Guys is there any how-to's on our 92-96 F-150 trucks on how to install roller rockers? I am going to probably buy some 1.7 roller rockers and a cheap 302HO cam and need to know how to install those roller rockers? Like possibly the preload specs and everything else....?

Thanks,
Jason

 

Pedestal roller rockers such as Crane's Energizers? Bolt em down and torque em to 25 ft/lbs and forget about them. If your pushrods have 100K miles or more, replace those too. Get a manual on doing a cam swap and READ and REREAD before doing what you're attempting. Also find a friend who's do this before to give you a hand. Based on your questions about this swap that you've made in the past three weeks, you don't have the experience (yet) to do this job yourself. I'm not trying to belittle you, just warn you what you're in for, this is not a minor job and can very well leave you on foot for weeks to come, if you do something wrong. There's lots more to this than (in your words) "throwing in a cam"

 

I hear you baddad on the experience thing and really the only way to gain experience is by doing the swap... I do have a friend who is experienced in swapping out cams so it's all good and might actually learn a thing or two when installing the cam. Will the 1.7 pedestal rockers be a good compliment for the HO cam? Just bolt them down and you are ready to fly eh? Where is the cheapest place to buy those pedestal rockers?

L8er,
Jason

 

Roller rockers (any ratio) are a good compliment to ANY cam IMO. They give you less rolling resistance, then the engine can rev up faster.

Try www.summitracing.com for the least expensive ones. You NEVER want to install cheap parts, they break.

Summit has most of the instructions for installing the rockers in the descriptions of the parts for these in .pdf form. Or they have links to the manufacturer who always have the install instructions somewhere on their sites.That way you can check out how to install them before you even crank on any bolts.

 

Summit Racing, Jegs, etc. If you're going to buy full roller rockers (not talking about the cheaper roller tipped stock types here) you just as soon upgrade the ratio. They cost the same (1.6 vs 1.7) the 1.7's gain you .030 lift at the valve,so you'll gain a little bit of power there in addition to the big gain (IMO) of loosing the friction at the fulcrum. 1.7's are never a bad idea to me. And, yea, with pedestal rockers, you just bolt em down and go. You can play with the preload if you want, but unless I hear excessive rattling after the install (haven't heard them do this yet) I don't bother. You will hear some more noise (kind of a "sewing machine" sound) over the stock rockers, but that's normal. I've bought two used sets of O.E. "Cobra" roller 1.7's and had no problems with either set. Both these sets cost me $125 each, something to consider if you want to save money. The Crane Energizers run about $180 last I checked. Good Luck with your swap.

 

Don't be suprised if you need new valve covers with those rockers. They are big.

 

On the pedestal rockers. Tighten the rocker bolt down to where you have o lash, you can find 0 lash by spinning the pushrod in your fingers when tightening the bolt. As soon as you feel the drag you should be a 0 lash. To get correct preload from here, you should be able to tighten the rocker bolt to 18-24 ft lbs. within 1/4 - 3/4 turns of the bolt. If it takes more than 3/4 turn of the bolt to get to the correct torque you will need to add shims to the pedestal. Ford sells the shims and Summitt stocks them. They are like $8. Summit and Ford Motorsport Part # FMS-M-6529-A302. They have a .030 and .060 shims in the kit. You add these in your rocker rail until you get the correct preload and torque setting. Also be sure to check your rocker arm geometry with longer rockers and new cam. You may need longer pushrods. You can do this by marking the tip of your valve with a sharpie marker and then install you rocker and lifter and torque to specs. Turn the engine over by hand a couple of revolutions and check the pattern that the tip left on the valve stem. It will remove the marker where the tip moves across the stem. If it is a thin line in the center of the valve then you are good. If it is a thicker line on the inboard side (towards the lifter valley) then you need longer pushrods. Hope this helps.

 

This will only work with adjustable rockers, by adding longer pushrods to a pedestal mount rocker will only increase preload, the rocker will not move it's bolted to the head. If it was an adjustable rocker and you used a longer pushrod you would end up with the rocker a little higher on the stud after you set your preload, pedestal mount rockers would not move.

Shims should only be used to set the geometry of the rocker not the preload. If the machine shop had to cut the valves into the head deeper to get a good seat they will install shims under the rocker to compensate for the now higher valve. A longer pushrod will now be needed as well.

 

All this is well and good, but really not necessary unless there's excessive noise after installing the rockers and running the engine. I've used two used sets of O.E. Cobra 1.7 rockers on 5 different 5.0 engine combos now and none exhibited the need to correct either the preload or geometry. If the pushrods are too short, the preload will be insufficient and you'll hear the slack (noise) If they're too long, you'll also hear that with the engine mis-firing due to the valves being held open when the cam lobe is on the base circle. There's a lot of clearance built into the valve train (lifter plunger travel) to allow for variances in specs.

 

as long as the valves are at stock heigth your all set.....

 

Shims should only be used to set the geometry of the rocker not the preload. If the machine shop had to cut the valves into the head deeper to get a good seat they will install shims under the rocker to compensate for the now higher valve. A longer pushrod will now be needed as well.[/QUOTE]

Not according to the FMS instructions sheet on pedestal rockers....it calls out the method I described.

 

But what makes sense...........

if you plane the head and deck the block you should get shorter push rods to make up the difference....if you install shims under the rockers to make it work you are changing the geometry...right.

 

Yes it would make it shorter, and yes I think you also have to look at any changes due to valve job, and if the valve stems have been cut to compensate for the deeper valve job. The shims work similar to moving the the valve up and down on an adjustable valve train. Ford specs that the bolt should torque to 18 - 24 ft. lbs in 1/4 to 3/4 a turn, if it takes more than that you are pushing the rod down in the lifter thus too much preload. If it takes more than that you must shim for correct preload. My question now is once you get the preload figure correct, what if the wear pattern is to the inside of the valve? Would you go to a longer pushrod, and if so wouldn't that change preload again? I'm going back to the FMS Manual now to re-read.

 

The only time you should shim is if the valve tip as moved...... if you have too much preload then you need shorter push rods...adding shims to correct the preload will through off the geometry......

shim it when the valve heigth has changed........
different push rods when the preload is way off......

anyways if you get 1/4 to 1/2 turn of preload run it...........I would even go as far as a full turn if it's a daily driver. The plunger has a bunch of travel, just don't float them....