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I have a 1998 Mazda B-3000 4x4 5spd Manual. I was wondering if anyone with a 3.0 manual Ranger or B-3000 Manual tell me how much it cost them to replace the clutch? I just wanna get an idea of the price ranges before I have it taken in.
On my 98 4x4, I had the shop replace the clutch, resurface the flywheel, replace the slave cylinder and pilot bearing. Get ready for the price.... $860! There's a good amount of work just to get the tranny out. According to my manual the starter even has to come out.
I just did mine myself on a 96 ranger with a 2.3L 4-cyl. It was $220 for the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing/pilot bearing/clutch alignment tool, $24 for the haynes manual, around $20 for resurfacing the flywheel (took off 0.010 of an inch), and $5 for the little tool to remove the hydraulic line. The tool broke on the first use and ruined the fitting on the hydraulic line, which cost $70 to replace and can only be purchased through a Ford dealer. Just so you know what to expect if you do this yourself, it will be suggested to you to replace your slave cylinder while you have the tranny out. Do it! It's another $75 or so, but will save you the hassle I had to go through after I put it all back together and it didn't work. I also replaced the master cylinder, which will cost around $75 as well. I don't think I needed to replace this, but I was still not getting any clutch action after replacing the slave so I didn't know what to do. And after replacing it, it still wouldn't work. The problem is, these things are VERY hard to bleed the old fashioned way due to the layout of everything and the nice little bends in the hydraulic line that are great for trapping air. I got mine bled out finally by working the line around so that any trapped air could go up. Then I removed the master cylinder from the firewall, removed the spring clip that holds it together, pulled out the piston, lowered the body so that fluid went to the top, and put the piston back in. I then re-installed it in the firewall, bled it one more time from below, and was off to the races. This bleeding of the master cylinder is better detailed under the sticky in this forum titled technical information, then look for slave cylinder bleeding. The post that has the answer is from guy named Hank, and he really saved me from going off the deep end. Check it out, and good luck. And FYI, my local dealer quoted me $475 parts and labor to change the clutch in 5 hours, but this is for a 2WD 4-banger.
Oh yeah, do NOT do it yourself. My truck was back in the shop over and over after that, they couldn't bleed it properly. It would be fine for a few days, then out of no where I couldn't shift. I finally had them do the master cylinder too, and they had it for 2 full days to get it bled right. The labor is more on the 4x4. Manual says to remove exhaust system, starter, front and rear driveshaft, then remove the transfer case and transmission. Then of course doing all the other work, and putting it all back. I WAS going to do mine to save money, and I'm really glad I decided not to. Didn't want to get stuck halfway through or something...
Also, I think centerforce dual friction clutch is available now for the 98. It costs more, but it's a much stronger clutch, and it's easier to push the pedal to disengage the clutch. Best of both worlds. Just something to think about...
I had the slave cylinder go out, took it to the dealer, and scince the trans was out I bought a new Luk clutch set and had them throw it in there (even though it didn't really need it), it set me back 700 labor (including the price for the cylinder and resurface the flywheel) and the clutch I took them was 250. So it was a bit under a grand.
I would highly recommend having a new slave cylinder installed as well.
Ouch, I'd steer clear of the dealership then
I took mine to a transmission shop. Whatever you do, make sure whoever does the work gives you a warranty. I would have been screwed if the tranny shop didn't. In the end, I got them to install the new master cylinder for free.
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