Front main seal replacement
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New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 18
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From: High Point, NC
Front main seal replacement
Need some info on replacing a front main seal on a '97 3.0L V6 (Vulcan) in my Ranger. It's starting to leak pretty bad, and I need to replace it. I know the part isn't to expensive, and that I can replace it with the engine still in the truck. I also know that the bolt is opposite threaded (needs to be turned in a clockwise direction to loosen).
What I need to know is, what else do I need to do in order to get the old seal out, and new one in (and any special tools). My cheap Chiltons Manual doesn't cover it for what I need to do.
Possibly a step by step would help- and tips too.
How much of the external componentry needs to come off to access the seal.
Thanks,
Dean
What I need to know is, what else do I need to do in order to get the old seal out, and new one in (and any special tools). My cheap Chiltons Manual doesn't cover it for what I need to do.
Possibly a step by step would help- and tips too.
How much of the external componentry needs to come off to access the seal.
Thanks,
Dean
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
It's pretty straightforward on the Ranger 3.0L:
- Remove the air cleaner outlet tube assembly and the drive belt. Hayne's recommends you also remove the radiator, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary;
- Remove the four pulley-to-damper retaining bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley;
- Remove the crankshaft vibration damper bolt and washer;
- Remove crankshaft vibration damper using a puller you can rent from AutoZone or Napa.
- Pry the crankshaft front seal with a screwdriver from engine front cover being carful not to damage sourrounding area or crank.
- Lube the new seal with something like silicone grease or even motor oil before you install it.
- When I replaced the crank seal on my Taurus SHO, I used a small length of PVC pipe of the proper diameter to help press the seal back in flush and even.
- Install the crank bolt and washer and tighten to 125-165 Nm (92-122 lb-ft);
- Position crankshaft pulley and install the 4 attaching bolts. Tighten to 32 Nm (24 lb-ft);
- Button it back up and you should be good to go.
P.S. My Taurus' crank bolt was not opposite thread.
- Remove the air cleaner outlet tube assembly and the drive belt. Hayne's recommends you also remove the radiator, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary;
- Remove the four pulley-to-damper retaining bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley;
- Remove the crankshaft vibration damper bolt and washer;
- Remove crankshaft vibration damper using a puller you can rent from AutoZone or Napa.
- Pry the crankshaft front seal with a screwdriver from engine front cover being carful not to damage sourrounding area or crank.
- Lube the new seal with something like silicone grease or even motor oil before you install it.
- When I replaced the crank seal on my Taurus SHO, I used a small length of PVC pipe of the proper diameter to help press the seal back in flush and even.
- Install the crank bolt and washer and tighten to 125-165 Nm (92-122 lb-ft);
- Position crankshaft pulley and install the 4 attaching bolts. Tighten to 32 Nm (24 lb-ft);
- Button it back up and you should be good to go.
P.S. My Taurus' crank bolt was not opposite thread.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 18
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From: High Point, NC
Thanks a TON, Rockledge!
That's what I was looking for. Do I need to mark the location of the vibration dampener, or anything else, so it goes back on in sinc?
Is the timing belt affected at all when replacing the seal? I didn't see it mentioned in your list, but just wanted to make sure?
Thanks,
Dean
That's what I was looking for. Do I need to mark the location of the vibration dampener, or anything else, so it goes back on in sinc?
Is the timing belt affected at all when replacing the seal? I didn't see it mentioned in your list, but just wanted to make sure?
Thanks,
Dean
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Dean,
There is no timing belt on the 3.0L Vulcan engine, so you are OK there (unlike my Taurus SHO, which has a Yamaha 3.0L DOHC engine that uses a belt).
I think there is some kind of slot/key arrangement on the crank, pulley & damper that causes the pulley and damper to slide onto the crank only one way. That is how it is on my SHO. But marking it wouldn't take much, so you should probably just go ahead and do it.
BTW, the crank bolt on my 3.0L was on very tight. I had to use the "starter bump" method to get it off, which entails putting a good strong socket and breaker bar on the bolt, resting the breaker bar against the subframe, pulling the electrical connector off the coilpack (so the engine does not fire up), and then giving the iginition a quick turn of the key, just enough to engage the starter. The force of the cranking engine is plenty strong to loosen the bolt. Don't know if you are going to run into the same problem or how this method would have to be adapted to the Ranger, but I figured I'd mention it.
There is no timing belt on the 3.0L Vulcan engine, so you are OK there (unlike my Taurus SHO, which has a Yamaha 3.0L DOHC engine that uses a belt).
I think there is some kind of slot/key arrangement on the crank, pulley & damper that causes the pulley and damper to slide onto the crank only one way. That is how it is on my SHO. But marking it wouldn't take much, so you should probably just go ahead and do it.
BTW, the crank bolt on my 3.0L was on very tight. I had to use the "starter bump" method to get it off, which entails putting a good strong socket and breaker bar on the bolt, resting the breaker bar against the subframe, pulling the electrical connector off the coilpack (so the engine does not fire up), and then giving the iginition a quick turn of the key, just enough to engage the starter. The force of the cranking engine is plenty strong to loosen the bolt. Don't know if you are going to run into the same problem or how this method would have to be adapted to the Ranger, but I figured I'd mention it.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: High Point, NC
Thanks to you both!
Will an impact gun be able to take that bolt off, instead of your "starter pump" method?
I was told by an old Ford service manager friend that the bolt is threaded backwards at the crank. Is this correct, or is it normal threaded like your SHO?
Anyone?
Dean
Will an impact gun be able to take that bolt off, instead of your "starter pump" method?
I was told by an old Ford service manager friend that the bolt is threaded backwards at the crank. Is this correct, or is it normal threaded like your SHO?
Anyone?
Dean
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
My Sable 3.0 - 87 w/220K is right hand threaded. BY the way the manual suggests to put some silicone RTV into the keyway for the damper .. I guess to impede oil seeping down the keyway and coming out the front.
tom
tom
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 18
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From: High Point, NC
Thanks for all the help guys. I did it a couple saturdays ago. It was actually a very easy replacement with the right tools. Rented the damper puller and installer from A.Z. and had the old one out and new one in in less than 1/2 hour. Actually, I had already removed the bumper, grill and radiator a couple days before for easier access, so I'm not counting that.
Thanks,
Dean
Thanks,
Dean
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1st Gear
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BTW, the crank bolt on my 3.0L was on very tight. I had to use the "starter bump" method to get it off, which entails putting a good strong socket and breaker bar on the bolt, resting the breaker bar against the subframe, pulling the electrical connector off the coilpack (so the engine does not fire up), and then giving the iginition a quick turn of the key, just enough to engage the starter. The force of the cranking engine is plenty strong to loosen the bolt. Don't know if you are going to run into the same problem or how this method would have to be adapted to the Ranger, but I figured I'd mention it.[/QUOTE]
I had to do this method in my Ranger, but it wasn't difficult at all. Breaker bar on the frame, bump the starter, remove bolt by hand.
I had to do this method in my Ranger, but it wasn't difficult at all. Breaker bar on the frame, bump the starter, remove bolt by hand.
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