Cam Help - Danlee? Torque1st? Bubba?
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Cam Help - Danlee? Torque1st? Bubba?
I have my poor old 400 hanging on the engine hoist. Time for a rebuild.
This is what I plan on using:
Badger flat tops
Mild port and polish on the heads
Comp roller cam
roller rockers
Weiand 8010
Edelbrock 1406
1 5/8 headers
This is going back into my 1978 Bronco - C6/NP205/3.50 gears/33" tires.
My area that I need advice in is cam selection. I believe I have narrowed it down to a 260HR, a 270HR, or possibly a custom grind (I have read on here quite a few places where you guys say that this engine likes a dual pattern with more on the exhaust side).
What I am looking for is good torque, driveability, and reliability.
I know that it is probably going to cost me an extra $500-$800 by going with a roller cam, but, hey, I am only going to live once and I have already got this Bronco fixed up just perfect for my needs. I don't mind spending the money. And I don't mind waiting the 6 weeks for Comp to grind what I need if the dual pattern is what I really need.
So, what are my pros and cons with the three choices that I listed above? Your help on this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Chris
This is what I plan on using:
Badger flat tops
Mild port and polish on the heads
Comp roller cam
roller rockers
Weiand 8010
Edelbrock 1406
1 5/8 headers
This is going back into my 1978 Bronco - C6/NP205/3.50 gears/33" tires.
My area that I need advice in is cam selection. I believe I have narrowed it down to a 260HR, a 270HR, or possibly a custom grind (I have read on here quite a few places where you guys say that this engine likes a dual pattern with more on the exhaust side).
What I am looking for is good torque, driveability, and reliability.
I know that it is probably going to cost me an extra $500-$800 by going with a roller cam, but, hey, I am only going to live once and I have already got this Bronco fixed up just perfect for my needs. I don't mind spending the money. And I don't mind waiting the 6 weeks for Comp to grind what I need if the dual pattern is what I really need.
So, what are my pros and cons with the three choices that I listed above? Your help on this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Chris
Posting Legend
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It looks like you have been reading here. The 1-5/8 header would give more torque down low but the 1-3/4 will work also. I am planning on using a custom Comp Cam reduced base circle 260/268HR cam. Danlee has a post re the perfect 400 cam https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=227852 at 262/272HR which is very close to mine.
The 400 is a torque motor and builds out well for that purpose.
The 400 is a torque motor and builds out well for that purpose.
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Torque1st,
Couple of questions: Why the reduced base circle on the cam lobes?
Also, how did you decide on the 260/268?
I plan on using the 1 5/8" headers because down low is where I want my torque. I don't have a need to wind it up tight and be making power at 5,000-5,500 RPM - not my driving style. A good flat torque curve from off idle up through 4,000-4,500 is what I am after.
That 260/268 combo sounds like something I may be interested in. Can you tell me a little about how you came up with that profile and what kind of lift you are talking about. From your cam choice, it looks like we are building very similar engines.
Couple of questions: Why the reduced base circle on the cam lobes?
Also, how did you decide on the 260/268?
I plan on using the 1 5/8" headers because down low is where I want my torque. I don't have a need to wind it up tight and be making power at 5,000-5,500 RPM - not my driving style. A good flat torque curve from off idle up through 4,000-4,500 is what I am after.
That 260/268 combo sounds like something I may be interested in. Can you tell me a little about how you came up with that profile and what kind of lift you are talking about. From your cam choice, it looks like we are building very similar engines.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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I spent many hours working with desktop dyno to work out that cam profile. I was looking to optimize low end torque while producing a flat torque curve. This should also lead to greater fuel economy over a wider range of rpm's. That cam is of course custom but it uses the base numbers from stock Comp cams 260HR and 270HR camshafts to produce a dual pattern cam. Danlee came up with a very similar grind that throws a little more emphasis on HP and a little less on efficiency.but very much the same.
The Comp cams HR camshafts are reduced base circle cams that can be used with stock Ford roller lifters. The reduced base circle keeps the oil gallery aligned and the lifter down in the hole.
The Comp cams HR camshafts are reduced base circle cams that can be used with stock Ford roller lifters. The reduced base circle keeps the oil gallery aligned and the lifter down in the hole.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
I came up with a 262/272 Hydraulic Roller based on a Comp Cams 270HR. I used the 0.566 lifts on Intake and Exhaust. This produces a flat torque curve past 4000 RPM.
This is not the cam that I used in my motor. That is a 281 degree HR with 0.595 lift. That is more of a performance grind. It was ground by Predator Cams in Pennsylvania, for a reasonable price. I am sure that they would do a 260/268 or 262/272 or anything else that you ask for within reason.
This is not the cam that I used in my motor. That is a 281 degree HR with 0.595 lift. That is more of a performance grind. It was ground by Predator Cams in Pennsylvania, for a reasonable price. I am sure that they would do a 260/268 or 262/272 or anything else that you ask for within reason.
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Thanks guys. I will give Predator a call and speak with them.
I have to solve my other problem first: Tore the engine down night before last. It's bored 60 over and the pistons are sloppy in the holes and the crank is already been turned 20/20. I also think that I could make the two sides of the timing chain touch each other by squeezing it with one hand. Hmmm...explains the lack of power!
I have to solve my other problem first: Tore the engine down night before last. It's bored 60 over and the pistons are sloppy in the holes and the crank is already been turned 20/20. I also think that I could make the two sides of the timing chain touch each other by squeezing it with one hand. Hmmm...explains the lack of power!
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Posting Legend
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Those blocks are common. Get one that has not been rebuilt by some company. An original block will have a matched set of rods from the factory. Rebuilders throw rods in a big pile and you just get potluck.
Comp Cams will grind a custom cam, it just takes 6 weeks and they are not returnable of course, -same price tho.
Comp Cams will grind a custom cam, it just takes 6 weeks and they are not returnable of course, -same price tho.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
Here is a link that gives some of the details.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ex.php/t-71104
If you consider doing this, check on the availability of all the parts mentioned. If you sign on to Brian's website you can get more help.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ex.php/t-71104
If you consider doing this, check on the availability of all the parts mentioned. If you sign on to Brian's website you can get more help.
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