Rockledge,

Hey, thanks for the welcome. You're right about EDIS vs. DIS. I tend to bunch them together in my brain... Quick question for ya regarding SHOs (I know, it's kinda the wrong spot, but...) My brother's been getting hot start problems with no tach. Sure enough we're getting IDM missing and CID failure codes. Since the problem is only when the engine's hot, I suggested cold-spraying the ICM to see if that solved the problem. Didn't help. So, do you have any knowledge about whether the cam or ICM tends to crap out on the SHOs? I really don't feel like spending the time to troubleshoot which of the parts it is...

 

Oops, I probably should have also mentioned that the Ford 2.3L OHC "Twin Plug" design has it's own unique way of generating the seperate PIP and CID signals, since this thread is about the 2.3L. Sorry if I tend only to think in terms of OHVs and DOHCs.

Yes, the 2.3L does use a "dual hall effect" sensor on the crank. But the "dual vane actuator" that is used on the crank in this setup, as it is known, generates two seperate signals (PIP and CID, respectively). As pointed out above, this is characteristic of a DIS system - it uses two distinct signals for spark timing.

This "dual hall effect" setup on the 2.3L crank, however, should not be confused with the single "variable reluctance" sensor on the 4.0L EDIS system. They are not the same thing. The latter only generates a single signal, and that single signal is used for spark timing.

 

If there is no tach when cranking, my bet is on a bad crank sensor. If this is the case, then at some point it will fail completely, and not allow any more starts at all. Probably in the middle of traffic.

If there is some tach, or if it starts randomly, then it sounds like it may fit in along the lines of what is discussed above in terms of a bad cam sensor. A bad cam sensor will allow starts, but on random cranks.

Not ignition related, but another cause of difficult hot starts on the SHO are leaky fuel pressure regulators...

Good luck.

 

Sure...Had NO problems/codes with the truck prior to the belt snapping. After belt replacement, starting it was "tempermental"...sometimes would fire right up, other times would take quite a bit of cranking. When it did require some extra cranking time, it would be come a very slow/strained starting process...engine would turn over slowly and eventually stop (kind of like when you have VERY advanced timing, for those who have dealt with distributors and installed one a tooth or so off). When it did start (with or without the extra cranking), it seemed to run and respond fine (in neutral in my driveway). I had been getting a code "222" since the belt change, but decided to take it around the neighborhood...ran fine cold, but then started to knock once it warmed up a bit, so just took it easy and proceeded home.

After researching everything that would set a code "222", I proceeded to test as much as I could with a Volt-Ohm-Meter, and everything has tested OK. I came to the conclusion that it must be the ICM, so replaced it. NO change in above symptoms after doing so. Just for kicks, I then tried to erase the code "222" (IDM signal loss and/or right-coil pack failure) using my Actron III scanner, and now it let me do it (prior to the ICM replacement, I could not erase any codes). Since then, it has not started It now does not have any KOEO codes (just the "111" OK), but don't know if it has any KOER codes, since it wont start.

I have been going thru some pinpoint tests that Rockledge forwarded to me and it's looking like a bad ICM (which I already replaced), but there's still some tests I can perform, so will do so. Something that should be happening @ pin 3 and 4 of the ICM, is a voltage swing from less than 2V to over 8V when cranking...it's staying above 8V at both of these pins.

Thanks for your additional insight...and if you could check on the CRK signal testing procedure you mentioned, I'd greatly appreciate it!!! $350 isn't "chump change" in my wallet!

 

Hey dr76,

Did you remove the crank sensor when you did the timing belt replacement? If so, did you use the "crank sensor positioner" tool that is called out for reinstalling the sensor?

I'm just wondering if the positioner doesn't have the correct air gap between the crank and sensor or if something else is screwed up with the sensor position. However, I may be peeing in the wind on this...

 

PartsIsParts,

Yeah, I did remove the Crank Sensor when I did the belt change. It's been so long, I don't remember EXACTLY why (I'm sure it was in the way of something).

What is this Crank Positioning Tool and "Air Gap" (and how is it measured?) you referenced?

Maybe there's still hope!

 

This is an excerpt from the a 94 Ranger service manual, which I believe would still apply... For the 2.3L Ranger engine, two of the installation steps for the crank sensor are the following:

"Rotate the crankshaft such that the outer vane on the crankshaft pulley hub engages both sides of the Crankshaft Hall Effect Sensor Positioner T89P-6316-A and tighten the sensor assembly retaining bolts to 2.5-3.5 Nm (22-30 in-lb) specification.

Rotate the crankshaft such that the vane on the crankshaft pulley hub is no longer engaged in the positioning tool. Then, remove Crankshaft Hall Effect Sensor Positioner T89P-6316-A."

Unfortunately, without seeing the positioner, I'm not sure exactly what it's doing. My guess about air gap is merely that the spacing between the crank and the sensor may be critical for proper operation, and that this positioner may help you achieve the proper gap. But, it's just a guess...

 

I'll try to locate one of these Crank Positioner Tools locally, but in case I can't, Google found one for $10 at www.etoolcart.com. Ships from CA though and I'm in FL...oh well, what's a few more days???

Also, RockAuto.com has the sensor/wiring harness for $125...much better than Ford's price of $350 (in case that's bad as well).

I might not be able to do anything for a few days (depending upon who has this tool), but will post results as soon as I can.

 

Keep plugging away, let us know how it goes.

 

Arrrrghhhh...just finished installing the new Crankshaft Position Sensor (which came with the positioner tool!) and still nuthin', zero, zilch Still no fuel injector pulse or spark. I guess I can go back and start testing all the harness wires again, but is there a need to? I already replaced the CRK sensor, the ICM, and the PCM (I didn't mention this before, cuz it was just a non-logical purchase...but at the time nothing was making sense!). Per all the testing procedures, coils are fine...

