PSD "Whooshing"
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PSD "Whooshing"
Just picked up a 2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. My first diesel, awesome by the way, when it is started and idling after about 2 minutes I get a whooshing from the tail pipe. It sounds like extra pressure coming out of the exhaust. I read something about a "wastegate" and was wonding (bear in mind I know nothing about the diesel engine) if the "gate" was not sending this pressure to the engine since the engine did not need it while in idle? The truck just turned 33,000 miles. As a side note, I bought it via Ebay and paid $30,000 for it. I am told I got a steal. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter, and had the transmission flushed and serviced. I don't think any of these are related, just giving background.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
PSD "Whooshing"
Hey and welcome to the site. I have been here a while but not posted a lot - bunch of good people with a lot of help for those of us who are not professional mechanics.
The sound you hear is probably the exhaust backpressure valve working. It is a butterfly in the exhaust by the turbocharger that closes off a large portion of the exhaust to make the engine warm up faster. You can also buy kits to use this same valve as an exhaust brake if you want to. This is normal as long as it goes away when the truck is warmed up.
Hope this helps -- Dave
The sound you hear is probably the exhaust backpressure valve working. It is a butterfly in the exhaust by the turbocharger that closes off a large portion of the exhaust to make the engine warm up faster. You can also buy kits to use this same valve as an exhaust brake if you want to. This is normal as long as it goes away when the truck is warmed up.
Hope this helps -- Dave
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PSD "Whooshing"
Thanks Dave. Another question for the group, since I no have no one to ask that I know. When leaving from a stopped position or if merging on a highway, can a diesel be "punched" or "floored" or will that hurt it? I know there is not a great ammount of pick-up as with a gas engine (I had a V-10 Dodge)but I can think of times where it would be benificial to quickly accelerate.
Thanks, Matt
Thanks, Matt
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PSD "Whooshing"
If the engien is warmed up, I see no reason why it should really harm anything, maybe if your pulling a load something might happen. I'm not exactly an expert on much of anything, but that is my opinion.
Logan
Logan
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PSD "Whooshing"
Thanks Logan, Actually I have been on this board all day. There is some great info here. I have been reading about the super chips and such. I plan to call western diesel when they open tomorrow to get one ordered. I am pretty excited and can't wait to see what it does to my Limited Edition Excursion 4x4 PSD.
Thanks all!
Matt
Thanks all!
Matt
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PSD "Whooshing"
I have had this, my first diesel for a week now and noticed the whoosh for the first time this morning. I start it up via remote start and come out listening to the note of the exshaust. I was concerned/perplexed. Logged on to FTE, came here and found this thread. What luck. Thanks for the news.
Postmaster
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From: Baileyton, TN
PSD "Whooshing"
Flooring a diesel is what most diesel pro drivers do everytime they pull away. It does not hurt the diesel at all, but can annoy following drivers if you floor it too hard for too long. Over fueling of a diesel results in BLACK smoke. Try it as an exercise. When cruising along doing good on an uphill section, push the pedal a bit harder, and see the smoke. As a side to this, if you smoke a lot going up hill, change down and go slower, you will not smoke.
Wm
Wm
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PSD "Whooshing"
If you really wnat to see smoke, I can go from 2nd to 5th gear without killing the engine(I found that out the hard way). Unless you count 300-400 RPM as dead because that is lower then the 500 RPM ideling speed.
Logan
Logan
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From: Whittier, Ca
PSD "Whooshing"
You can floor it from a start. I drive a Power Stroke and also a big rig driver.
A couple very important things to make that eng. last a long time is:
1- read all of the engine owners manual it has good advice, and 2- let it idle to cool the exhaust and let the turbo slow down be fore you kill the eng.
The turbo bearing is lubricated by the eng. oil, and if you hop off the highway and stop, the turbo is still spining very fast. If you stop the eng. you will loose the oil pressure to the turbo, and it will still be spining and will not last very long.
If you hop off the road, let it idle for a couple minutes be fore shuting it off. If you are just stoping for a minute, (like a rest area), leave it running. I carry an extra key in my pocket and lock the truck with the eng. running. Crusing through a parking lot at the store looking for a parking space, or down your residential street is usally enough time to let the turbo slow down.
