Hesitant F250
Thanks, Newbie
replacing the points is pretty easy when you have the book.... personally i'd rather have the book to read a few hundred times while fidding with it, but basicly you take them out and put em back in the way you took em out, and before you tighten the points, you turn the engine by hand to get the distributor cam the points ride on, so the part of the points that rubs agaist the cam is on the high part of the cam... make the points set on the highest point of the cam. stick a feeler gauge in the gap, snug up the screws and recheck the gap to see if its right, then tighen down the screws a bit more. the gap on my 73 engine was .017 by the book, yours may differ.
if you never did it before, i'd get a chiltons manual they are cheap, and easy to follow.
My truck was upgraded to a Petronix...no more points to screw with, easy to install and inexpensive (about $75, methinks). May want to go that route. Nothing really wrong with points, just another part to mess with/potential failure (you ever have a condenser quit on you, you'll know what I mean).
Anyway, couple other things to consider before you go tearing into the distributor:
Does the truck hiccup only on throttle application, or does it happen when you step on the gas after it decelerates? The distinction is important, and maybe not apparent.
If it's just throttle application (cruising along with your foot on the gas, but you want to give it a bit more to pass someone and it coughs) then it may be the accelerator pump diaphragm in the carb. It's a paper/rubber thing held in by a cover with four screws on it. You can buy these seperately at some parts stores, but it's also included with a carb refresh kit. The cover for it has a rod that comes off it. When you apply pressure to the throttle, it squirts in a momentary extra bit of fuel to prevent the cough you may be getting. They get hard and can tear. Usually, they will leak fuel out if they are bad. Cheap and easy fix.
Other thing to check is the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. Take the cap off and have a look inside...there are weights with springs in the bottom of the distributor...you should be able to move these with a little application of pressure. Make sure they aren't sticking or rusted together. Then check the function of the vacuum unit hanging off the side of the distributor. If you apply suction to the opposite end (mmm, tastes good) the weights should move when the diaphragm unit pulls them from the vacuum.
If that all checks out, with the cap still off put a wrench on the crank nut and turn the crank back and forth a bit. The distributor rotor should move in sync with it. If it has any substantial delay or pause in it's motion, you've got a worn timing chain.
The exact problem I have.
This usually results in the big hiccup any time you go from decel to accel with the throttle, as the engine timing gets all screwed up as the chain takes up the slack between crank and cam. I bought a Cloyes double roller replacement on Ebay for about $65, which is a pretty good deal.
Let us know what you find!
As to the leaking described above, is it possible to be a small leak ???
Thanks, cs65
Use some WD or similar product to find the leak. Spray all along the manifold and carb base with engine running. If the engine rpm's pick up a bit while spraying, you found your leak.





