Aerostar Ford Aerostar

Rear ABS light

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-21-2004, 12:49 PM
johnswest's Avatar
johnswest
johnswest is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question Rear ABS light

I have a 1996 Aerostar van that has just had the braking system worked on and now the rear ABS light won't go off. My mechanic checked it out and can't see why it is staying on. Any ideas?????
 
  #2  
Old 07-21-2004, 03:17 PM
koalamazed's Avatar
koalamazed
koalamazed is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: northwest
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
my 91 did the same thing


I took a small peice of black electrical tape and covered the light on the dash. it never bothered me again!

(I dont know why it wouldnt go off either!)
 
  #3  
Old 07-21-2004, 03:28 PM
johnswest's Avatar
johnswest
johnswest is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rear ABS light

My check engine light did the same thing. Ran it for years with it on and without any problems-- then had to have it changed because it burnt out and needed to work to pass smog. Oh yeah it's back on.

The only reason I'm looking into fixing them is because my daughter will be taking her driving test and she can't use the car if the lights are on....

Thanks

Originally Posted by koalamazed
my 91 did the same thing


I took a small peice of black electrical tape and covered the light on the dash. it never bothered me again!

(I dont know why it wouldnt go off either!)
 
  #4  
Old 07-21-2004, 03:44 PM
Muffinman's Avatar
Muffinman
Muffinman is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
The reason I beat is they Pushed the Calipers back in without opening the bleed valve. The Pressure and fluid being pushed up will cause the ABS metering rod to stick in the open postion. You will have to do a pressure bleed to get it to come back to Center.

Also yu could have some junk in the valve now that is clogging it up. The Valve is on the front lower part of the Master Cylinder. It will have Two wires going to it. Remove it and blow the orfice opening out with a can of compressed air.
 
  #5  
Old 07-21-2004, 04:05 PM
aerocolorado's Avatar
aerocolorado
aerocolorado is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
As Muffinman stated, recent brake work is usually responsible for generating a pressure differential across the ABS unit. Bleeding usually restores functionality although often it will reset itself after several days of driving.
 
  #6  
Old 07-21-2004, 04:35 PM
johnswest's Avatar
johnswest
johnswest is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks - I will pass the info for the brakes along. How about code P1443 for the evaporative emission control - the mechanic replacing parts, called and asked if the van was running hot or if I had to put coolant in alot lately. It does not run hot and I have put coolant in about 1 month ago. He said a part he replaced had coolant on it and that was not a good thing. Could I have over filled the radiator??

When it comes to the radiator/engine I'm lost. I am planning on 2 road trips in the next 2 weeks one about 1600 miles round trip the other 3000 miles round trip. He seems to think that might not be a good idea. The van has never ran hot or rough and with 170,000 miles on it I still get about 22 mpg (17 city).
 
  #7  
Old 07-21-2004, 10:06 PM
aerocolorado's Avatar
aerocolorado
aerocolorado is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
The evaporative emissions is essentially a passive system - meaning, driving wise, for all intents and purposes it has little effect on vehicle operation. The P1443 code could be something simple like a loose/non-sealing gas cap, a loose cannister vacuum line or more complex such as a non functioning vapor cannister solenoid.

If you have no unexplained coolant loss and the engine temperature is normal, I would say don't worry about taking the trip. Your mileage figure tends to indicate the engine is in good shape. It is hard to say what the mechanic found or why he thought there was coolant present. I would worry more about such things as the condition of the serpentine belt, transmission fluid level, tires balanced, alignment checked and having the A/C unit in good operating condition before taking off.

As an afterthought, even if the "Rear Antilock" light is on, you still retain normal braking in both the front and rear system - just as cars/trucks always had before the advent of anti-lock brakes. The light just means the anti-lock system is not activated.

Good luck on the trip!
 
  #8  
Old 07-22-2004, 11:02 PM
Boojie_007's Avatar
Boojie_007
Boojie_007 is offline
New User
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
my 93 had the rear ABS light on for the longest time too. Then my speedo went out. and when I replaced the speed sender on the top of the rear Dif. it went out. Now my ABS works, and I hate it.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rudiak
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
04-11-2014 08:13 PM
JReagan90
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
12-15-2012 10:47 AM
fairlaniac
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
1
12-12-2011 06:37 AM
dangerranger10
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
12
08-21-2011 08:45 PM
bronco5.8
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
1
08-13-2004 10:27 AM



Quick Reply: Rear ABS light



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:00 PM.