This dang $25 timing belt is now approaching $350 (w/o my time figured in!) What's left to check/replace???

ANY ideas welcomed

 

A bad ground in the ignition somewhere? What else could it be? Grounds are critical.

For example, I know that on my SHO, the two bottom screws on the DIS module (a/k/a ICM) are ground screws, and if they are corroded or loose, ignition problems arise. In fact, when I had my DIS module off I wire brushed the screws and the metal mounting area, and then I used heat sink grease (NOT dielectric grease) where it mates to the upper intake, that is how important it is.

 

I'll double-check those. The ICM module for the Ranger also gets grounded by it's mounting screws (I believe the bottom as well).

I did use DIELECTRIC on the ICM...where do you buy Heat Sink grease? Does it go by another name? It seems like all the local Discount / Pep Boys/ AutoZones just have the RTV-related products...it took a few trips to find the dielectric.

Thanks!

 

Heat sink grease can be found in most computer and/or electronics stores.

 

I don't know if this will help, but the following is a diagnostic test procedure for the DIS system on the Taurus SHO. The SHO’s DIS operates similarly to your 2.3L DIS, as I've mentioned. You might have to figure out some things for yourself, such as wire colors and such. But the fundamental test procedure is sound, and it might give you some more ideas. I know it has helped quite a few SHO owners with their DIS issues. So, FWIW:

First of all a couple of precautions.

1. Always connect or disconnect connections or test leads with the ignition OFF. Before switching test functions, say from an ohms resistance test to a voltage test, disconnect the test leads.

2. Use only an LED (Light Emitting Diode) test lamp. Do not use a test probe with an incandescent bulb for testing circuits containing electronic components.

3. Use only a Digital Multi meter (DMM) to check circuits resistance or continuity on electronic (solid state) components. Use only a high quality DMM having high input impedance (at least 10 megohm). Do NOT use an analog (swing needle) meter to check circuit resistance or continuity on electronic components.

The above sage advice, regarding testing and working on electronic components, is attributable to Steve (projectSHO89), and SHOZ123. Thanks guys.

All that having been said, here is how to test your CPS, (aka PIP or CKP) to control unit. Connect a DMM or LED test light between the PIP wire (DB) and the negative battery terminal. Then crank the engine. The test light should blink, or the DMM should read between 3 to 7 volts. If NOT, the crank sensor, crank sensor POWER or GROUND, or wiring is faulty.

If PIP signal is OK, then next test, SPOUT to DIS module. Connect DMM or LED to SPOUT wire (Y/LG) and negative battery terminal, then crank engine. You should get 3 to 7 volts or the test light blinks. If NOT, the control unit or wiring( including connection) is faulty.

If OK, next test. Connect DMM or LED test light between the IDM wire (GY/O) and negative battery terminal and crank the engine. Again 3 to 7 volts or the LED light blinks. If NOT DIS wiring or module faulty.

If OK, next test. CID to Sensor. Connect LED test light between CID CS wire (DG Dark Green) and negative battery terminal and crank engine. The test light should blink. If not, CID sensor or wiring is faulty.

If OK, next test. COIL PWR. Connect LED test light between COIL PWR (VBAT) wire and negative battery terminal and put the key on. The light should be ON (LIGHT UP). If not COIL PWR wiring faulty.

DIS electrical tests concluded. (DIS test compliments of rangerj @ SHOForum.com).

 

dr76,
i had a similar issue with no fuel/spark on my 2.3 DIS.... and it wasn't my crankposition sensor. If those things go, your engine will start to stall erratically and then eventually cause a no start condition. Your condition seems to get increasingly worse (check engine light after start, gutless with light...), like mine kinda did so this just might apply.
Look at your DIS module. there are 3 bolts holding it to the plenum. The bolt (with the module facing you) on the lower left hand side (it will have no bolt/insert above it... the hardest one to get to ARGHHH!) - the insert it sits in is the only thing that the module uses to complete its ground circuit to the block. Without that, you get a half-assed pulse at the coils, but no spark, no pulse at the injectors so the jugs are dry, but the fuel rail is pressurized. Never mind the error codes cause those dont mean squat to this problem. My ford gave me "all systems go" when I had it. The best test for this, key your ignition, pop your hood, take a meter, set it to anything over 12 VDC, put the black wire on the ground terminal, and the red one on that bolt and/or insert. When you touch it, you should hear your fuel pump kick on again to prime along with a few relays in harmony, just like when you key it before you engange the starter. If you hear that, remove the module, clean up the surfaces and make SURE that the insert is electrically connected INDEFINATELY to the block. Dont forget some heatsink or silicone grease for the back plate (for vibrations/cooling). I was actually contemplating using that little annoyance to my advantage by running an eyelet with an insulating washer to a toggle to ground. WAAYYYY better than killing the fuel pump relay power as a security feature. Oh, those bolts are 5.5 millimeter.... you might get away with 7/32, but if you destroyed them like i did, you gotta grind or dremel them off, and either re-tap that aluminum plenum, or you can drill right though like I did... that worked real good and took 10 minutes. 3 bolts with lock washers, nuts and good 'ol loctite and life was peachy. Without an oscilliscope, you'll never be able to test a crank sensor, but they usually don't go unless they are physically damaged (usually by debris). Also, there is a ground wire (beleive it or not) that goes to the DIS module. Confirm that with an Ohm meter. Anything more than 2-3 ohm is an issue. Also, check the resistance from the negative terminal to the block, cause that can cause a world of hurt (for the DIS system... its a garden of microcontrollers all laid out in epoxy making it less friendly to the advanced tinkerer... sigh...).

good luck,

lala