The manual explains all this. I recomend you read it. I love my psd pick up and I hope you will love your's too.
A couple very important things to make that eng. last a long time is:
1- read all of the engine owners manual it has good advice, and 2- let it idle to cool the exhaust and let the turbo slow down be fore you kill the eng.
The turbo bearing is lubricated by the eng. oil, and if you hop off the highway and stop, the turbo is still spining very fast. If you stop the eng. you will loose the oil pressure to the turbo, and it will still be spining and will not last very long.
If you hop off the road, let it idle for a couple minutes be fore shuting it off. If you are just stoping for a minute, (like a rest area), leave it running. I carry an extra key in my pocket and lock the truck with the eng. running. Crusing through a parking lot at the store looking for a parking space, or down your residential street is usally enough time to let the turbo slow down.
The manual explains all this. I recomend you read it. I love my psd pick up and I hope you will love your's too.
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From: NEBRASKA
I have an early '99 PSD that is whooshing after it is warmed up. Case in point, I just got home from a 50 mile trip. I was letting the truck idle while I was unloading and noticed that it was making this noise. It would quit for about 15 or 20 seconds and do it again. My first instinct was the fan clutch locking in. But it is cycling to fast for that. I read that this is normal when cold, but what about when it is warm.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Dededo, Guam
Originally Posted by rondogw
You can floor it from a start. I drive a Power Stroke and also a big rig driver.
A couple very important things to make that eng. last a long time is:
1- read all of the engine owners manual it has good advice, and 2- let it idle to cool the exhaust and let the turbo slow down be fore you kill the eng.
The turbo bearing is lubricated by the eng. oil, and if you hop off the highway and stop, the turbo is still spining very fast. If you stop the eng. you will loose the oil pressure to the turbo, and it will still be spining and will not last very long.
If you hop off the road, let it idle for a couple minutes be fore shuting it off. If you are just stoping for a minute, (like a rest area), leave it running. I carry an extra key in my pocket and lock the truck with the eng. running. Crusing through a parking lot at the store looking for a parking space, or down your residential street is usally enough time to let the turbo slow down.
The manual explains all this. I recomend you read it. I love my psd pick up and I hope you will love your's too.
A couple very important things to make that eng. last a long time is:
1- read all of the engine owners manual it has good advice, and 2- let it idle to cool the exhaust and let the turbo slow down be fore you kill the eng.
The turbo bearing is lubricated by the eng. oil, and if you hop off the highway and stop, the turbo is still spining very fast. If you stop the eng. you will loose the oil pressure to the turbo, and it will still be spining and will not last very long.
If you hop off the road, let it idle for a couple minutes be fore shuting it off. If you are just stoping for a minute, (like a rest area), leave it running. I carry an extra key in my pocket and lock the truck with the eng. running. Crusing through a parking lot at the store looking for a parking space, or down your residential street is usally enough time to let the turbo slow down.
The manual explains all this. I recomend you read it. I love my psd pick up and I hope you will love your's too.
To add to this, you want ot idle after running for two reasons, one was stated above by RONDOGW. However the turbo is usually at its normal speed after 5 seconds or so. The ultimate reason to bring down your Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT). This will help your turbo bearings out a lot. Here is some info I gug up of the web.
The oil that cools the turbo bearings is crankcase oil. soooo, Delo 400 oil burns at 475 degrees F (thats the flash point) but all engine oils are designed to run at substantially less than that.
The PSD system has been designed so that the turbo bearings, and the oil that cools them, stays (among other things) well below the oil flash point. Basically, since the exhaust pipe is right on the turbo, you've got a 1300 degree heat source (the exhaust) darn close to the turbo bearings themselves which need to be about 1,000 degrees cooler than that. So there's a thermodynamics challenge if you ever saw one -- keeping the bearings cool in the face of an enormous heater. It just can't be done without a predictable cooling mechanism.
