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All of a sudden, my Aerostar has become fussy on when it wants to start. Some days it will start in Park and other days, it will only start in Neutral. When it won't start, I can hear the relay clicking, I then drop it down into Neutral and it fires up ok. I've taken it to Canadian Tire but since they get it to start up without any hassles, they can't tell me exactly what it is. In the Hayes manual, it shows a Park Switch on the transmission, could this be the source of my problems, and if so, how hard is it to change. They make mention of a "special" Ford tool needed to change it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Well the Park/Neutral Start Switch requires a deep socket to remove it, to clear the plug contacts. It is on the top left of the transmission. As your van starts in neutral, (looking at a schematic here in Haynes) the problem appears to be a worn out switch, as the same wiring is used for both starts. I would guess it is a bitch to change.
Thanks. I kind of figured it was that, I just wanted a second opinion on it before I invested an entire day into changing it. Just like everything else on that van, if something mechanical/electrical goes, it's impossible to change it, so I guess this park/neutral switch shouldn't be any different.
Well, it's now official...the van will not start on Park, it'll only start in Neutral. My question is, is there going to come a time when it won't even start in Neutral? I'm not sure when I'll get it into the shop and I'm curious to know if it's going to crap out entirely.
if it gets that bad, then you will more then likely have to do it the fun way, and use a screwdriver across the solenoid to start it.......if it gets that bad
I just read another post about the same problem and someone suggested it was the ignition switch. How can I test for both of these and determine which one is the real problem?
According to the ever ruputable Haynes `Typical starter motor circuit wiring diagram' <cough>
There is a red wire with a light blue stripe leaving the starter relay coil (it is grounded on the other side of the coil), this goes to a connecter somewhere. It emerges on the other side of that connecter as a white wire with a pink stripe, this goes straight to the top of the switch on the transmission. The other wire on the switch (there are only two on it) is a red wire with a light blue stripe, this heads towards the ignition switch, where it is a white wire with a pink strip. On the way it has gone through two connecters, and has a branch in between them, a light blue wire with a yellow stripe, this goes to the PCM. So it would appear, as the same circuit is used, that PARK and NEUTRAL could only function differently, if the switch on the transmission was faulty, or whatever gubbins in the transmission operates it.
Before you go, and start changing switches, check the linkage adjustment first. It could just that simple, and the internal linkage is not making contact to activate the switch. Any good manual wil give you instructions on how to make the adjustment. This is what it is sounding like. If the switch itself were shot, you wouldn't be able to start it in neutral either.
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