Are any of the 1V carbs used on the 300s over the years better than others? Or is my best bet to use an adapter and a 2v carb?

 

Thats what I'd like to do get that adapter. Is there any where besides Clifford that I can get one?

 

yeah carquest sells one make by TD performance PN# 2025

 

Hmm thanks Luptons. You dont happen to know how much do you?

 

I think its less that $20........I cant remember that well its been a bit since i called to check on it

 

Wow nice, thanks! I think I might pick one of those up one of these days. Seems like it would be nice way to add a little power.

 

My Autolite 1101A has been the best 1-bbl carb I've ever had, it's easy to maintain and it's real easy to tune.

 

Not to disagree wth fordinlinesix's experience, but the 1101 is not considered that great a carb in terms of performance and fuel economy. For the best fuel economy, without regard to performance, the later Carter YF, from 68-72 or so is considered the best way to go. Later YF years started to sprout all sorts of pollution control vaccum circuitry. The basic Carter YF is a very old and reliable design. I put one on my 240 and was immediately impressed with the improvement over the 1101.

For better performance, assuming you are willing to stop at the pump more often, there are all sorts of choices. The carb adaptors will get you some help, but really, the stock intake manifold is the limiting point (as well as the stock exhaust). If you are dead set on defeating Fords original design (which admittedly, was biased towards fuel economy and cheap production), then a new intake (offy or clifford) and a small 4 barrel is the better route. You'll get decent fuel economy (but not as good as a 1bbl) and a nice performace boost with an offenhauser DP intake and a 390cfm Holley 4 bbl carb. But then you'll want to put headers or cast EFI exhaust manifolds on too, cause the next performace boost you get with better exhaust will be even cheaper and sweeter. And pretty soon you arrive at the point where you ask yourself why you are doing all this to a straight 6 instead of a V8.

For my money, the strength of an inline 6 is its low RPM torque and reliability. Both can be had with the stock setup.

Good luck.......

 

Intake manifolds are different though. My intake on my '67 240 will not accept a Carter carb, the bolts are too narrow. It's just easier to tune than a Carter. My '86 has a Carter YF and I hate it, it took 4ever to rebuild it. As far as gas mileage, my Autolite has a smaller venturi so not as much air flows through. But the Autolite on my truck is weird. It's not like other 1101A's, it has the accelerator pump linkage on both sides, so it looks like there's 2 of them.

 

fordinlinesix -- A rat tail file and 10 minutes of filing fixes the bolt holes on the Carter carb. There is plenty of housing to elongate the bolt holes through the base of the carb. In fact, all the carb rebuilders do this as a matter of fact, so that their carbs are more universal -- most of the carbs you bump into these days will have had their bolt spacing modified to go on the old and new manifolds. But you are technically correct and its a detail I often forget to mention.

What you are talking about on your 1101 is the antistall dashpot found on carbs used with automatic trannies. I won't disagree that the autolite is both a reliable and user friendly carb -- but it is generally accepted that it gets worse fuel economy and performance than the carter. If the venturi size and CFM rating alone were the sole determinant of fuel economy versus performance, life would indeed be much more staightforward. If it is delivering good results for you, then stick with it though.

Finally, the later carter YF carbs, such as the one on you 86' are indeed more complicated. Are you sure its a YF and not a YFA? The feedback stuff in the later carbs is more complicated. Pollution control stuff was the demise of the carter YF. Though I guess the real demise was EFI.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have a nagging problem with my Autolite 1101. I have rebuilt the carb completely and everything seems to be working correctly. My problem is that I am not sure on how to set up the idle correctly. First I adjust the high-idle screw down until the primary is closed and only the idle circuit is providing fuel. The idle drops to 100-200 rpm. The engine is barely running and acts like it wants to stall. I adjust out the idle needle valve, but the idle does not rise. There is a small brass adjustment on top in the front that I have tried adjusting but seems to have no effect on the idle. Is there something wrong with my idle circuit or do I just need to adjust the high-idle screw to open the primaries a bit?? Any help would be appreciated as I am new to the six-cylinder scene. Thanks, John