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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 06:21 AM
  #1  
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Your opinion please

Yesterday I was hunting for EFI stuff to swap out my carb'd 351W to EFI. I found everything I need at one stop, but here's the hitch. It's all attached to the motor and can't be sold seprately. So I would have to buy the whole 351W. The guy wants $500. He says it is a perfectly good running motor (yeah, and the check's in the mail). It is in a 3/4 ton which has been totaled. He didn't know what year. I'm gonna try to get over there today to get the vin and see what's what with this truck. If it does look OK it might be a super way to go.

Sounds awfully cheap for a good running motor. Your opinion and suggestions are always appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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1987LTDmasta
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$500 is a fair price, at least around here. usually descent yard motors are bwteen $3 and $600.. rebuilt v8 longblocks i've quoted as cheap as $700

remove the spark plugs and check for any oil consumption before buying. and if he lets you, check the compression too. i always do that before ripping out a junkyard motor
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 01:50 PM
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Offer him cash/check for $400-425 on the spot. If he really wants to get rid of it, he'll take it. Be firm and don't waver much. If he knows your serious, he'll work out a deal with you. Make sure you get all the wiring needed and anything else that is needed to complete the project.

Look at it this way too, if the motor doesn't run, you'll have everything you need on it and you won't have to waste the time looking around at 10 different places and you can go to plan b, swapping everything over to the existing block right away. The more I think about it, $500 seems like a good deal for something that will run. Find out for sure how many miles are on it and look around it for any leaks that will need repairing (rear main and valve covers and so on...) If you do get it, replace the rear main seal right away since the motor will be out. It'd be so much easier while it's out from the vehicle than when it's installed. I'm starting to ramble, sorry...

Good Luck!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 02:00 PM
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What I didn't mention is he wants mine as a core charge. I don't think so, but I figured I could negotiate after I checked it out. It might have 300,000 miles on it without an oil change! I don't want to give up my motor. It would be nice to be able to rebuild this and be able to take my time doing it. A spare motor would make that possible.

I'll keep y'all posted.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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No, definately do not give up your motor. If you decide that is the route you go, get something in writing or a guarantee from him. Without knowing anything or seeing the motor, I wouldn't know what to recommend for terms. Why on earth does he want your old motor if his truck is wrecked? If he's got a different truck to put it in, then why is he selling the motor he has? Something sounds fishy. What does he want without core?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 06:54 AM
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That's what I started thinking. It's a junk yard not an individual. Even makes less sense. You'd think he'd want to get rid of everything, not add to his pile of junk.


I didn't get over there yesterday. Got my truck fixed though. I'll try again today if I can work out the time. Once I get a look at it I'll have a better idea of which way to go. I'll definitely ask why he wants my motor. I want it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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core????

from a junkyard in mass,a 351 block will get about 200-300$$$$ core charge at local rebuilders just my input!!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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no way is it a deal if you have to give him your motor.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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Thanks everyone,

I feel better about my attitude toward the deal. I'm really excited about the opportunity, but I wont be taken.

I'll let you know what happens. Somehow I've got to get someone to run my daughter to her heifer and horses after work so I can get the free time to play.

Maybe tomorrow.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 10:26 AM
  #10  
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The guy wants $500. He says it is a perfectly good running motor (yeah, and the check's in the mail). It is in a 3/4 ton which has been totaled.
Why won't he let you start it (or start it himself)? Even if the vehicle's toast it should still be in some kind of running condition even to just to sit and idle. Even if its totally mangled they could drop the drive shaft and pull the radiator and fan so it can run for just a minute or two - those things need to be done anyway if their going to pull the engine for sale.

If it can't be (or hasn't been) started (radiator wrapped around the engine) he's feeding you a line. If it hasn't been run in the salvage yard all he knows is that the truck was going down the road in some form (towed?) when it got hit - hardly a a way to judge it as a "perfectly running engine".
 

Last edited by dhermesc; Apr 22, 2004 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 10:35 AM
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It looks like I wont be able to get there until this Saturday. I'll see about starting it. Your right, there should be no reason for not starting it. But who knows, maybe the truck had crashed head on into something. That'd mess up the front and all, but then you wouldn't know if it was a perfectly good running motor.


Keep you posted.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 11:37 PM
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I would keep looking, and tell the guy that you're interested but working on another deal at the moment. The price of the injectors, wiring harness, all the rest is $150-$200, plus the intake manifold. A complete junkyard motor out of the vehicle brings $250-$300 tops here around Houston, so he's not ripping you too bad. But if you don't need the whole cow, look somewher else for milk!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 08:04 AM
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Thanks justshootme84,

But my EFI project just got stalled. My truck came home on the hook yesterday. It was embarassing and very sad. Acted just like it ran out of gas. So naturally I (having checked to make sure it didn't really) blamed the carb that I hate. Bone dry. So I figure the float is stuck (happened before) and keeping the bowl from filling. Not such luck. I took the hose off the fuel inlet to the carb and cranked, no gas. So I call for a tow. I can only do so much with a screw driver on the shoulder of a county road.

Turns out the pump is good so I probe into the pump lever opening in the timing chain cover to feel for the ecentric. ITS LOOSE! How the hell did that happen? Got to rip down the front of my motor today and see what needs to be replaced. And on my frigging birthday! I'm some kinda P.O. today.

Do you think I can keep the front seal? Or should I replace it too?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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Sounds like time for a camshaft upgrade. It's rare for the eccentric to break or come loose, but if it is you prolly have a few flat lobes on the cam as well. I think you might have to remove the oil pan to get the timing chain cover off, so I would replace whatever seals you can access while you're there. I hate getting towed, too, cause it seems to ruin the front mud tires if you have to be hauled over a few miles.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:28 AM
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Well, it's raining and I can only work outside. My garage isn't designed for my wood shop and auto shop. So I'm waiting for the rain to let up and finish my project.

Can't get the oil pan out! I jacked up the motor about 1.5" and blocked it, but it isn't enough. I'll also have to take out the exhaust from the manifolds to the cat just so there's room to get the pan to move back far enough. Looks like I'll have to raise the motor some more. I just don't like doing it with anything still attached (tranny, exhaust, shift linkage). I really should have started with pulling the motor out. I just don't think in that direction because I haven't got a hoist and no motor stand. I had to borrow one last time.

Hope the rain lets up. I need to get it done.
 
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