Intake Manifold Install
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Joined: Feb 2004
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Intake Manifold Install
I am going to change the Intake Manifold on my 67 F-100 390 (not stock motor) to an Edelbrock Performer 390 in the near future. I have only had this motor for about 4 months and I am fairly new to ford motors the only thing I've done to it is headers and new dist and coil. So I dont know a whole lot about these FE motors and I have come to understand that the intake manifold is somewhat abnormal compared to them on most other motors. What should I know before doing this job and what sort of problems could I run into. I know that I am going to have to remove the valve covers as well. I was going to go ahead and replace those gaskets as well as the intake manifold gaskets. Also how is the manifold gasket set up, do they have front and back end gaskets or a valley/bathtub gasket??? Basically all in all which gaskets should and will I need to replace. I was thinking about getting new fastners for the intake as well. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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First, it's big and heavy. Be careful getting it out. I recommend standing over it when lifting. Take care of your back.
Second, you have to remove the rocker arm shafts and pushrods brfore the intake will come off.
Third, be very careful about sealing the front and the back of the new manifold. The FEs are rather notorious about letting the rear end gasket squish sideways when you set the manifold down. Then you have a big oil leak.
Most people recommend not even using the gasket stubs, but RTV sealer instead.
The good part is that you are going to lose about 50 some pounds of dead weight by replacing that manifold.
Second, you have to remove the rocker arm shafts and pushrods brfore the intake will come off.
Third, be very careful about sealing the front and the back of the new manifold. The FEs are rather notorious about letting the rear end gasket squish sideways when you set the manifold down. Then you have a big oil leak.
Most people recommend not even using the gasket stubs, but RTV sealer instead.
The good part is that you are going to lose about 50 some pounds of dead weight by replacing that manifold.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Marlboro....
On the mating surfaces for the gaskets...clean the area's up real good with brake clean to get all the oil out of the metal pours..So you have a good clean surface for your sealer...Some of the guys use RTV Red and I have heard of some using Perma-tex copper? Hope this helps-Russ
PS.. I think Greg (Gtex) used RTV RED on his FE446..and no Leaks!!
On the mating surfaces for the gaskets...clean the area's up real good with brake clean to get all the oil out of the metal pours..So you have a good clean surface for your sealer...Some of the guys use RTV Red and I have heard of some using Perma-tex copper? Hope this helps-Russ
PS.. I think Greg (Gtex) used RTV RED on his FE446..and no Leaks!!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Bridgeville,CA
As Scroob saaid it is heavy!!!! I think that one of the reasons for bad sealing is trying to jockey the thing into place by hand. I am still using a stock manifold so I can't speak for the aluminum manifolds but imo it is better to use a chain hoist to install. I can't help but think that not having to support the weight and being able to concentrate on getting the thing aligned and going straight down will help. I have always used a chain hoist to ease it into place and I have never had a leak(knock on wood).
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Maple Ridge BC Canada
I like to use the felpro gaskets, and use the corks on the ends...The trick is to use weatherstip adhesive to glue the gaskets to the block first...Give it 30 min to dry..add a little silicone in the corners...With the gaskets glued in place they will hold the intake gaskets in place, and will allow you to slide the manifold around a little bit, if you dont get it perfectly lined up the first time...I never have been a fan of straight silicone, but some have good sucess with it....d44hd
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
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From: Brea CA
Try dry fitting it first. When I put the Performer on there was way too much gap on the ends to use straight silicone.
Also, use hardened washers under the intake bolts, you'll crack the bosses without them.
Also, use hardened washers under the intake bolts, you'll crack the bosses without them.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: sandpoint idaho.
take your hood off! use a cherry picker or have a buddy on one framerail and you on the other, those things are heaver as h#ll! if you want the best seal take you water pump off as well so you can drop it straight doun and not have to slide it in. good luck.
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Elder User
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The stock 2bbl weighs 73lbs.
My new Performer RPM weighs 26lbs.
I could go either way on the cork vs. pure RTV on the ends argument.
But if you go with all RTV, make sure the bead of RTV is tall enough, otherwise you'll be redoing it. Fortunately I saw the gap in mine while it was still on the bench.
My new Performer RPM weighs 26lbs.
I could go either way on the cork vs. pure RTV on the ends argument.
But if you go with all RTV, make sure the bead of RTV is tall enough, otherwise you'll be redoing it. Fortunately I saw the gap in mine while it was still on the bench.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: East TN.
ive got a cast "S" intake and no end gaskets, just a thick bead of ultra black. took the hood off and sat on the cowl. no leaks. hope to have enough to put an RPM on new 390 though so i dont have to worry about that again.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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There's a pretty good article for newbys dealing with the FE intake manifold at http://www.gessford.com/projects/feintakes.htm, for any who lack experience with them...
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