuff, etc.. and then checked the EEC-IV and found the code 53 for throttle sensor voltage too high. thanks
"dialed in" old sensor and code 53 is still there. replaced sensor, cleared all codes, disconnected battery for several minutes and reran test - code 53 is there? checked voltages and all fall within service manual limits. I think something else is wrong. maybe the processor or 60 pin connector.?? van performance is still off and according to the plugs, she looks to be running a little lean. looks like the Ford dealership will maybe have to help me. ??
The only other thing I can suggest is to check the voltage at the 60 pin computer connector. It sounds like there might be a short somewhere that is giving the tps pin a full 5V from reference voltage.
thanks for the info. the 60 pin connector is my next area for inspection. hopefully I can find something there. oh and by the way I was thinking last night about all of this and it occured to me that all of this started because I could feel poor performance. not because my check engine light came on. wouldn't the check engine light come on if my TPS was bad and code 53 was accurate?? thanks
With the older EEC-IV systems, I'm not sure which codes turn on the light and which ones don't. I haven't had the check engine light working until just recently, and the only time it has been on was when I unplugged the O2 sensor for a test.
well I am not sure what I did or have done but the code is gone. I still need to drive and check performance. I cleaned all the electrical connectors for the TPS and the 60 pin (especially pin 47 which is the TPS one ?) . I cleared the KOER codes and disconnected the battery for 10 minutes. reconnected and double checked everything and the computer only sent a pass code. could be a short somewhere and all the messing around with stuff made it connect. not really sure. here's hoping that my diligence has payed off... thanks for all the support.