ok yall i got codes 54 and 67.....any help?

 

My book says 54 is the Air Charge Temp. sensor, which is the sensor located on the pass. side of the upper intake manifold center tube. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in, wiggle the plug, clear the codes and check again. It says 67 is the A/C compressor clutch switch...do you have A/C and is it working? (Other than not having a working fan) -TD

 

ok that explains it. its got a zip tie holding it on? looks like i should replace it. thanx.... and the ac works except for the blower motor. blows like 40 degrees
hey VIN 95 where is this throttle position sensor at?

 

Louis, here are some pics of the ACT sensor, and the TPS.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=48563&width=2

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=48564&width=2

Hope this helps, -Dan

 

ok my bad my tps is ghetto rigged, and i replaced my act and no check engine light....... yet. how expensive are fuel filters? my dad says its been about 100,ooo miles since it was changed, as in early 1999

 

I'd say it's past time. They're about 8-10 dollars, depending on where you get them. Mine was a Fram from Kragen, at $9.99 -TD

 

thanx ill let yall know how it runs on the way to work. how long does it take to change the fuel filter?

 

Well, I could do it in 5 minutes or so, but I've done a few of them and know how the little plastic clips work and so on. Relieve your fuel pressure first, there are several ways to do this but I find the easiest is just to give the inertia switch a sharp rap to trigger it, and then start the engine. It will run for a second and then die. Then get under the truck, I don't bother to jack it up, it sits high enough, and loosen the clamp around the fuel filter, then pull the clips that hold the filter to the frame bracket. Take a rag under with you, even though the pressure is off the system there's still fuel in the filter and it will run out. The new filter comes with caps on the ends, I pull them off and stick them on the old filter to keep the gas from running out. I hate gas all over me. The filter also comes with new plastic clips, don't try to re-use the old ones, you'll probably bugger them up pulling them off. It's really a pretty easy job. -TD

 

thanx for the info.... the blower motor got here today, am gonna try to to that and my fuel filter tonite. its still tryin to bog down. luckily, my parents are goin on vacation friday, so i can drive their neon this next week and let the truck rest.

 

woohoo..... i got ac again!!!! and moving down the ladder.....fuel filter and pcv valve are next

 

boo hoo...... ranger broke down on me today after work. wouldnt go? was hitting gas pedal and it started chugging, and then it started backfiring. then i got it to start rolling again, but it wouldnt go fast enough to move the speedometer.... im talkin really slow. drove it like that about 10 miles home and parked it. i didnt get to change the fuel filter yet, so i will do that at some point this week, along with spark plugs, distributor and rotor, if time and $$ allow. any thoughts, other than the tps.... already ordered it.
gracias
psycocrazy

 

Well, I was driving mine around town yesterday and the check engine light came on and it started bucking and jerking a bit. I pulled the codes, and it came up with 53, TPS voltage above maximum range. I pulled the TPS connector off and stuck it back on, wiggled it around a bit, cleared the codes from the computer, and it ran fine, no light. Today, just for the heck of it I unplugged The TPS completely and drove it for a few blocks. The light came on, but it ran OK. When the computer doesn't get a signal from a sensor, it goes into a limp-home mode. This time the code was 63, TPS sensor below minimum voltage (gee, wonder why). You really should invest in a code scanner, mine was 35 bucks at Kragen. I've used it on Mom's Taurus, Dad's Tracer, and my sister's Crown Vic, besides my own truck. It really eliminates the guesswork. -TD

on edit, after thinking about it; if you don't have a digital multi-meter, it's worth it to get one of those, too. You can use it to test the sensors and things, instead of just replacing them without being sure that's the problem. The code scanner just tells you WHERE the problem is, like in the TPS circuit, not WHAT the problem is, like a bad sensor, a loose connector, broken wire and so on. I checked my TPS when it first came up, and it checked OK, I've just got wiring problems. I've seen cheapo digital multi-meters in the bargain tool bin at NAPA for less than 10 bucks. -Dan

 

ive got a code reader, but so far no codes?!?!?! ill have to work on it this weekend. ive got an instruction book, so i should be able to do a more thorough check for codes. ill check after work tomorrow....... by the way i enjoyed the ac allllllllll day today. i owe you one

 

Well, at least someone's staying cool! I just put about $150 into my A/C and it blows about 60 degrees. Cool, but not cold. Back to the drawing board, I guess. -TD

 

the ac only works if the truck does unfortunatly.....