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starter won't stop cranking / engine won't shut off after pulling key
I'm having the same problem with my 1986 ford F150 302 engine
I attach the battery cable and the starter starts cranking away. I have no control to shut it down with the key. I have to pull the cable off the battery to stop the cranking.
I've replaced the selenoid twice, tested the starter @ Autozone, they said the starter is fine. It starts out at 200amps and then lowers to 150 amps. I had them pull a new one and check it, same read as mine.
I've bought a new ignition switch, installed it and it made no difference. I've tested all of the fusible link wiring to the selenoid, all live.
I've pulled the S switch connection on the selenoid while the starter was cranking, it made no difference
We seem to be flooded with a rash of bad starter relays(solenoids) lately. I wonder if they are all made by the same company and they are having problems? I would try a different brand, and see if it works any better.
If you have a voltmeter, and put it on rx1 ohms scale to read continuity, with the starter relay out of the truck, put one meter lead on one of the large posts, and the other meter lead on the other large post. If you get a reading between the two posts with it out of the truck, then it's bad(welded shut).
well i did tryed that folks about changing starter relay for better one, "MOTORCRAFT" which is ford's relays well turned out to be the relay does many functions it is connected so that starter works, iginition module works and few other things, i checked cables and some of them were sticking each other and that was the short i was receiving plus the starter motor was giving too much power ...changed the starter motor, fixed cables broken ones, changed starter relaid or so called selenoid and bamn truck works fine...good luck peeps check ur cable connections its not much hard just takes times goodluck hope this post helps now am having ac leaking problems which is another story oh boy ! heheh lol but can hold it
starter cranks once you commect the battery cables
Thanks for your response
I changed over to a motorcraft selenoid and it solved the problem
I went through 3 "Standard" selenoids and all 3 of them stuck causing the problem above.
I plan on sending an e-mail to this manufacturer to complain "Standard Auto Parts"
I spent my whole weekend dealing with this problem including removing the starter for testing, removing the whole steering column to test the ignition system which by the way when I was putting the steering column back in I broke a plastic part which controls the shift indicator so when I'm in park it indicates that I'm in reverse, etc.. not to mention the 2 times I brought the battery in to be charged.
I also had to pay my mechanic 2 hours labor to come to my house and help me with the problem, luckily he brought a motorcraft selenoid with him.
I'm glad however that it was an easy fix in the end, but, I'm still mad at the Standard parts Manufacturer for causing all the unnecessary time, labor cost, anxiety, and frustration.
Ive posted this a number of times before, but when putting on an aftermarket relay always leave the negative batttery cable loose enough to pull it off if he starter remains engaged. This will allow you to pull the cable off and not fry your starter or relay if you are quick. Next step would be to reverse the wiring on the relay and try it again. Many times I have installed an aftermarket relay, and even some oddball Ford relays that had to be wired backwards of the original in order to work properly.
thats true thats exactly wut i did before reapairing problem and it turned out to be a faulty cable connection that cables were touching each other and also starter was not one for truck....was giving too much power.....and would make selenoid stick ,,,,,
anyhow hehe ttyl if u know about air conditioning on trucks let me know lol cuz i got that problem now its a lickeage in the ac dont know where n stuff
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