My problem: Intermittent skipping / bogging / lack of power ect. It started about 2 months ago and is progressively getting worse. At first it was every couple of weeks, then once a week, now daily. It happens at variable times, temperatures (engine), and rpm's. When this happens I can pull over, shut the engine off, wait 1 minute and restart and it drives fine until next time. Now it will run fine for 1 to 2 minutes then stall. Sometimes runs rough first other times dies flat out. Starts right back up though?

What I've done so far: New plugs and wires. Tested both coil packs (primary resistance at input socket is .7 ohms on both coils and secondary resistance on top is 12.02 to 12.07 on both coils ).Since code 224 is primary circuit failure coil # 1 2 3 or 4 I replaced primary coil anyway. No luck. Removed ICM had it tested(at auto zone) 10 times in a row, it passed each time.

Checked the fuel system at the rail idles at 32 psi with vac.on at regulator and 40psi with vac. off at regulator. All within specs.

Checked compression. 170 psi lowest reading and 180 psi highest reading.All within specs.

Took some timing notes. Idles at 22*btdc after a minute or 2 it drops to 15*btdc for ~5 seconds then back to 22*btdc then dies flat out. Or it will go from 22*btdc to 28*btdc run rough for ~10 seconds then stall.
I disconnected the spout connector but it still idles at 22*btdc. I thought this would force the engine to run at base timing (10*btdc) but no go.


I'm thinking maybe the cam position sensor but I can't find it to replace it. It is not by the oil filter where it should be.

Found this info on rockledge site ("On other setups, such as the 2.3L Ranger, the PIP and CID signals are both generated from the crankshaft by virtue of a "dual vane actuator" which is essentially a doubled-up Hall-Effect sensor.")

Does this mean I don't have a cam position sensor? It's all rolled into one at the ckp?

Can anybody tell me how to confirm that I have DIS or EDIS ignition ?

Is there an ignition guru roaming around here somewhere that can give me a clue?

Mayday ! Mayday ! Ranger down
This is my DD so any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Lets think about the OBD-1 P0224 code some more. Since it's for an intermittent problem, it may be wiring, or electrical connector pin or socket related, so since electrical connectors are good suspects, maybe consider a wiggle test at the TPS electrical connector & the computers firewall electrical connector, to see if you can induce the problem. If no joy, maybe consider doing an end to end resistance check to ring out the TPS wires resistance/continuity, while you do the wiggle test.

 

And if everything checks out good actually load the circuit. I just use a healight bulb, continuity tests are ok for finding opens but actually loading the wires involved will dynamically test the circuit. Fretting corrosion is another thing that I have found in my truck.

 

Thanks for the response but I'm trouble with EEC-IV code 224 (DIS problem primary circuit failure coil 1,2,3, or 4) not EEC-V code P0224 (throttle / petal position sensor/switch)

 

Ok, lets go back to square one.

To answer some of your origional posted questions, we need more clues, so it would be helpful if you would post some particulars about your Ranger, like the year, engine, miles on it, any modifications you've made to the vehicle & do you have a factory or aftermarket service manual????

 

OK to answer your questions, 1994 Ranger, 2.3 ltr. dual plug IDS ignition, 207,000. miles, only mod is wheel swap to 235-70-15 rims and tires.

Now today's work: Cleaned the CKP / CMP sensor at the crank. It was covered in oil and grit, apparently my valve cover has a small leak and oil is running in between the timing belt covers.Cleared codes, ran it for a few minutes and it died. Pulled codes and 224 was gone! Got a 111 . 111 Pass on hard codes and continuous memory codes. Ran it died.Ran it died. After about 5 cycles of this pulled codes and got 222. ( DIS problem loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (DIM) signal. Cleared codes, played the run it till it dies cycle 6 times or so pulled codes and 222 is gone but 224 is back. I'm really leaning towards the ICM but I HATE shooting in the dark.

Game plan for tomorrow is to tap the PIP and CID signals going into the PCM. Hopefully if they are good through and through I can eliminate the CKP / CMP sensor and I guess just buy a new ICM. If not then replace the CKP / CMP sensor.

What I've learned so far: Ignition systems are a P.I.T.A. !

