No Joke, on the no-slip, it was in a dana 44 in a Wrangler with 33's. He wasn't even getting on it. He just turned the corner and "BANG" that was it. Until I saw it break so easy, I had liked the No-Slip, too. That's what was in the rear of my full-size Jeep, and it had performed flawlessly. That was in an AMC20 Trac-Loc carrier, though, which is much beefier than a Dana 44, so the companents were all bigger.

On the EZ-Locker or lock-right, yes, if it breaks, you will still be able to limp home, although it won't be pretty. Usually what happens when they break is they strip all the teeth off one clutch, so that one of the axle will be unable to engage. Sometimes not all of the teeth strip, so it engages and disengages erratically.

 

We had a couple similar noises immediatley after installing it in our Jeep. Every now and then we get a good bang. It still does a good job with locking up after a couple years.

 

Yeah, and my Detroits bang on a regular basis, so I didn't think anything of it until the guy came back and said it wouldn't lock up. When we took it apart, that little syncronizer ring was in 3 pieces.

 

thanks for the info.

is there such thing as a streetable locker that doesnt churp in corners?
which one has the smoothest engagement? or is that a joke in itself

 

Well I am certainly no expert in this matter, but talking to different distributors, the P-Trax Lock Right stays engaged the longest and the harshest. I am thinkin of trying one of those because they are inexpensive and apperantly real easy to install. No one really has good or bad opinions on them.

 

All chirp on the street, they lock and something has to give! Automatics are the best to use lockers on. They are really noticible with stick shifts. Especially on an on/off ramp when you let off (they unlock) and then step on it (they lock).The No-Slip is the quietest, you hear no ratcheting. The Truetrac is one where you don't even know it's there, but it's not a locker.

 

Hey Mustang.....
I came into this late so, I missed the name of the video.

Thanks
Roland

 

UPDATE: After removing the diff cover I noticed some extreme slack in the spider gears and I also noticed that I had 2 clutch disks remaining on my trac-loc. How difficult is it to remove the spider gears and put new ones in? When rotating the wheels I noticed that I had some play in the gears and possibly the axles. I don't think the axles are bad but I should check just to be sure.

Can I get a whole new carrier rebuilt off ebay and swap that in? One that's rebuilt with 4 clutches instead of 3. Are there differences in the years of the carriers on these trucks? I'm thinking that if I end up with no abs it wouldn't bother me. I just want my truck back desperatly. Any help would be great guys. thanks.

 

I have the best possible differential drivetrain setup. ARB in the front, auburn selectable LS/Locker (called ECTED) in the back. The rear limited slip is pretty tight, works great. No chirping around corners, perfect driveability. Flip the switch and lock it up, very smooth.

ARB is great in the front because having an open diff in the front makes it nice for turning in snow/off road. When I need more traction, I can just flip that switch and lock it up solid. Both lockers are like spools where there is no give in the differntial, both tires must spin at the same rate. No clunking both have smooth engagement.

The ARB was 8-850 including the compressor, the Auburn was $530.

The video you can find on ebay under the user "badshoe". Try typing 8.8 rebuild video on the search engine of ebay. He might not have one currently on auction, so check the completed auctions too...e-mail him and he'll put one up for you. This video will teach you everything you need to know about rebuilding the 8.8. I had no previous axle knowledge and now I'm pretty good with the 8.8s. I've setup 3 so far and realistically you don't really need special tools, it's just more work/time consuming without them.

On edit...please read my above post..As long as the carrier isn't cracked and is within .003" of runout..than it's perfectly fine to re-use the original carrier. I'm very confident the carrier is fine because nothing has grenated on you yet. Usually the carrier is damaged when a bearing lets go or a gear lets go and gets slammed when under power. You can buy a rebuild kit for the limited slip that contains new clutchs, shims, steel disks, and friction additive. I even have spyder/side gears with the rebuild kit in my basement. I bought a traction lok off ebay that was bent to crapola and couldn't use it. Tossed the carrier but kept the gears.

 

I forgot to mention!! My carrier is fine. There are no crack or anything. My spider gears are trashed tho, garbage. So looks like I need new spiders and a clutch kit. Mustang I'm sending u an email man.

 

My buddy mentioned that my axles are gone. Although I denied it is he right? When I turn the wheels there really isn't any play, the only play is in the spiders, so what's the deal then. If the axles were gone then there would be some play right? (He's a chevy boy, he doesn't know much about fords.)