When runnning with high EGTs, you diminish the built-in (running) temperature differential between the bearings and the EGTs (flowing oil cools the turbo from the inside; flowing air cools it from the outside, etc.). When you shut down, you halt the cooling processes which would normally take heat away from the turbo bearings and keep them safely cooler than the EGTs. Imagine a bearing temperature of 300 degrees and an EGT of 1300. Well, that 1,000 degrees temperature difference happens only when the system is running -- dumping all that heat from the bearings into the engine oil and surrounding air.
So when you shut down with high EGTs, two important heat-dissipating factors go away (1) engine oil flow, and (2) air flow around the turbo housing itself. If you leave such a system shut down with a 1000 degree EGT, for example, and no way to cool it, that 1,000 degree heat starts to soak into the turbo, and the bearings heat up. Thats bad. very very bad!
As for the magic of 300 degrees, there's more to it than oil flash point; other oil breakdown mechanisms at high temps (viscocity, additives, etc.) are a big part of it. Just think of the turbo bearings in a similar light as the oil-cooled engine parts, which are kept in the 250 degrees neighborhood. But yes its true that when the oil burns, it leaves a residue (coke) that is catestrophic to the bearings.
Anyway, thats (in part) where the 300 degree number came from. You want the turbo bearings to never see anything close to the oil flash point (you want them closer to engine operating temperature), and this is a heat problem that has a profoundly different character when you are running versus when you are shut down. Basically, you must not shut down until there is no longer a source of heat (the exhaust pipes, turbo housing, etc.) capable of raising the turbo bearing temps above 300. To me, 300 is a max I would not go above. I don't want my bearings over 300 degrees, so I won't allow a source hotter than that to be present right next to them.
The PSD system has been designed so that the turbo bearings, and the oil that cools them, stays (among other things) well below the oil flash point. Basically, since the exhaust pipe is right on the turbo, you've got a 1300 degree heat source (the exhaust) darn close to the turbo bearings themselves which need to be about 1,000 degrees cooler than that. So there's a thermodynamics challenge if you ever saw one -- keeping the bearings cool in the face of an enormous heater. It just can't be done without a predictable cooling mechanism.
When runnning with high EGTs, you diminish the built-in (running) temperature differential between the bearings and the EGTs (flowing oil cools the turbo from the inside; flowing air cools it from the outside, etc.). When you shut down, you halt the cooling processes which would normally take heat away from the turbo bearings and keep them safely cooler than the EGTs. Imagine a bearing temperature of 300 degrees and an EGT of 1300. Well, that 1,000 degrees temperature difference happens only when the system is running -- dumping all that heat from the bearings into the engine oil and surrounding air.
So when you shut down with high EGTs, two important heat-dissipating factors go away (1) engine oil flow, and (2) air flow around the turbo housing itself. If you leave such a system shut down with a 1000 degree EGT, for example, and no way to cool it, that 1,000 degree heat starts to soak into the turbo, and the bearings heat up. Thats bad. very very bad!
As for the magic of 300 degrees, there's more to it than oil flash point; other oil breakdown mechanisms at high temps (viscocity, additives, etc.) are a big part of it. Just think of the turbo bearings in a similar light as the oil-cooled engine parts, which are kept in the 250 degrees neighborhood. But yes its true that when the oil burns, it leaves a residue (coke) that is catestrophic to the bearings.
Anyway, thats (in part) where the 300 degree number came from. You want the turbo bearings to never see anything close to the oil flash point (you want them closer to engine operating temperature), and this is a heat problem that has a profoundly different character when you are running versus when you are shut down. Basically, you must not shut down until there is no longer a source of heat (the exhaust pipes, turbo housing, etc.) capable of raising the turbo bearing temps above 300. To me, 300 is a max I would not go above. I don't want my bearings over 300 degrees, so I won't allow a source hotter than that to be present right next to them.
Last edited by jrs_big_ford_f150; Dec 19, 2004 at 05:09 AM.
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From: Central Wyoming
MP, you may also want to get the engine coolant flushed. I was told to do this every other year.
Since you got a steal, drive it like you stole it. Once you get on it once, you will never let up. In 2000, I went on trip with a two buddies and the driver always mashed it at every light or chance he got. We thought it was since we were paying for the fuel but now that I own one, I know why, you just can't help it. We have since laughed about that often.
