Help: Check engine light never comes on
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Help: Check engine light never comes on
Hi,
I have 1996 Mazda B3000 (V6) that I got new in '96. It has about 170K on it now. I took it in for an inspection yesterday. They've just started doing the OBDII inspection here. Well it failed for 2 reasons. 1. It had a 1443 code which by searching on this forum I was able to fix it pretty easily for about $90 and 15 minutes of my time.
The number 2 problem seems to be a little trickier to figure out. The 'check engine' light does not come on. Never, ever, not even at start up, not even now that the OBD has set a code. In fact, I don't believe that it has come on once since I bought the vehicle new in 1996. I never realized that this was a problem until the OBDII inspection. I aways thought (ignorantly it turns out) that the 'check gauge' light was the 'check engine' light. I have always wondered what that other indicator that never does anything was...
Any ideas on how to fix this or where to start looking for loose wires? I'm guessing that it will be expensive to let the dealer root out the cause. Should I contact the dealer? Would they in any way still be responsible?
Thanks,
Dave Schall
I have 1996 Mazda B3000 (V6) that I got new in '96. It has about 170K on it now. I took it in for an inspection yesterday. They've just started doing the OBDII inspection here. Well it failed for 2 reasons. 1. It had a 1443 code which by searching on this forum I was able to fix it pretty easily for about $90 and 15 minutes of my time.
The number 2 problem seems to be a little trickier to figure out. The 'check engine' light does not come on. Never, ever, not even at start up, not even now that the OBD has set a code. In fact, I don't believe that it has come on once since I bought the vehicle new in 1996. I never realized that this was a problem until the OBDII inspection. I aways thought (ignorantly it turns out) that the 'check gauge' light was the 'check engine' light. I have always wondered what that other indicator that never does anything was...
Any ideas on how to fix this or where to start looking for loose wires? I'm guessing that it will be expensive to let the dealer root out the cause. Should I contact the dealer? Would they in any way still be responsible?
Thanks,
Dave Schall
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
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From: Connecticut
Welcome to FTE!
Sounds like you have a burnt out bulb. Probably something you can fix yourself.
You might have to remove the instrument panel to get at the bulb:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=223330
Sounds like you have a burnt out bulb. Probably something you can fix yourself.
You might have to remove the instrument panel to get at the bulb:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=223330
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Well crap! I just pulled the instrument cluster and tested the CEL bulb and much to my dismay, it was good. I checked continuity through the PCB to the connectors. Also good. Checked all fuses, all good.
There must be a bad connection somewhere. Where do the wires from the CEL go? One of them must go to ground right? If it weren't dark out now I'd test it. And the other must go to the brain right? Any ideas?
Dave
There must be a bad connection somewhere. Where do the wires from the CEL go? One of them must go to ground right? If it weren't dark out now I'd test it. And the other must go to the brain right? Any ideas?
Dave
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
Power is supplied to the MIL whenever the ignition switch is in the run or crank position. The MIL will remain on in the run/crank mode as a bulb check until the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal is detected.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
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