'89 F-150, 50L, EFI. Can anyone tell me if roller rockers are worth the money? Are there any "adjustments" to be made when changing them out?

 

Roller rockers will provide you with less friction, less friction means more HP. You can also install a set of roller rockers with a higher than stock ratio. Lets say you install a set of 1.7's, this provides a increase in lift, like putting in a slightly larger cam so to speak.

 

94F150-408, I don't know too much about performance parts "yet", but I was just cruising thru a catalog and came across this section. The part that caught my attention said "less friction = more HP". How hard are these to change out, and what the heck does "raises RPM potential" mean? I know there is a nut holding the rocker down, but is there some kind of adjustment to be made between the roller tip, and the valve stem?CROW

 

The part that caught my attention said "less friction = more HP".
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Yes indeed.....roller rockers = less friction. Instead of having a hemispherical
friction surface as a pivot fulcrum between the pushrod and the valve stem, you have a lighter/strongr rocker with needle bearings acting as the fuclrum....

so instead of having a thin layer of oil keeping the hemispherical stock rocker fulcrums moving your valvetrain, you have smaller multiple contact (or friction) surfaces that are lubed by oil to keep your valvetrain moving.

Less surface area of friction = less total friction and better heat dissapation properties. This also translates into an engine that can spool up much quicker...

ALso note that Roller rockers with roller tips also free up lateral stress of the valve stem on the cyl head valve guides....allowing them to last longer.

More power, Less heat and longer lasting valvetrain components.

Is it worth the money? That's up to you, all roller rockers are NOT created equal...so keep this in mind.

How hard are these to change out?
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Well you cylinder heads are probably equipped with press in factory studs...
this entails the tapping of thoseholes for installation of either stud mounted or pedestal roller rockers. (remove valve covers and machining threads in them holes, I know of a few people who did this with the heads on the truck...but it is better for a machine shop to do this with the heads off.

and what the heck does "raises RPM potential" mean?
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Because you free up friction, and create less heat, you theoretically increase the engine's potential to revv higher...without the component failing.

I know there is a nut holding the rocker down, but is there some kind of adjustment to be made between the roller tip, and the valve stem?CROW
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Yes...provided you have a hydraulic camshaft with lifters...you need to install the rockers one at a time...just make sure the valve for that rocker is completely closed in order to set the zero lash (tolerance from rocker tip to pushrod)

Comp cams has this procedure on their website...www.compcams.com

look up their tech...

Oh yeah..you need to have the proper length pushrod to match the rocker ratio. Hardened pushrods and guideplates are recommended for the roller rocker install.

cheers
R

There are claims of 10-15hp increases...I have seen a set of Jezel roller rockers add 20 hp to a 351.

typical increases are among the 10-12hp range.

Also keep in mind the valve cover clearance. tall valve covers should take care of this.

 

if you use 1.7 ratio you can feel the difference, and since its an efficiency upgrade i deem it worth it. the "raises rpm potential" part means it wont flex like your factory stamped steel ones will and create slop in the valve train. 6k and beyond is wher stamped ones are going to flex but thats over 1k past your highest rev point so it doesnt really matter much on a truck eng, unless your building something radical.

 

WOW! Capone just made a fairly simple rocker install look overwhelmingly hard.

-CROWZF150... if your truck is still equiped with the factory heads a RR install is much easier. you can reuse your push rods, you dont need guide plates, and the install is no more difficult than changing your valve cover gaskets (most of the pain is gettin the upper intake off)

The 5.0EFI Mustangs use the same heads as the trucks, Crane Cams sells a kit(summit part no. CRN-44746-16) with alu. 1.7 Rockers- roller tip and fulcrum, bolts, and shims (direct swap). All you need to supply is the tools (basic socket set, a 1/4 Hex bit, T-30 Torx bit, couple different socket extenctions, screw drivers, and a small oil squirter.)

Here it is...
When you install, make sure you pull off all your plug wires to get them out of the way and so the eng cant fire when you have to turn it over... which ever cyl you start with, simply rotate the engine to both valves are closed, and you can spin the pushrods between your fingers, take those two off (when you do you may want to clean the pushrods off in a pan of gasoline then smear a coat of oil on em' with your fingers- make sure you get the tips... remember where it came from, and which side is the rocker side) and install the rollers the same as you removed the old ones, with a thick shim in place, tighten it down to 20ft lb and see if there is slop (slop meaning free play... if all you can do is rotate the pushrod than you are ok), if there is take out the thick shim and install a thin, tighten back to 20ft lb, if there is still slop, remove the shim and install w/o a shim move on to the next one. REMEMBER TO close your valves by rotating the eng. as you go from cyl. to cyl. its easy to get ahead of your self and just start unbolting. after you finish one side (bank), take your oil squirter and fill the trough in the top of the rocker till a little bit of oil dribbles down on to the roller tip... re-install your valve cover, and move to the other side. when both sides are complete, re-assemble everything and fire her up. your going to hear loud valvetrain noise for 30 sec. or so, untill the oil pump fills the pushrods and lifters back up. take it for a trip around the block, when you return it should be quiet. then pull it in and change the oil and filter.
- if by some chance it doesnt quiet down after 2mins you may have done something wrong... so before you begin read the installation instructions untill you are familliar with them, and know where everything goes.

Ive installed them on 5.0L Mustangs before, and i figured what the he11, why not, and put them on my 5.0L Bronco, all installs have been smooth with a few vacuum lines being the only casulties (easy fix with a rubber hose from the auto parts store).

Happy Wrenching

 

Does anyone know the stock rocker ratio of an '89 5.0L (302) F150 ? From the JEG'S or SUMMIT RACING catalog I think it's 1.6 but am not sure . Another post mentioned installing a set w/ a higher ratio- 1.7. How would my engine run, would it be smooth like stock or would it change?

 

Stock is 1.6 I believe, going to a 1.7 wil probably net you around 20 HP, its not enough of a difference in ratio to make you have problems with idle quality.

 

95 BRONCO XLT, the crane kit you mentioned from summit sounds good and after reading your post and seeing how simple it is, I am serious about this. I have a couple questions though, Summit states that the kit will only work with pedestal mount? and hydralic and roller cams. I know I don't have a roller cam, how can I tell if I have a hydralic cam and pedestal mounts in my heads? It also states that they are 5/16 bolts, I have seen some that have mentioned 3/8?, Is the 3/8 for mustang or just a different head?
Thanks in advance for any info on this, your post should be put in the tech articles if it isn't already.
It is a 1995 F-150 5.0 with a 5 speed and nothing special about it.
One more thing, I don't have a MAF, I have speed density, will this be a problem with the increased ratio of 1.7?

 

All 302-351's since about 78 have pedestal mount rockers with 5/16 bolts. Unless someone put a hipo 289 motor in your truck you have a hydraulic cam.

 

Yeah, those are "bolt in", no changes will be nessasary to your existing valve train set up . You shouldent have any problems at all with th 1.7's.

 

95 BRONCO XLT, I was giving info based on a worst case scenario...

But since the procedure involves no more digging than a valve cover gasket change....it makes the upgrade all that much more attractive..

I say go for it!!



Engine's do experience a smoother overall operation.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. This upgrade sounds easier than I thought. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Do these rockers fit under the stock valve covers?
Thanks!
Doug

 

You will probably need to get a set of tall valve covers for proper fit with roller rockers.