Hey guys, how streetable would a say 572 (4.5 stroke, 4.5 bore) be using:

Eliminator Performance, or SVO block
forged rods, crank, pistons
nice set of heads with larger valves
9.5:1 compression ratio
Stealth intake
900-1000cfm carb
roller rockers
and a nice roller hydraulic cam like a Crane HR-228

Desktop Dyno estimates that it would put out about 700ft lbs, and 500hp which if great, but if this is to radical for towing/hauling it wouldn't be very useful to me.

 

Well the engine would be over kill IMO, but it would be cool. I plan on building one for my 56 but much stouter than what you a propossing.

I would think about building a super or turbo charged engine for your app. It would be cheaper and develop the same kinda power if not more and tow all day long. Remember the stock crank and block can support about 6500-7000rpm. Many drag racers are running the 2 bolt block with a girdle and have no problems.

 

tmeyers has a point there.

I'm estimating it will take well over $10,000 to build your stroker with the parts you have listed whereas you can do a supercharged engine for around $5,000 if you do most of the work yourself.

Also the hydraulic roller sounds about right for a 460 c.i. but is probably too small duration wise for a 572.

Deen

 

What makes any engine streetable is useful RPM range being down low(er), and a reasonable came without ridiculous overlap for an acceptable idle.

The problem is nice, smooth low-end torque off idle, and high RPM power, generally cannot coexist idealistically. One has to trade one for the other to some degree, so you have to make a decision or set of decisions somewhere along the way.

I'm building a 500cid stroker, and I can assure you it will idle beautifully, have really nice street manners, but its never going to turn more than 4500 RPM. Instead, it will have two turbochargers to increase boost right off idle, so I can have street manners and vast torque at the same time. That was the results of all the tradeoffs/decisions I made. Mostly, because its going in my F350 crewcab, which no matter what I do to it, at 6992lbs, its never going to be a 1/4 mile vehicle. But all this torque would be great for towing a 1/4 mile vehicle

Another option for towing is to play with the gearing, then you can sink less money into the motor. There are aftermarket 2-speed over/under drives available that on occasion you can find in junkyards on motor homes. What this does is change the gearing between the rear of your transmission and your differential by 20% up or down, so when towing, you shift into underdrive, when not, into overdrive.

Not a comment on your engine combination, as others have already made the comments about the cam and the cost already, mirroring what I would have said. Just wanted to over vague alternatives

 

Thanks guys. I've thought about using a supercharger, or twin turbo but I really haven't seen much info on force feeding a Ford BB (though I did find a neat Fairmount TT project.) It would be very cool though. What would get better gas mileage between a stroker, blown, or turbo?

One thing I have to consider is that I'll be using an NV4500 tranny. From what I've read, it's a strong tranny, but 700ft lbs is pushing it's limits. Anything more and I think you'll be asking for trouble.

 

I have a few friends pushing over 1500 ft.lbs through an NV 4500 in twin turbo'd diesel pulling trucks and they suprisingly hold up quite nice, all they do is add a custum 1-3/8 input shaft and give it *%#@.
Just my 2 cents.

 

Hey guys,
Take one 460 and offset the crank for Eagle BB Chevy rods, Ross or other good pistons, add a little boring on the old block and you have a liveable 514 cu in.
Remember with a 460, always run an oil line from the oil pump gallery fitting to the oil gauge fitting to help oil the back of the engine.
Also, experience has proven in over 15 460's I have built, to use the Edelbrock port-o sonic intake it sure beats the others!
For the heads, get a set of SCJ 429 heads or a set of pre emmision 429 heads and grind open the exhaust ports and raise them slightly.

Fred

 

Well, I have to go against the grain here and say that I think your planned engine sounds really neat. This is a truck we're talking about here, you want horsepower, but only so much as you can get without killing your low end torque. It seems like you've realized this and you know the best equation for this - lots of cubes and a mild cam. Now there are other ways to get the low/mid range torque you're looking for - supercharger/turbos, as the others have mentioned. But the nice thing about extra cubes is that they're dirt simple and don't give you more components to worry about failing, nor do involve complicated tuning and setup issues, or create worries about detonation.

The down side of course, is that since Detroit never really figured out the merits of really big cubes for heavy duty pickup trucks, you have to pay pretty big for aftermarket parts to get big cubes.

So, I say if you want to spend the money, you could hardly put together a better engine for a truck.

Of course, I didn't answer your question about how streetable the engine would be.

I'd say perhaps the biggest issue would be the durability of the siamesed block in street use, but I have never really gotten a straight answer as to whether that is actually a problem.

As far as the engine's operating characteristics, I think it would run great for the street. It would have the manners of a stock engine with great power.

And for my $0.02, I think it would be a lot less headaches than superchargers or turbochargers.

 

The engine I described is for the street. Another version I have built is a 460 with an offset ground crank for eagle hemi rods. Using pre 71 heads from a 429 and an overbore of .040, a cam with a short duration, I powered a 4600# truck and left the 5.0 mustangs sitting at the traffic lights. It came out to around 492 cu in. The extra heavy 66 Ford Truck delivered the goods, dipping into the 13 second range. Yet very streetable. Torque is for the street, Horsepower is for the Strip, these engines have more torque than any of the chevy's I used to run. I am currently building a 514 for my 69 Ford refurbished truck. The truck is all stock and will be quite a sleeper. Remember the trick to these engines is opening up the exhaust ports and try grinding them higher.

 

id say the build is good but id go more conservative on the bore... 4.5" is a bit much even for an aftermarket block... and if you do go 4.5 bore be sure youve got a really good cooling system because thin cylinder walls heat up quick

 

I was just curious as to why you were replying to a post that is over 2 years old? LOL!!!

 

That is a good queston greenhighboy. Maybe he got lost in the arkives/ wish I had that much time to read old post.
He did bring up that old bit abought not being able to cool a motor with thin cylender walls. I have heard this but I haven't seen it as a problem at least noone has posted about it being a problem. What kind of experiance have you had with this ishue.
Bill

 

lmao did you see his time of entry? musta been alil on the tired side...***** happens

 

Personally I have no first hand experience with thin walls and cooling. The biggest bore I've run is a 4.420 and the block is filled to the bottom of the waterpump holes. I'll look at my sonic test sheet and see how thick mine still is. They were still good to 4.440.

I do know some truck pullers that have run bigger with no fill but didn't ever say anything about cooling problems. They did have problems blowing the sides out of the cylinder walls from being thin and running alot of compression.

 

well the original post did say aftermarket block so no thin cylinder walls to worry about, a SVO A460 block will go 4.6" bore so the 4.5 is not a problem, and the eliminator blocks claim 4.7" bore (I don't like that considering they are on a 4.9" center but hey to each his own on that). My engine is also a 4.420 bore half filled block and yes I tend to have a little over heating problems, but then again my radiator is in the bed, the block is half filled like I said and my oil cooler just isn't keeping up, my water temp stays down below 200 pretty good right till the time my oil temp climbs over 225 or so then it takes longer to cool and heats up faster.