 

OK, your 94 2.3L is supposed to have the EDIS dual coilpack, 2 spark plugs per cylinder, waste spark ignition. It likely has a dual vane crank sensor to provide base timing for the spark plugs & a camshaft sensor for fuel injector timing. The computer controls the ICM & the ICM can be removed & bench tested.
If the crank or cam sensor were faulty, you'd likely have a trouble code for them, so don't get frustrated & begin throwing parts at your problem, take the time to do a proper trouble shoot, Then replace the problem part.

The P0222 is for loss of right side IDM signal. So make sure that the dual vane tone ring on the crank shaft isn't damaged, debris laden & that the dual vane crank sensor wiring & its electrical connector pins & sockets are ok, no bent pins or spread sockets & no corrosion.

 

Yes it's the dual plug / coil system. It also has the dual vane crank sensor at the crank, with 4 wires red,black,white and green that go behind the inner timing belt cover. So this means I have the EDIS ignition not the DIS ignition? The difference still eludes me. Yesterday I cleaned the sensor with q-tips and electronic connection cleaner and that made some temporary various changes (see update portion above). I did have the ICM bench tested (at Auto Zone) 10 times consecutively and it passed. I'm trying to figure out where and how to monitor the outgoing PIP and CID signals to watch them as the engine is running to see what they're doing. I'm NOT getting loss of PIP code 211 or loss of CID 214 so ? Is the darn thing good or bad ??????

 

Since you've had a trouble code for the right side IDM signal going missing & a code for primary circuit coil pack problems, if you have an inductive type timing light, you could begin by monitoring the right side coilpack output for spark to see if it's going missing.

The coipacks are supplied with B+ 12 volts when we turn the ignition switch on & the ICM switches the coilpacks ground connection to cause them to spark at the right time, when it gets a signal from the dual vane crank position sensor.

The cam sensor is busy giving the computer info on cam position & when to squirt the fuel injectors.

Later models had the ICM moved into & incorporated into the the computer & if I remember correctly I think this was called EDIS & the earlier ignition system with the separate external mounted ICM was called DIS I believe, so when I posted EDIS above I meant DIS = Distributorless Ignition System.

When you had the ICM bench tested, did you also heat it with a blow drier, or heat gun???? sometimes their problem shows up when hot.

When you posted the above coilpack secondary resistance reading, did you mean 12.02 & 12.07 K ohms????? They typically run 13-15K ohms.

Anyway, the inductive timing light will quickly, easily & safely determine which coilpack is going without spark, so you can begin to back probe & monitor that coilpack primary circuit at it's electrical connector for B+ & it's ground switching, to see which is going missing.

Have you done a wiggle test yet???

Let us know what you find.

 

My truck had this same issue. And Pawpaw was awsome in his help. Longish story: I ended up replacing the ICM after checking all the other leads and tests. It worked for a while...It ran great cold but then sputtered when hot. Tired of chasing leads for shorts and with huge rebates on new Rangers, I bit the bullet and bought a new one and gave the old one back to my dad (he gave it to me first) and said "You're a retired electrian, lemme know when you find the short."
He smiled, called me a week later and said he applied that heat transer paste to the back of the ICM and where it mounts and Ta Da! No issues.
So I think PawPaw is on the right track. Electronics can do goofy things under heat. I was kinda mad at myself but I am enjoying my new truck too much to regret it. Good luck.

Eric

 

Update: RANGER FIXED
I used my timing light as you suggested to monitor each ignition wire. The signals were erratic and went out completely at times. So, with this clue along with the others all pointing towards the ICM(even though Auto Zone tested mine 10 times consecutively and said it passed) I installed a new ICM and problem solved ! Thanks paw paw for your advice and hopefully someone else can review my troubleshooting and results to assist them in their repair project.

 

OK, good trouble shooting find, fix, feedback & to hear your on the road again!!!!!!

 

I had the eec IV code 224 i replaced spark plugs and words tested my coil packs and even had autozone test my ignition Control Module 4 times it tested fine. After reading this i decided it was worth a shot, after replacing the icm even though it tested well while hot and under normal conditions my check engine light went away and everything seems fine again

 

Welcome to FTE.
Good to hear the info here proved useful in your making an "educated guess" & that so far it seems to be bearing fruit!!!!