Carb issues
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 165
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From: St. Louis, MO
Carb issues
I posted several questions over in the Fuel Injection / Carburation Section but not many responses. So I thought I'd try it here.
I rebuild my 2150 a couple of weeks ago and since that time I have been unable to get my engine running right.
I have adjusted just about everything I can think of on the carb but I still can't get it to idle for a long period of time or stay running while in "D" at a stop light. It runs, but not very long. It will just die. A few spits and sputters and then nothing - I have to start it again.
I have replaced all the electrical components and the vacuum lines thinking it could be something with those systems but nothing.
The only thing I have not replaced is the fuel pump. But the fuel bowl stays full.
Any ideas, experiences, suggestions?
I rebuild my 2150 a couple of weeks ago and since that time I have been unable to get my engine running right.
I have adjusted just about everything I can think of on the carb but I still can't get it to idle for a long period of time or stay running while in "D" at a stop light. It runs, but not very long. It will just die. A few spits and sputters and then nothing - I have to start it again.
I have replaced all the electrical components and the vacuum lines thinking it could be something with those systems but nothing.
The only thing I have not replaced is the fuel pump. But the fuel bowl stays full.
Any ideas, experiences, suggestions?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Addison,Texas
You need to put a vacuum guage and on it and make sure you don't have a leak somewhere. If idle w/no advance vacuum iis low or very low, there won't be enough fuel pulled through the carb to keep the engine running.
Even if you did replace the vac lines (Excellent!) your brake booster may be leaking, and your heating/ac controls may be leaking inside the cab as well. Along with other engine parts.
ash
['Get the guage first.']
Even if you did replace the vac lines (Excellent!) your brake booster may be leaking, and your heating/ac controls may be leaking inside the cab as well. Along with other engine parts.
ash
['Get the guage first.']
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Good ideas, another thing I would make sure is if the vacuum is tight around the EGR valve. I'm assuming the spacer plate was removed and the valve disconnected during the carb rebuild, so make sure it's all put back together and the valve isn't leaking.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
What did you do with the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb?
It sounds like you might have tightened them down. That is incorrect.
Start with them turned outwards one and one half turns. Move each one back and forth to get the best idle. HTH.
It sounds like you might have tightened them down. That is incorrect.
Start with them turned outwards one and one half turns. Move each one back and forth to get the best idle. HTH.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 165
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From: St. Louis, MO
Thanks for all the advice.
I was able to get it to idle smoothly Friday morning but still had the problem with stall at stops...so I took it in to a local garage. Man, what a difference a couple of hours and thirty-five bucks can make on an older vehicle.
So, far now everything is running right again.
I was able to get it to idle smoothly Friday morning but still had the problem with stall at stops...so I took it in to a local garage. Man, what a difference a couple of hours and thirty-five bucks can make on an older vehicle.
So, far now everything is running right again.
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