No, not always from Lincoln cars, but made at the Lincoln foundry. Mustangs, Mercury's, Torinos, ect... used the motors too, but most of the parts were Lincoln parts. Generally, only the racing and performance parts were O, S, or Z coded parts made for a specific car or purpose.

 

Thanks everyone for the pointers on the 460. I should be dropping it in next weekend, pulling it from the continental this weekend.

I think the original Lincoln air cleaner will look sweet in my 79 F150, with the "Continental 460 4V" decals on it

Dan

 

"All the casting with the Lincoln ID were only used in Lincolns, FORD cars all had 429 in them till 1973 and then the trucks got them in 1974."

The casting numbers merely mean that the engine was designed for the Lincoln family. All 385 series blocks and heads before 1974 will have Lincoln casting numbers.

My '69 429 originally out of a Country Squire wagon has C8VE heads on it. The "V" means Lincoln family. It's fairly irrelevant.

 

Since you're taking the motor out this weekend, and have a little time before putting it in, I'd recommend between the two you do a little R&R even if the motor doesn't need it. Its by far easier to work on a motor thats on a stand, than to climb in a pickup's engine bay later on.

I'd replace the cap/rotor, possibly the wires, the valve cover gaskets, pcv valves if there are any on that year, and the oil pan gasket.

You more than likely need a truck oil pan as well, so you can clear the crossmember. Eyeballing it should tell you if you need to or not. Easy aquisition, and you'll also need the pickup tube which I'd get from your ford dealer. That is one item you don't want to clog, go bad, fall off, etc. I'd even replace the oil pump with a high volume oil pump (not higher pressure, higher volume) because of the mileage.

Then it should run a very long time, and not leak anything down the road.

Best of luck with the new engine!

 

high compression old leaded valves ? sounds like a bomb to me anybody hear detonation in the future ??

 

Hi - I did pretty much the same swap a few years ago, and it's great! Mine was a '68 T-Bird 429. Had to use special motor mounts - got 'em from L&L,in Texas. Also had to go with a truck oil pan with deeper rear sump (to clear cross member - got one off an old van - be sure to get the dipstick and tube, too - the original won't be long enough) and I upgraded to a high volume oil pump. Used the stock distributor off my old 351M, but you're going to have to get a new one. Also rebuilt the stock carb. While you're at it, replace as many seals and gaskets as you can get at BEFORE dropping the engine into place. The stock exhaust manifolds work fine as long as you don't plan to race - local Meineke shop built the pipes (mine are 2 1/2" true duals w/Flowmaster Big Block mufflers). Used most of the accessories off the old 351M such as P/S pump, alternator, etc by swapping the brackets over to the 429 - but you're going to have to improvise. (I expect there are manufacturers who make these.) As best I can remember I also had to use the spline out of the T-Bird - the one which fit the 351M didn't fit the 429, but the one for the 429 did fit into my old C6. I also rebuilt the old transmission and upgraded the torque converter to one designed for a motor home to handle the extra torque. 13 years later she still eats Mustangs and lowered rice-burners for lunch! Have fun!

 

Hi, again - I forgot one VERY important point: the early big blocks all ran compression in the 10 - 10.5:1 area. They were also designed for leaded fuel. I have been feeding my 429 a steady diet of premium fuel and I have added a lead substitute at EVERY fill. Not cheap, but much better than detonating the thing into scrap! Don't really know where my timing is set - we broke off the little pointer while pulling the engine. :-( I just use the old-fashioned way: keep advancing the timing until the engine just starts to ping under a heavy load, then back it off 'till the ping goes away. May not be technically correct, but, hey - it works!