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There should be no problem in putting a plow on it.There are many to choose from. The biggest factors is the type of plowing you will be doing ie. personal or commercial and the money you want to spend. The area of the country should also thought of,(a 3" snow storm plows a lot easier than a 14" one does) Plan to spend $3000.00 minimum for a plow worth hauling around. FISCHER, BOSS, DIAMOND are about the best in my mind for heavy plowing. All new plows come with the hydraulics powered by an electric motor on the plow out in front,-no more under the hood, belt driven pumps.Some are set up to become a VEE, or scoop (reverse VEE) for breaking through banks and for easier clean up. IMO the MEYERS and WESTERN are good plows, but for lighter plowing. In upstate New York they are very seldom seen on trucks used for parking lots or large areas but often for driveways. Check the plow dealers in your area. and do lots of comparison. $3000.00 to $4000.00 is too much money to spend to find out you are not satisfied best of luck PHIL
P.S. My 7.3 plows "full blade piles at nearly an idle so don't be afraid of plowing with a diesel.
Thank you for the information , it will help out in making some decisions on the purchase. I spoke with a Meyer dealer and he explained to me that by adding a plow on the truck with a diesel engine it overloads the front axle weight rating and therefore voids any warranty. The warranty is not a concern but, will the truck be safe? Thank you again for any info. you may have.
If you are not concerned about the warranty (talk to the people where you bought the truck, if they say the plow will not void the warranty, I would ask for that in writing), You will probably want to add an extra leaf to each side of the front springs to compensate for the weight of the plow. That is how my truck is set up for plowing. I don't have a plow on it, but the man I bought it from had a Myers plow on the truck (1987 F-250, 4X4, four speed manual, 6.9 liter). I do not have any experience with snow plows, but am looking for one to put on my truck. I just want to plow my and my parents farm roads, about a half mile long each. Also, you may want to consider up-grading your altenator. The stock is probably about 70 amp. The stock is usually only rated for about five percent more load that the truck needs at peak usage. So I was told by the man that rebuilt mine, he has about 30 plus years in auto/truck electrical work, he rebuilds starters and altenators. I am not a mechanic or electrician by profession, ask someone that is local and experienced in this line of work, find a rebuild shop for altenators and ask them, they can test yours for its output. Remember, you will be adding more lights and the electric motor to run the hydraulic pump for the plow. Also you will be going slow, maybe not much more than at idle speed, pushing a load, more than likely with headlights and snow plow lights on, and with the heater fan and FM radio/tape player going, and maybe a CB radio. None of these draw a lot of current alone, but combine all this, you may be putting a strain on the electrical system. I had my stock alt rebuilt from the stock 70 amp up to 140 amp. The shop used my case and put in all new parts and bearings, he let me watch, I was just curious, never seen that done before
Just thought, in case you want to know about what the alt upgrade rebuild cost, I drove my truck to his shop and took the alt off in the parking lot (yes, it was hot!!!) and he rebuilt it while I watched, then I put it back on the truck and he came out and tested the output right then. It was putting out 140 amps if I remember correctly, maybe a little more. For the parts, his labor AND DON'T FORGET TO PUT A NEW MATCHING (the output of the alt.) VOLTAGE REGULATOR on. Otherwise, you can overcharge and fry your batteries without a matching voltage regulator. Anyway, all this cost almost exactly $200 in USA dollars, this year (2000).
If you take your own alt off, just remember to disconnect both batteries before you do anything.
The man at the shop explained to me the way the alt and batteries work, if I can get it right. He said the upgraded alt biggest advantage is that it will charge the batteries back up to their required voltage much quicker than the stock alt. Good for a lot of turning on and turning off the engine with only short travel distance in between, such as a local delivery truck, or for slow speed travel, such as in 4X4 travel and/or plowing snow.
I have jumper cables that are I think 2 guage, heavy duty wire. The other day, my girlfriends little mazda pick-up battery died so dead the starter would not make a sound, I mean really dead. Normally to jump start a battery that dead, in the past, I have to hook cables up and let the dead battery charge for some time, maybe four minutes or so. I hooked up the cables from my diesel with the 140 amp alt, and by the time I walked around and got in the mazda, I turned the key and it started. My diesel was at normal idle about 700-800 rpm. Just another advantage to being over-built, over engineered, if there is such a thing.
Good luck and these are just some things to consider, talk to as many people that do this for a living as you can before you spend your hard earned money and make a mistake.
Your input has been great help. Somthing i never thought of, the charging system. I've heard about the leaf spring add-on and also was told that some people add coil over shocks to aid in the extra weight added to the front end. Thanks again for taking your time and giving me the information.
Another $.02 from me. the spring over shocks are a last resort. they put stress on the shock bolts that is far more than designed. There are small air bag helpers, and rubber snubbers that don't even touch unless the weight is there, so as not to change the ride under regular(no-plow)conditions. They are a little more costly but not much. GOOD LUCK PHIL