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I'm pretty sure the pedestal mount rockers fit under stock valve covers, it's the poly locks on stud mount rockers that need tall covers.
I have never had a set of ped. mount 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers that would go under the stock covers. There probably is a stock cover on something tall enough to clear them, but I haven'trun into it yet.
I guess your right, I have only used stud mount rockers. The 5.0 cobras had roller rockers, so those valve covers might clear both the intake and the rockers.
WOW! Capone just made a fairly simple rocker install look overwhelmingly hard.
-CROWZF150... if your truck is still equiped with the factory heads a RR install is much easier. you can reuse your push rods, you dont need guide plates, and the install is no more difficult than changing your valve cover gaskets (most of the pain is gettin the upper intake off)
The 5.0EFI Mustangs use the same heads as the trucks, Crane Cams sells a kit(summit part no. CRN-44746-16) with alu. 1.7 Rockers- roller tip and fulcrum, bolts, and shims (direct swap). All you need to supply is the tools (basic socket set, a 1/4 Hex bit, T-30 Torx bit, couple different socket extenctions, screw drivers, and a small oil squirter.)
Here it is...
When you install, make sure you pull off all your plug wires to get them out of the way and so the eng cant fire when you have to turn it over... which ever cyl you start with, simply rotate the engine to both valves are closed, and you can spin the pushrods between your fingers, take those two off (when you do you may want to clean the pushrods off in a pan of gasoline then smear a coat of oil on em' with your fingers- make sure you get the tips... remember where it came from, and which side is the rocker side) and install the rollers the same as you removed the old ones, with a thick shim in place, tighten it down to 20ft lb and see if there is slop (slop meaning free play... if all you can do is rotate the pushrod than you are ok), if there is take out the thick shim and install a thin, tighten back to 20ft lb, if there is still slop, remove the shim and install w/o a shim move on to the next one. REMEMBER TO close your valves by rotating the eng. as you go from cyl. to cyl. its easy to get ahead of your self and just start unbolting. after you finish one side (bank), take your oil squirter and fill the trough in the top of the rocker till a little bit of oil dribbles down on to the roller tip... re-install your valve cover, and move to the other side. when both sides are complete, re-assemble everything and fire her up. your going to hear loud valvetrain noise for 30 sec. or so, untill the oil pump fills the pushrods and lifters back up. take it for a trip around the block, when you return it should be quiet. then pull it in and change the oil and filter.
- if by some chance it doesnt quiet down after 2mins you may have done something wrong... so before you begin read the installation instructions untill you are familliar with them, and know where everything goes.
Ive installed them on 5.0L Mustangs before, and i figured what the he11, why not, and put them on my 5.0L Bronco, all installs have been smooth with a few vacuum lines being the only casulties (easy fix with a rubber hose from the auto parts store).
Happy Wrenching
Will 1.7 RR's affect valve springs in any way, as far as wear & tear? The summit part no. lists 5/16" bolt, will that fit my stock heads?
Last edited by CROWZF150; Apr 28, 2004 at 02:12 AM.
http://rogueperformance.com/RollerRockers.html I was reading this, and then I saw this thread, does anyone know how to do the mearsurement to see if enough material has been milled off the pedestal, or if it's been shimmed the proper distance?
the only time you would need to shim the pedestal rockers is if quite a bit of material has been milled off the head to block matcing surface...this is done to restore valvetrain geometry...
Using a pushrod length checker should give you the info on whether you will need to shim or not.
I am currently in the middle of this installation, using the Crane Cams kit 95 BRONCO XLT mentioned, and the only problem I have is if i use a thick shim, the pushrod has too much slack(moves up and down alot) and if I use a thin shim or no shim, the pushrod is too tight, so I can't really spin it. So basically I basically need an in between shim if you get what I mean. Is it better to have the pushrod have some slack(very little, just enough to hear a soft click) or to have them tight so they cannot really spin? These are all very small differences, and hard to explain, but I don't want a valve click when I get it all back together. Will the hydraulic lifter push the pushrod up some to make it tight when the engine is on so I don't have to worry about it and just make them somewhat loose? Any help would be appreciated.
crank the engine with the valve covers off. Let the oil pressure come up and turn it off. Immediately check the pushrod clearance. This will tell you if the hydraulic lifter will take care of the slack or not.
Thanks everyone, I figured them out and the engine purrs now. CROWZ150, In reference to your original question, I'm not sure about a crazy horsepower increase, the only adjustments were to just decide which shim to use and that was all very simple. I find I have more turque though, and the engine revvs up much quicker than before, it is a relatively easy swap, and I'd say it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the upper intake manifold off with that dumb torx bolt in the center, but I replaced it with a normal hex head bolt.