Junior User
Quote:
I recently went through that with my V10.Originally Posted by High_Horse
I had my mechanic put a deep scan on it and it failed to register, but I was getting the symptoms of a failing coil, usually around the 1450rpm range or as you stated the 35 mph area.
Since it was displaying a multi-cylinder misfire code on my code reader, rather than go through the swapping process with 10 coils, I figured I would take it into my local mechanic, and get it scanned to find out exactly what was going on. He put his Snap-on MT2500 on the rig, but it didn't provide anything more useful than I was getting from my code reader. He suggested that I might want to take it into a Ford dealer and get it scanned there for more info.
So . . with three Fords, and the last one just past the warranty period last month; I figured the time had come for me the face the inevitable: It was time to buy a proper scanner; and especially since I have a motorhome that no one wants to touch. I bought an Autoxray EZ-Scan 6000. It immediately provided the info I needed; stuff that the Snap-on thing failed to provide. The misfire counter showed a high count for cyl #5. Popped on a new coil, and problem solved!
Elder User
hmmm....where can you pick up one of those Autoxray EZ-scan's? Also how big of bucks did you have to shell out?
Junior User
Quote:
I've seen them advertised on the web for $500 for their top of the line (EZ-Scan 6000). Their website is at:Originally Posted by High_Horse
hmmm....where can you pick up one of those Autoxray EZ-scan's? Also how big of bucks did you have to shell out?
http://www.autoxray.com/products.aspx
The 6000 covers just about any OBD I or II vehicle made since about 1982, including 5 different connecting cables, plus a cable to connect to your PC to download data to your computer. They have less expensive models with cover fewer vehicles, and don't include vehicle specific enhanced codes, or computer software and connections. For my needs, I figured that the one that does everything would be the best option, since it doesn't cost all that much more.
Just about every auto parts vendor carries Autoxray products.
Elder User
Thanks SB.....
New User
Hello All,
My 98 F-150 4.6L is having a similar problem. It has a rough idle. If I accelerate off the line like an old lady, it smooths out and seems fine all the way up through 75mph. But if I gun it at all, it coughs and chokes until I back off the accelerator.
The Check Engine light is NOT on. A scanner that I borrowed from Autozone showed no codes. I wouldn't suppose that's the same as running a deep scan.
So I wonder if anybody could explain the Windex coil pack test. I missed that one in the Haynes manual. Plus what do you mean by "applying vaccum" to the EGR valve?
Thanks.
My 98 F-150 4.6L is having a similar problem. It has a rough idle. If I accelerate off the line like an old lady, it smooths out and seems fine all the way up through 75mph. But if I gun it at all, it coughs and chokes until I back off the accelerator.
The Check Engine light is NOT on. A scanner that I borrowed from Autozone showed no codes. I wouldn't suppose that's the same as running a deep scan.
So I wonder if anybody could explain the Windex coil pack test. I missed that one in the Haynes manual. Plus what do you mean by "applying vaccum" to the EGR valve?
Thanks.
Moderator
First I would clean the MAF and possibly replace the fuel filter.
When was the last time that the plugs and wires have been replaced?
A deep scan with a Ford WDS tool will monitor all of the engine functions in real time and will show the data as it happens.
Applying vaccum tothe EGR valve means to either find a manifold vacuum source to hook directly to the EGR valve oy using a hand held vacuum pump to pull vacuum to the EGR valve. This should bog down the idle if it is working properly.
When was the last time that the plugs and wires have been replaced?
A deep scan with a Ford WDS tool will monitor all of the engine functions in real time and will show the data as it happens.
Applying vaccum tothe EGR valve means to either find a manifold vacuum source to hook directly to the EGR valve oy using a hand held vacuum pump to pull vacuum to the EGR valve. This should bog down the idle if it is working properly.
Elder User
Replace the plug wires? What plug wires w/coil packs. Definately agree with the fuel filter change and MAF cleaning. Check the DPFE unit also, that's in the Haynes manual.
The windex will recreate a miss on a failing cop when sprayed on it. So just spray each one with a decent shot and if its bad, it will miss. Don't dowse them and only shoot one at a time.
The windex will recreate a miss on a failing cop when sprayed on it. So just spray each one with a decent shot and if its bad, it will miss. Don't dowse them and only shoot one at a time.
Moderator
I was refering to 98F150CA's question. He has a 98 4.6L so it has plug wires!!
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ExploreElder User
well hot damn, I thought all Ford's after 96 went cop. Just goes to show ya, ignorance indulges knowledge.
New User
Well I finally got a CEL. Weird, I was never so happy to see it.
So I went straight to Autozone and borrowed the scanner again. It says I have a misfire on cylinder 1. Well that I can fix. Actually, so far I simply reseated the plug wire on both ends and it's running much better. I can actually step on the gas, drop a gear, and go from 60 to 80 in an instant. Not yet perfect though. Still a little miss at high RPM. Will replace the wires this weekend. 92K and they are the original wires (except for the one gong to the plug on the right rear of the engine. That wire was the victim of pure frustration while changing the plugs.)
Yes, this 4.6L has two coils packs, four cylinders each. Never actually seen a COP.
Just to provide a little background. Not related to this problem, I've done a bit of routine maintenance over the last six months including fuel filter, sparks plugs (what a bitch), PVC (although I didn't need it), K&N air filter, tranny oil and filter (what a mess), and plenty of engine oil and filter changes. This baby has got to last me.
So I went straight to Autozone and borrowed the scanner again. It says I have a misfire on cylinder 1. Well that I can fix. Actually, so far I simply reseated the plug wire on both ends and it's running much better. I can actually step on the gas, drop a gear, and go from 60 to 80 in an instant. Not yet perfect though. Still a little miss at high RPM. Will replace the wires this weekend. 92K and they are the original wires (except for the one gong to the plug on the right rear of the engine. That wire was the victim of pure frustration while changing the plugs.)
Yes, this 4.6L has two coils packs, four cylinders each. Never actually seen a COP.
Just to provide a little background. Not related to this problem, I've done a bit of routine maintenance over the last six months including fuel filter, sparks plugs (what a bitch), PVC (although I didn't need it), K&N air filter, tranny oil and filter (what a mess), and plenty of engine oil and filter changes. This baby has got to last me.
Elder User
aaahhhhh, I thought they did the changeover at the same time. Nice tid bit to know.
New User
Quote:
can you explain the windex test to me please.?Originally Posted by autocarecenter
Faulty coil pack was the magic answer. We performed the Windex test and found it on the 3rd try. Thanks High_Horse!
New User
Quote:
can you explain the windex test to me please.?Originally Posted by autocarecenter
Faulty coil pack was the magic answer. We performed the Windex test and found it on the 3rd try. Thanks High_Horse!