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has any one used any of the royal purple products? i bought an 86 capri from a friend of mine with a nasty 347 stroker in it. the machinist who built the motor for my buddie said to use amile 20w-50, i thought that was odd. now all we have is a pile of top end parts with smoked rings and cylinders. i'm having a motor built by D&D motor sports and don't want to loose this one like my buddie so i'm looking for a good oil. there were other problems besides the oil that caused the failure of the first motor. i know this because i took the motor to the machiniest i deal with and he verified that as well as MSD and mellings. any info that could be of help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
I've never heard of amile oil before, do you mean Amzoil?
20w50 is for old worn out motors with rattling rod or main bearings. Top end parts like piston rings, pistons, and the entire valve train do not like it. Not enough is squirted out of the small hole between the rod caps and the rods up to the cylinder walls. That's why it smoked your rings.
10w30 is a good weight. It's thick enough to keep your bearings happy, and thin enough to keep the top end happy.
Really if it was me, I'd look for a 10w30 diesel rated dino oil. That'll provide more protection than you'll ever need, and will keep your engine clean. It'll have the CH-4 / CI-4, and SL ratings. Some names to look for are Shell Rotella, Mystik JT-8, Chevron Delo, and Mobil Delvac.
A 347 stroker in a Capri? I'm surprized the car has held together. If I had this engine in any car and I was running it hard as you apparently do, there is only one oil to use. Put Redline in the engine and don't look back. Redline has LOTS of moly for the barrier lube state which is where this engine is going to live. For this application, all others will pale by comparison. Either that or learn to drive it easy- yeah, right!
i thought about the red line oils to. my local shop has red line and says he uses it in all his toys wiyh out a problem. as for the capri we have had problems with the headers hitting the strut towers but MAC sent me a new set that they tweeked a little bit. now i'm just waiting for my bottom end to come in from D&D motorsports so i can try this again. i can already see the 8.8 in the rear blowing up so that's my next project. as for taking it easy ............ uhhhhh riiiiight. thanks alot guys.
I have used 20W50 in perfectly good engines. A few years ago I had a Taurus and for two summers I ran 20W50. The engine continued to run fine before and after. Many people use 20W50 in perfectly good engines in the summer with no problems. The reality is there is very little need for oils such as 20W50. I no longer play oil weight games 5W30 or 10W30 work year round. I would say the machinist is a moron but his recommendation (incorrect recommendation) did not kill the engine his poor work did.
you wan't to hear a realy good one. he forgot to put the cam plug in the back of the block. i didn't notice it because my buddie put the flywheel on it before he droped the motor off to me for install in the car.