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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Hesitant F250

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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #1  
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Hesitant F250

I was hoping that someone might be able to diagnose, from my weak description, what is going on with my '65 with a 352 in it. It seems to be somewhat hesitant when you're cruising along and attempt to increase speed. When you accelerate it hesitates and is sluggish. It stutters. I figure that it's either fuel, lack of, or a spark issue. I thought I'd replace the fuel filter, the points and condenser and mebbe even rebuild the Holley 4 bbl. I have never replaced points and a condenser before. I realize that I have to gap the points. Can anyone briefly describe how to replace the points.
Thanks, Newbie
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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i think your best bet is to get a chiltons repair manual, it covers all the basic stuff like the points and tune ups with all the settings. With a book youll have diagrams and better how to's than at least I can tell ya.
replacing the points is pretty easy when you have the book.... personally i'd rather have the book to read a few hundred times while fidding with it, but basicly you take them out and put em back in the way you took em out, and before you tighten the points, you turn the engine by hand to get the distributor cam the points ride on, so the part of the points that rubs agaist the cam is on the high part of the cam... make the points set on the highest point of the cam. stick a feeler gauge in the gap, snug up the screws and recheck the gap to see if its right, then tighen down the screws a bit more. the gap on my 73 engine was .017 by the book, yours may differ.

if you never did it before, i'd get a chiltons manual they are cheap, and easy to follow.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 05:51 AM
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ddavidv
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
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Points and condensers...they still make those?
My truck was upgraded to a Petronix...no more points to screw with, easy to install and inexpensive (about $75, methinks). May want to go that route. Nothing really wrong with points, just another part to mess with/potential failure (you ever have a condenser quit on you, you'll know what I mean).
Anyway, couple other things to consider before you go tearing into the distributor:
Does the truck hiccup only on throttle application, or does it happen when you step on the gas after it decelerates? The distinction is important, and maybe not apparent.
If it's just throttle application (cruising along with your foot on the gas, but you want to give it a bit more to pass someone and it coughs) then it may be the accelerator pump diaphragm in the carb. It's a paper/rubber thing held in by a cover with four screws on it. You can buy these seperately at some parts stores, but it's also included with a carb refresh kit. The cover for it has a rod that comes off it. When you apply pressure to the throttle, it squirts in a momentary extra bit of fuel to prevent the cough you may be getting. They get hard and can tear. Usually, they will leak fuel out if they are bad. Cheap and easy fix.
Other thing to check is the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. Take the cap off and have a look inside...there are weights with springs in the bottom of the distributor...you should be able to move these with a little application of pressure. Make sure they aren't sticking or rusted together. Then check the function of the vacuum unit hanging off the side of the distributor. If you apply suction to the opposite end (mmm, tastes good) the weights should move when the diaphragm unit pulls them from the vacuum.
If that all checks out, with the cap still off put a wrench on the crank nut and turn the crank back and forth a bit. The distributor rotor should move in sync with it. If it has any substantial delay or pause in it's motion, you've got a worn timing chain.
The exact problem I have.
This usually results in the big hiccup any time you go from decel to accel with the throttle, as the engine timing gets all screwed up as the chain takes up the slack between crank and cam. I bought a Cloyes double roller replacement on Ebay for about $65, which is a pretty good deal.
Let us know what you find!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 10:13 AM
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camperspecial65
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From: seattle
Great thread...My 65 has same problem...lots worse when cold...when I take off the choke kicks itself all the way out and trying to shove it back in while battling the hiccup is fun...Its better when I am able to let it come to temp before I depart, but still has the stumble....you guys still think same issues as above or could there be any others?
As to the leaking described above, is it possible to be a small leak ???

Thanks, cs65
 
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 02:37 PM
  #5  
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From: Texas
sounds more like a huge vacuum leak. If it idles fine but only stumbles when easing back into the throttle, your engine is leaning out.
Use some WD or similar product to find the leak. Spray all along the manifold and carb base with engine running. If the engine rpm's pick up a bit while spraying, you found your leak.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 02:18 AM
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Thanks for all of the help guys. I was already planning on a carb rebuild and a points replace, so hopefully when I figure that all out I will have a much better running truck. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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