I just got a 2001 PSD with 32,000 miles.

Can someone tell me what needs to be changed and when?

Is there anything else other than oil & filter, fuel filter,Air filter?

If someone could post some pics or describe where all of this stuff is that would be great

Anything else I should know of (What to do or not do)


Thanks in advance
Sorry for all the newbee question!

 

btt
any help would be great

 

Congratulations on getting the truck. Should give you many miles and years of service with the right maintenance. Not sure I can answer ALL your questions, but I will give it a go:

Your truck should take about 15 quarts of oil to change it. Personally, I use Rotella 15w-40 oil from Sam's Club (comes in cases of six 1-gallon jugs), and a Motorcraft FL-1995 filter from WalMart. The owner's manual says to change the oil every 5000 miles for regular service, and ever 3000 miles for severe service, ie dusty conditions, lots of stop-and-go, or heavy towing/hauling. Naturally, the oil filter is attached to the bottom rear of the engine on the driver's side. The fuel filter should be changed every 10,000-15,000 miles. Personally, I change mine every OTHER oil change, which puts my fuel filter changes at 10,000-mile intervals. As a side note, I rotate my tires at the alternate oil change intervals. These fuel filters come two different ways. The stock fuel filter and/or the Motorcraft and some others are made separately from the filter canister lid. Some other brands make a unit that is a filter and a lid made together. If you use one of these, you will not need the stock canister lid, but I would recommend NOT throwing it away, as you might run across a big sale on stock-type filters. By the way, the fuel filter canister is located under a plastic cover on the top of the engine that has the word "Powerstroke" on it. There are a couple nuts that hold that cover on and it is simple to remove to gain access to the fuel filter. Since your truck is a 2001, you should have the gold-colored coolant (I think). If so, you should be good for 100,000 miles, I think it is. Older trucks required that an additive be mixed with the coolant to prevent cavitation inside the engine block. You won't have to worry about that with the gold coolant. If your coolant is green, then you DO need to maintain the additive in your coolant. Air filtration is a widely-discussed topic here. It is pretty much agreed that the stock air-box/filter set-up isn't very good. Just about everyone here has changed their stock set up. Ford makes a unit called AIS that you might want to look at if your truck is still under a warranty. The filter elements for the AIS are a little pricey, but the system is sound. Others prefer the Tymar deal. Still others like the K&N FIPK set-up. I haven't changed mine yet, but I tend to prefer the Tymar, I think. My advice to you would be to do a search for these (and anything else that you are interested in) on this forum and you should come up with enough reading material filled with folks' opinions to last you for a week or two. Oh....and the air intake system is located on the inner fender, under the hood on the driver's side. One other thing that I can think of is that nasty little CMP or CPS, or Camshaft Position Sensor, or whatever it is called. Those little electronic doodads have a nasty little habit of going out and leaving the truck stranded. Lots of folks here have bought a spare and keep it in their golvebox (along with a 10mm wrench). Best advice is to buy one from an International/Navistar dealer for about $80 or so, instead of buying one from Ford at about $200. This part is on the front of the engine, more on the passenger side. JohnsDiesel has some pictures and diagrams that show where this part is located. I am sure he'll be glad to post a link to them for you. I might also mention trying to maximize your performance and/or fuel economy. You can get a tuner or a chip, but if you use these items, it is wise to add guages to monitor your exhaust gas temps. boost, and transmission temps. You might also want to change to a 3.5" or 4" downpipe and a larger diamter exhaust system. Doing these things will help your engine breathe better and keep those harmful exhaust gas temperatures down. Once again, my advice is to read all you can about these things and make up your own mind. Several of these modifications claim higher MPG, but the single most important aspect of getting the best mileage you can get is sensible driving (don't watch me). Try to keep your engine RPM as close to 2000 as you can. Above that, the mileage starts falling drastically. Also, the Ford auto tranny is considered by some as a weak point in the drivetrain. If you want to spend the money, you might consider a BTS transmission upgrade (read, read, read). OK, that's about all I can think of. Is that enough?? Just research any question you have about your truck here. The folks here are very knowledgeable and very willing to help out their fellow PSD drivers.........

 

Wow thanks, I really did'nt expect that much quality information. I think you have answered every question I have. Now I will have to do some reading so I can come up with some new questions.

After all that you wrote I kind of feel like I'm short changing you with this short reply

I guess I will try to make myself feel better with fluff.

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There that's a little better, Thanks again for all the great info I love these forums

 

RedTaurus94 covered pretty much everything, but I did not see Flushing the Transmission, should be done before 30K and since your truck has 32K I would say you are due.

 

Can you explain more about this? What is caviation? how long does it take to form?

Thanks for the great info!

 

I checked my fluid and its green, so I guess it has the additive added.

can you go from the green stuff to the gold stuff?

 

Yes with completely removing all the green coolant.

 

You can also buy coolant test strips to tell you the status of the additive (FW-16) in your green coolant. Lets you know if it is still good or if it needs more, or it has too much. The strips also tell you your coolant status - good or not so good, to be technical.

Then about cavitation. Cavitation is very bad for the PSD. You know how in The Hunt for Red October, when the submarine rapidly accellerated the props into reverse and the bubbles came out of seemingly nowhere? This is cavitation. Bubbles are ceated in your engine by vibration of the diesel motor. The bubbles then work to remove metal from the coolant passages, and eventually the hot side and the cool sides meet. That's Bad. The additive, FW-16 (used to be FW-15) keeps this from happening by coating the sides of the motor's coolant passages and prevents the bubbles from removing metal. That is why the additive is so important.

 

I buy my coolant test strips and additive from Diesel Injection Service as well as my fuel filters and fuel additive.

 

There is an article on this site written by an international field rep. that states gold coolant is not approved for 2001 and earlier. If it came with green I would stick with green.