Since you got a steal, drive it like you stole it. Once you get on it once, you will never let up. In 2000, I went on trip with a two buddies and the driver always mashed it at every light or chance he got. We thought it was since we were paying for the fuel but now that I own one, I know why, you just can't help it. We have since laughed about that often.
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MP, all of this is good advice. Also, being a 2000 the PSD have a requirement for and additive in the coolant. It is known as VC-8 and can be purchased at the local dealership for $7 a pint. (it is also generically refered to as supplemental Coolant additive or SCA) You need to buy some test strips and check the level of SCA in the coolant. I believe it says in the manual to check it every 15000 miles and add when required.
Here is a link to buy the strips and also VC8 http://www.dieselpage.com/motorfw16.htm
Now, if you are going to do a coolant flush you have another option. In 2002, ford switched to what is known as "gold" coolant or G-05 coolant. It already includes the SCA so you have no need for the additives/test strips and the coolant lasts 50,000 miles between changes (100k on the initial service and 50k after that, but since you are already into the "initial" period, I wouldn't go any further then 50k)
If you decide to go this route, you have to get ALL of the green coolant out first. The best way to do this is to:
1. buy 5 gallons of G-05 coolant from Ford (there are alternatives you can get at auto stores, but to be sure you have the correct one get it from Ford as most of the suto stores wil try to sell you the "any make/ any color" stuff and that is not what you need) Also buy about 20 gallons of distilled water (.59 each at wally world, .99 most other places)
2. drain radiator and fill with tap water. Drive the truck with heat on high until you have good heat. Drain the radiator again and repeat this proccess at least one more time (3 in all, or until you no longer see green in the water) with tap water.
3. Repeat the above using the distilled water. Again do this about 3-4 times (each time will take 4-5 gallons) The goal here is to get all of the green coolant and subseguentally all of the tap water out of the engine, leaving only distilled water. You can skip the tap water flushes if you like, just buy about 10 extra gallons of distilled and do the drain and fill a total of about 6 times.
4. Drain one final time and add the coolant to the radiator. You will now have about a 55/45% mix of coolant to water and be good to go for about 50k.
This will take some time to do, Probably about 4-5 hours because you have to drive until you get heat (thermast opening allowing new water to clear out the old stuff) each time.
It will make life much easier in the long run though.
Good Luck and have fun with your PSD. You will never go back to a gasser, I Gaaar-unnn-Tee!
Here is a link to buy the strips and also VC8 http://www.dieselpage.com/motorfw16.htm
Now, if you are going to do a coolant flush you have another option. In 2002, ford switched to what is known as "gold" coolant or G-05 coolant. It already includes the SCA so you have no need for the additives/test strips and the coolant lasts 50,000 miles between changes (100k on the initial service and 50k after that, but since you are already into the "initial" period, I wouldn't go any further then 50k)
If you decide to go this route, you have to get ALL of the green coolant out first. The best way to do this is to:
1. buy 5 gallons of G-05 coolant from Ford (there are alternatives you can get at auto stores, but to be sure you have the correct one get it from Ford as most of the suto stores wil try to sell you the "any make/ any color" stuff and that is not what you need) Also buy about 20 gallons of distilled water (.59 each at wally world, .99 most other places)
2. drain radiator and fill with tap water. Drive the truck with heat on high until you have good heat. Drain the radiator again and repeat this proccess at least one more time (3 in all, or until you no longer see green in the water) with tap water.
3. Repeat the above using the distilled water. Again do this about 3-4 times (each time will take 4-5 gallons) The goal here is to get all of the green coolant and subseguentally all of the tap water out of the engine, leaving only distilled water. You can skip the tap water flushes if you like, just buy about 10 extra gallons of distilled and do the drain and fill a total of about 6 times.
4. Drain one final time and add the coolant to the radiator. You will now have about a 55/45% mix of coolant to water and be good to go for about 50k.
This will take some time to do, Probably about 4-5 hours because you have to drive until you get heat (thermast opening allowing new water to clear out the old stuff) each time.
It will make life much easier in the long run though.
Good Luck and have fun with your PSD. You will never go back to a gasser, I Gaaar-unnn-Tee!
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