Can Crankshaft Sensor be tested?
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New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
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From: S. FL
Darn....should have logged on earlier - then I could have put these EXCELLENT ideas to the test. Well, I guess now I have some stuff to do tomorrow!
Thanks guys...I have hopes again of finding this gremlin!
Thanks guys...I have hopes again of finding this gremlin!
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New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
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From: S. FL
Results from posts #29 and #30 above:
PIP: 8.35V w/ key ON, stays pretty close to 8.5V CRANKING (should it fluctuate between 3 and 7? It stayed above 8V while cranking)
SPOUT: 11.5V w/ key ON, stays close to 10.5V CRANKING (again, should it fluctuate more and/or stay closer to 7V?)
IDM: This is wire #12, which is on the bottom of the ICM and requires a contortionist! I'll give it another try tomorrow...
CID: 11.35V w/ key ON, fluctuated b/w 7 - 10V CRANKING, but test calls for a "blinking" light...should it have fluctuated down to a lower voltage that would have made a light blink (I only had access to a DMM at the time)?
COIL PWR: had B+ of about 12.3 or so (same as battery) w/ key ON, did not check CRANKING.
Ground to bottom-left ICM mounting bolt (near #7 wire) did NOT kick on the Fuel Pump or any Relays.
Has my hope been lost
PIP: 8.35V w/ key ON, stays pretty close to 8.5V CRANKING (should it fluctuate between 3 and 7? It stayed above 8V while cranking)
SPOUT: 11.5V w/ key ON, stays close to 10.5V CRANKING (again, should it fluctuate more and/or stay closer to 7V?)
IDM: This is wire #12, which is on the bottom of the ICM and requires a contortionist! I'll give it another try tomorrow...
CID: 11.35V w/ key ON, fluctuated b/w 7 - 10V CRANKING, but test calls for a "blinking" light...should it have fluctuated down to a lower voltage that would have made a light blink (I only had access to a DMM at the time)?
COIL PWR: had B+ of about 12.3 or so (same as battery) w/ key ON, did not check CRANKING.
Ground to bottom-left ICM mounting bolt (near #7 wire) did NOT kick on the Fuel Pump or any Relays.
Has my hope been lost
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New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
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From: S. FL
Wahoooo! The Ranger is ALIVE! I went back and started over with the Pinpoint Tests (Thanks so much Rockledge and EVERYONE who has contributed!) Even though the bolt threads were/are clean, I am not getting ground to the ICM. It was kind of an accident, but I was going thru the pinpoint test again and had a paperclip back-probed in the IGN GRD (#7) of the ICM and bumped it against the block, causing the fuel pump to cycle and a few relays to click (just as "LALA" explained in his post above, except this SHOULD have happened when I touched the bottom-left bolt).
My question(s): Is there supposed to be a metal "sleeve" of some sort on this bolt before it goes through the hole? There is the molded sleeve that's part of the ICM, but the bolt doesn't make good contact with that...is it just the bolt head that makes contact, or the whole bolt? If necessary, can I just run an "eyelet" and wire from this bolt to known good ground?
I know these electronics are VERY sensitive, so just want to be sure..
Thanks again SO MUCH for all of your assistance
My question(s): Is there supposed to be a metal "sleeve" of some sort on this bolt before it goes through the hole? There is the molded sleeve that's part of the ICM, but the bolt doesn't make good contact with that...is it just the bolt head that makes contact, or the whole bolt? If necessary, can I just run an "eyelet" and wire from this bolt to known good ground?
I know these electronics are VERY sensitive, so just want to be sure..
Thanks again SO MUCH for all of your assistance
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Hey, that's good news! It's about time you got a break. 
The two bolts that secure my SHO's DIS to the upper intake are about 1/2" long or so and include small washers. No sleeve(s).
Like I mentioned above, I cleaned the bolts, washers, and both areas where the DIS mates with the UI real good with a fine wire brush. I then applied heat sink grease to those areas (it helps to draw the heat away from the DIS). I also used a very small wire brush to get inside the molded sleeves on the DIS and clean those out.
The two bolts that secure my SHO's DIS to the upper intake are about 1/2" long or so and include small washers. No sleeve(s).
Like I mentioned above, I cleaned the bolts, washers, and both areas where the DIS mates with the UI real good with a fine wire brush. I then applied heat sink grease to those areas (it helps to draw the heat away from the DIS). I also used a very small wire brush to get inside the molded sleeves on the DIS and clean those out.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 76
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SPOUT problems
hola! have a 93 ranger with the 2.3l dual spark plug head. i get a code 998 (failure mode) and a code 224 (Spout circuit ground/coil 1,2,3, or 4) engine idles a little rough, but after it warms up, which is about 10 minutes, the light goes away and doesnt come back. Where do I need to look for resolving this problem? Any input would be appreciated, Thank you!
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 76
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technical document
where can I find this technical document about the spout system? Thanks again for your quick reply!
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more info
was tinkering around in the engine compartment and found a red wire with a lite green stripe that seems to be connected to everything, it comes up as being grounded completely, so I removed the harness connector to the passenger compartment, and when i put my hot wire tester on it, i hear the relays in the engine compartment click, so is there supposed to be a complete ground somewhere in the cab, or is this the culprit of all my problems? Thanks!
-Tony
-Tony
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
yeah, thats the power from the ignition.. if you hear the relays click(with fuel pump), the system should start.... looks like you got a shorted hotwire buddy. trace it back to the ignition, eliminate the short and get her hot again.
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