My truck is a '64 F-100 short-bed with a 223 and a 3-speed overdrive transmission. The overdrive housing which extends from the gear box is supported by a lateral cross-member. The steel channel member does not look like an original frame component. I don't see a depiction of the cross-member in my shop manual. Is it an add-on?

 

To the best of my knowledge it has to be an add on. 64's didn't have a transmission X member, that began in 65. Your 1964 Manual is correct.

I'm curious do you have rear motor mounts on the sides of your bellhousing and a single front extending engine mount to front most X member??

That is OEM stock Configuration. If so, there's no sense having a rear trans X Member in conjunction with OEM front mount & bellhousing mount set up.

FWIW, there is better weight distribution in 1965 & up style powertrain mount than in 64 & back. In 64's with front engine mount, front wieght is ahead of front axle at the Big end of front springs. The bellhousing mounts are just about @ the shackle end on the front springs so in the end the front springs carry the engine & transmission wieght on the single I beam axle.

The 1965 & up with side engine mounts has engine wieght right on front I beams, not ahead of them and more or less centered on coil springs. The trans' wieght is between the rear of the front and front of the rear springs. A really huge difference in handling and performance potential, and why I got rid of a super nice '63 integral bed SWB with a 292 & 3spd O/D for a fair to middling 66 that I have now built into a better built slick than my 63.
FBp

 

Thanks a lot, FordBoypete.

My truck has the engine mounting you describe. A single bolted yoke mounting to a front cross-member and two rear bell housing mounts.

I'm working on figuring-out why my newly installed 223 is locked-up. I was thinking that maybe this rear add-on transmission mount which has the nose of the overdrive housing lifted high on a 2X4 and some rubber is somehow binding the clutch to transmission fitting? Does that make any sense? There seems to be no explanation for my solidly locked engine crank.

 

HMmm Jethro. . .
I was thinking there might be a bind there, but I don't see how it would cause a lock up? I mean there's not enough going on to make it lock.
Perhaps prematurely eat some bearings on mainshafts or destroy planetary in O/D unit perhaps. but I don't know of any way the transmission case could flex enough to lock the engine up. I don't have enough data to be certain what's up in your case. Try the following diagnostic sequence and see what you come up with, okay?

Let me ask a few questions here. . .

I) Does engine turn over at all , as it is now, perhaps part way or is it locked solid?

A) If it turns part way over then locks, and can be returned part way then locks, it sounds like an internal engine problem

B, If answer to 1 is NO ENGINE IS Locked Solid and does not turn at all;
1, Check to be sure both shift levers & O/D engagement lever are fully in neutral
or disengaged) positions, not 2 positions at once, if answer ie Yes go on to #2

2, Remove tin inspection cover from lower portion of bell housing & look in there;
a, be sure trans'msn does not interfere with clutch, fork or throwout brg
b, check trans bell hsg bolts aren't run too deep /thru bellhousing to clutch
c, Check starter drive is not bound in flywheel teeth
d, Check if flywheel & clutch cover(pressure Plate) fit in bell hsg w/clearance

II, If all is in order inside there, remove transmission from bell housing.

A, Does engine turn over freely now with trans-O/D removed?
1, If so, I'd suspect problem is in tranny, most likely in O/D unit.
a, Does transmission turn freely in all gears & neutral now?
b, if so problem is in the mounting or mount up system somehow

2, Engine does not turn over with transmision removed,
a, then problem most likely is in engine.

III, If everything turns freely with transmission-O/D removed from truck, try removing the non OEM cross member & see if the engine turns freely now


Try this diagnostic sequence jethro, it should get you some idea of what's up with your Slick. Let me know what you do/do not discover. I'll think about this more.

I'm no big affecinado of inline engine designs. I work on Radial, Piston Type, Antique
"Warbird" engines as in WW II FIghters & Bombers etc, and have had both HD V-Twin & "Ricer" inline high Rev engines and my Slick has a big V8 while my beater has a 4.9L I-6 engine. (I got it at a cheap price, leave it at that - & don't ask !). Anyway seems every time I drive my F150 with the 4.9L (aka 300 CID) I-6 I get reminded of why I'm not all that fond of the design. It's also a 5 spd -O/D, Manual Shift, gear box. It has plenty of low end torque & power but it doesn't like interstates much. I broke more I-6 engines than I care to reflect on, over the years.

BUT. . . I digress, I know folks who've had great experiences with I-6 design engines, I'm just not one of them.

FBp

 

Thanks alot for the analysis, Fordboy.

My engine is locked solid. Cannot turn crank with a wrench even a smidge. That is with clutch depressed and shifter in neutral position. I will follow your diagnostic sequence. Maybe I'm not fully in neutral? Maybe clutch is not fully dis-engaging?

I'm trying everything I can without backing-out transmission because truck is parked on bare ground and cannot be moved even if drivetrain is not involved in locking because the brakes are frozen. Besides, I got no place to move it to, anyway.

 

To eliminate the engine as part of the problem,
1. Pull the sparkplugs, diconnect the coil to distributor plug wire, place a breaker bar with proper socket and place on crankshaft bolt. Try to rotate the clockwise (viewed from the front). If it will not move, rotate in reverse. If the bolt breaks loose from the crank, retighten it and move to the next step.
2.Block the rear wheels and pull the drive shaft. Place trans on nuetral and turn output shaft. If it turns, go to the next step.
3. If it does not turn, pull tranny and inspect.

It is possible you have the gears locked in the tranny but i doubt it. I even doubt the engine is locked up.
I believe either you have your clutch to pressure plate clearance too small (most likely your bell housing would have been a bear to snug up by tightening the bolts.) or your bell housing needs to be shimed.
Let us know what you found out.

 

Thanks for all the great analysis, guys.
I'll let you know what happens.