true dual exahust troubles (possibly engine???)
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Senior User
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From: Southern Minnesota
true dual exahust troubles (possibly engine???)
i have a 1984 f-150 with a 302 and i recently put true dual exhaust on it removed the cats and have two short glass packs (can you say loud) so anyway on my truck because of the fuel tanks they had to run both pipes down both sides then over the axle and then over to the drivers side with the one and this winter when i would start it up cold it would really smoke out of the passenger side and not much out of the drivers side and if you put your hand over the passenger side it would blow your hand away but the drivers side it didnt blow out much there are no leaks and im wondering is it out of timing or something cause it runs great and i just dont understand it i dont know if anyone has had these same problems but its been puzzling me and my friends i just replaced the plugs and wires and it just seems like its only running on one side (the way the exhaust is ) but it runs good and doesnt miss so that couldnt be the case If i had to guess i would think it is timing but im not sure
Can anyone help????
THanks marcus
Can anyone help????
THanks marcus
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 167
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From: Omaha, NE
It sounds to me that from the way you asked your question that you
had the problems you described with the old exhaust, is this correct?
If so, it sounds like your truck already had true duals, you just got rid
of the cats (I noticed you stated plural with cats).
As for the smoke on start up, if this is only happening on start up and
clears up after the engine is running, this usually means that side of the
engine has a bad or leaky valve seal.
When you shut the engine off and the oil bleeds back down to the oil
pan, you have a small amount of oil that gets past a valve seal and
drips into the combustion chamber.
Then when you start the engine, that small amount gets "blown out"
and you see smoke on start up.
If you look into having the seals replaced, I'd do both sides while you're
at it.
For the exhaust flow question, you might have had a muffler that had
a bad baffle in it restricting flow...
Was this problem indeed with the old exhaust? If so, have you tried the
same test with the new setup?
Scott
had the problems you described with the old exhaust, is this correct?
If so, it sounds like your truck already had true duals, you just got rid
of the cats (I noticed you stated plural with cats).
As for the smoke on start up, if this is only happening on start up and
clears up after the engine is running, this usually means that side of the
engine has a bad or leaky valve seal.
When you shut the engine off and the oil bleeds back down to the oil
pan, you have a small amount of oil that gets past a valve seal and
drips into the combustion chamber.
Then when you start the engine, that small amount gets "blown out"
and you see smoke on start up.
If you look into having the seals replaced, I'd do both sides while you're
at it.
For the exhaust flow question, you might have had a muffler that had
a bad baffle in it restricting flow...
Was this problem indeed with the old exhaust? If so, have you tried the
same test with the new setup?
Scott
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Senior User
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From: Southern Minnesota
no i dont have smoke like oil smoke im mean like steam in the winter and i had the whole system done at the same time the cats came off at the same time and they are open glass packs you can see through them so i dont know how they are restricting the flow
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: JAX-Area, FL
Would you have a picture of how you routed your exhaust? I am wanting to route true duals on my F-250 (w/ carbed 351W) and am having trouble determining the best way to route everything, seeing how I have dual fuel tanks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by Ford4me302
no i dont have smoke like oil smoke im mean like steam in the winter and i had the whole system done at the same time the cats came off at the same time and they are open glass packs you can see through them so i dont know how they are restricting the flow
not the new one.
Scott
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
They didn't install the driver's side muffler backwards, did they?
Did you check for crimps, crushed tubing?
Did you really check the flow from both pipes or does it just seem like there's more coming from the driver's side?
Do you still have an exhaust heat valve on the manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe. That valve takes awhile to open after startup.
Just taking a few shots in the dark...
Did you check for crimps, crushed tubing?
Did you really check the flow from both pipes or does it just seem like there's more coming from the driver's side?
Do you still have an exhaust heat valve on the manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe. That valve takes awhile to open after startup.
Just taking a few shots in the dark...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Southern Minnesota
i dont have the heat valve its from the manifolds back and i will take pictures of it tonight and then u all can see there is now kinks in the pipe and the muffler can go both ways its a see through glass pack so it shouldnt matter i just dont know
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Senior User
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From: Southern Minnesota
i think i have it figured out by posting this same topic in the exhaust forum
Big orn you were right my truck has the heat valve on the back of the manifold to heat the intake so its closed until it warms up because i did notice that once it warms up it came out of both so thats the prob
Now for the next question ????
1. how can i lock it open??? (because i dont feel like taking it off )
2. will it hurt anything if i lock it open???
thanks Marcus
Big orn you were right my truck has the heat valve on the back of the manifold to heat the intake so its closed until it warms up because i did notice that once it warms up it came out of both so thats the prob
Now for the next question ????
1. how can i lock it open??? (because i dont feel like taking it off )
2. will it hurt anything if i lock it open???
thanks Marcus
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From: Kalispell, MT
all that the heat riser valve in the manifolds do is help the engine warm up faster in cold weather...you can wire it open with tie-wire, and shouldn't have any problems...i know some guys that do that, and i know some guys that just leave the valve alone...all it does is trap heat in the manifold until the engine is warm...then the spring on the valve opens the valve up...it doesn't hurt anything to have it in operation, but i also don't think it will hurt anything to have it wired open....just my 2 cents...
MontanaFord
MontanaFord
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 508
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From: Easthampton, Ma.
When the motor is cold, the heat riser butterfly valve blocks off the majority of exhaust coming from that side, diverting it thru a passage in the intake manifold under the carburetor and out to the other side.
This warms up the manifold under the carb to aid in fuel atomization when the motor is cold. It also adds heat to your choke stove.
The problem with these are that they rust shut or the bimetal element goes bad and they stay shut.
If you wire it open, it won't hurt anything, however you might experience some hesitation upon acceleration when the motor is cold.
Steve G.
This warms up the manifold under the carb to aid in fuel atomization when the motor is cold. It also adds heat to your choke stove.
The problem with these are that they rust shut or the bimetal element goes bad and they stay shut.
If you wire it open, it won't hurt anything, however you might experience some hesitation upon acceleration when the motor is cold.
Steve G.
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