ok yall the new codes are.....
koeo 67
koer 21 67 75
ive had the 67 before and i know its somethin to do with the ac clutch, but im not sure whatthe heck is goin on with that. anyhoo, could either one of these other codes cause my pickup to "bog" down? and "bog" is mild for how bad my truck is runnin.
thanx yall


psycocrazy

 

67 is the A/C clutch. Did you have the engine warmed up when you pulled the KOER codes? 21 is coolant not up to normal operating temp. If the engine was fully warmed up, then it would indicate a bad coolant temp sensor, but you need to check it with a mult-meter first to verify that it's bad. 75 is brake on/off switch -circuit closed. -TD

 

does 75 mean that my parking brake was set? and i followed the directions in the book that said to run the motor for 2 minutes, turn it off, count to 10, and then restart it. should i run it longer? and is there any way to check for a vacume leak? imm thinkin my truck is boggin down cause of the vacume hose at the modulator valve, could that make my truck bog down? thanks TD.

psycocrazy

 

The brake on/off switch is the one on the pedal that turns on the brake lights, (do you have brake lights? If not, that could be why) shuts off cruise control if you have it, and a few other functions related to stepping on the brakes. Haven't really studied it yet, but I have to get into it on my sister's Crown Vic, she blows fuses in the brake circuit, so she's been driving around without brake lights and is afraid to use cruise control 'cause it won't shut off when she steps on the brakes. And I think it should take a little longer than 2 minutes to bring the engine up to full operating temp, unless you are driving it. What did the temp. gauge say, did you look at it , and was it in the normal range? And as for vacuum leaks, that's a possibilty, I think EFI engines are sensitive to them. I used to look for them by running the engine at a fast idle and spraying carb cleaner around the area of the suspected leak. If there is one, the RPM will change quite a bit when the carb cleaner is sucked in and burned. Also, my book says not to do the KOER test untill all the problems have been fixed and codes cleared from the KOEO test, as you could get some false readings. (By the way, just got turned on to a possible deal on an '89 Ranger 4X4, has a five-speed, needs a clutch and the guy doesn't know how to do it himself and doesn't want to pay to have it done. I was told 100 bucks. I have no idea what it looks like, but there should be good parts there even if it's a basket case.) -TD

 

buy it buy it buy it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! even if it was just the body it would be worth it. anyways , if it is a vacume leak at the modulator valve, could that cause the motor to bog even in park? my friend says his bronco did this and it was the fuel filter.

 

I would think that a vacuum leak anywhere could cause that, not just at the modulator. And have'nt you replaced that fuel filter yet? -TD

 

no cause my dad wants me to wait until he gets home from vacation tomorrow, in case i miraculously screw somethin up, so its sittin in the front seat of my truck. regaurdless, im gonna do it when i gat off work tomorrow. ive been checkin everything else out. its kinda hard to find time between work school and church, you know?

 

Well, there's all that time between midnight and three AM when all you do is sleep anyway...! I know what you mean, by the time I get home from work, I'm too fried to even think of starting another project. I just got hold of a rack for my truck yesterday, but it's for a full-sized shortbed so I need to cut a foot out of the width, and about 4 inches out of the hight, and redo the mounts. I was going to work on it after I got home today, and just didn't get around to it. -TD

 

My fuel lister is about due for changing and I have a quick question.


When your trigger the inertia switch/ fuel shut off, how do you turn it back on? Or does it reset when the car is restarted?

P.

 

You have to manually reset it, just push the button on top and it will click into position. That's one of the little things about newer Fords that can be a pain if you are not aware of it, because the inertia switch can trigger from a bad bump in the road, going over rough roads too fast, spinning out, etc. If you don't know about the switch and your car dies, you are left scratching your head and wondering why. My mom has an '88 Taurus, she took a turn too fast on a mountain road and spun it out, came to rest in the ditch facing the other way, minimal damage but the car wouldn't start. She said several guys stopped to help, none of them driving Fords, and they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start till one of them looked through the owner's manual and found the instructions on the inertia switch. -TD

 

ok im breaking down to do it..... where is the inertia switch?
and this really doesnt look like its all that hard.

 

Its in the passenger side floor board,just above the carpet by the kick panel.Instead if smacking it,you could just unplug it,crank the motor over for 15 seconds then plug it back in,this will release the pressure.

 

filter has been changed, ran pretty good for a few minutes, then it started boggin again. my dad said since it appears to be doin it after it has warmed up, that i need to try the distributor. any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions for tomorrow? BTW the filter took me about 10 minutes, it was so easy! i was surprised.

 

Told ya! And if it runs OK till it warms up, that would seem to be some sort of temperature-related problem (am I stating the obvious?) Check that coolant temp sensor with your multi-meter. Just unplug it with the engine off and cold, and check the resistance. At 68 degrees F it should be 37.30K ohms. Hook it back up, start it and warm it up and then shut it off, unplug it and check it again. At 194 degrees F it should have dropped to 2.80K ohms. As the temp goes up, the resistance goes down. The ACT sensor should have the same readings as the ECT sensor, but of course it shouldn't be nearly as hot in the manifold as the water will get, so if you want to check it warmed up as well, look for something more like 10-15K ohms. -TD

 

any hints on how to do the distributor easily? i went ahead and got one since today is payday and theyre so cheap.