I need the procedure to replace my Clutch/Pressure plate in my 84 F250 w/4.9L 300ci.

Are there any "How To's" On-Line anywhere or could someone PLEASE tell me the proper procedure ??

BTW, I'll be doing this in my driveway. NOT on a lift. No transmission jack available, but I do have a nice 3-Ton jack to use.

MUCH appreciated!

 

1- Get it up on jackstands as high as possible.
2 - Remove the driveshaft.
3 - Plug the output shaft, or drain all of the fluid before removing the driveshaft. If not, then big stinky mess happens.
4 - Remove the shift lever.
5 - remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
6 - support the rear of the engine.
7 - remove the speedometer cable from the transmission.
8 - support the transmission.
9 - remove the transmission crossmember.
10 - get a hernia and curse like mad when that transmission comes out.
I may have left some steps out, but this'll give you an idea.
Honestly, I've done these before, and it is a *itch without a lift. If you've got a light weight transmission, then you'll probably be OK. But if you've got one of those NP ball-buster transmissions, you may want to rent yourself a transmission jack, or buy the part that fits on your floor jack to convert it to a transmission jack. Your body will thank you. Oh yeah, get at least one or two people to help you, and a good manual too. Read the manual several times before starting. P.S. If it's 4WD then you can add some more steps and cursing in there.

 

Thank you VERY MUCH!!!

 

One guy told me it's possible to "slide" the transmission back a few inches to allow enough room to install the clutch/pressure plate. He said drop the driveshaft, remove the bellhousing bolts, loosen the bolts on the Crossmember and then slide the tranny backwards a few inches. He showed me the metal plate around the shifter that needs to be removed to allow access to the tranny.

Has anyone heard of or tried this procedure for a clutch/pressure plated R&R ??

 

I wouldn't do a clutch job with the transmission just slid back. you MIGHT get enough room to get the tools in to unbolt and bolt in the new clutch, but that truck will be dirty and greasy, and your hands and tools will be the same way very soon.

the flywheel/disk/pressure plate will need to be CLEAN when it is assembled (brake cleaner is your friend here). If there is grease on the friction surfaces the cluch will most likely chatter.

doing it in a few inches with the trans slid back sounds like alot more work/frustation. You still have the transmission unbolted and 1/2 the job of removing it is allready done. Your going to need that trans slid back about 6" minimum

 

you can generally rent a tranny jack from local rental place. Another possibilty is the trans conversion for floor jacks. I made my own, where I was working had all kinds of fabrication equipment, so it was easy, but you can still do it as well. Basically, I made a cradle of sorts to hold the trans from tipping or falling off. It simply replaced the lift pad on the floor jack, and can be pulled of just as easily.

 

Which bolts are these ?? Or which side of the bellhousing should be removed ??

 

The bolts are located around the bellhousing. They screw into the block, meaning that they are visible when looking at the back of the engine. I don't remember how many there are, but there should be at least 5. The only ones that are a bear to get out are usually the ones up top close to the firewall. But that depends on how tight the engine is to the firewall, some are, some aren't. If the engine is a greasy mess, you might have to look very closely for the upper bolts, because they have a tendency to catch a lot of grease and blend in with the bellhousing.

 

if you dont want to pull the tranni you can allways pull the motor to change the clutch i also have no trans jack or a lift all i have is a barn with a hoist

 

# 5 should read un bolt the transmission from the bell-housing. You are far better to remove the tranny from the bell housing first then lower the trans to the ground, slide it out of the way then undo the bellhousing from the engine. Its way too ackward to try do it in one step like you would do with an auto trans. IMHO

 

Excellent idea to me because removing the transmission and transfer case on my truck seems like a nightmare. It shouldn't be difficult to remove a 300 straight six. The wiring is very straightforward and the bolts are all easily accessible.

 

Well....I got hold of a Tranny jack and I'm trying to drop it out from below, but I'm having real difficulty with the Crossmember.

I can seem to wedge out the crossmember from the side braces.

Anyone know how to reach the bolts to remove the Upper braces that secure the Crossmember ??

 

You have two bolts on each side, about 6 inches away from the tranny if you have the tranny supported underneath you can lower the tranny leaving it attatched to the cross member with the two bolts on the rubber mount. The cross member only needs to drop 2 inches before you can slide it and the tranny as a unit towards the rear. I have a 84 F150 with the body off so I can see the bolts looking down. If you feel on each side of the tranny on the cross member you'll feel the nuts. support the tranny and undo those 4 bolts .