i wouldent heat it very hot, its hardened if im not mistaken, and its just like doing u-joints you should never heat up a hardened peice, it will not be hardened anymore and fail.

 

Finally got a chance to get back at the project for a little bit tonight and was able to get the spindles off and the axle shafts pulled. I ended up using a long metal punch and a big old hammer to remove the spindles. There is a hole in the backside of the knuckle where it's possible to get at the back of the spindle, so I used the punch and hit it with the hammer until I could get a screwdriver between the spindle and the knuckle. I was able to work them off with the screwdriver. What a pita!

Turns out that the passenger side u-joint is locked up. Driver's side is fine, but I might as well replace both. I suppose that the broken hub played a role in the u-joint going bad.

I should have some time tomorrow evening to work on replacing the u-joints. If that goes smoothly, I might have time to reassemble as well. I don't plan on replacing the needle bearings in the spindle, just regreasing and putting it back together. Anyone think this will be an issue? I also don't plan on replacing any of the seals, as they seem to be in good condition.

My torque wrench only goes up to 150 lb-ft, and Chilton's calls for 160-200 lb-ft for the wheel bearing locknut. Do you think 150 will do, or should I scrounge around for a bigger torque wrench?

Thanks for tips, this project is kinda dragging a bit, but I've been busy and haven't needed the truck during this time, so I didn't have to rush.

-CPB

 

I bit of advice for reassebly, apply a bit of anti seize between the spindle and the knuckle. I have done this on every single 1 I have had apart, and it is much easier the next time. They are a PITA to get apart the first time.

Steve S.
To many to mention.

 

You don't use a torque wrench to 150 ft lbs to tighten that lock nut. You use just a normal ratchet, and tighten it while spinning the rotor occasionally to seat the wheel bearings. You're looking at the incorrect section, basically you tighten that nut snug, but not really tight, then back it off about 60-90 degree turn. Make sure there is no play in the rotor and that the rotor is not too tight to move. Basically by tightening that locknut you're squeezing the angled bearings together. Too tight and you'll burn up the bearings and too loose and you're wheel will be wobbling (which will also cause the bearings to go out quickly).

Good tip on the anti-seize. I can only use a punch on the back side for 1 spindle, the other side doesn't have it for some reason. I used a metal chisel (not wood of coarse) and hammer with a screw driver. Pryed around the edge as evenly as possible and removed it. The easiest way is with a slide hammer and the right socket to thread onto the end. I would replace all 3 u-joints while you're in there.

As for the hubs, you put the locknut on, than the little locking C-clip to hold it in place (careful, easy to break). Then slide the hub assembly into place (thread two screws into it for help holding it). Then you put a small E-clip (with snap ring pliers) on the end of the axle shaft. It has a little indent for it. Then you put the outer ring clip on (the one that is the diameter of the hub, easy to miss). Make sure you re-grease everything and re-pack the bearings nicely. Then all you do is put the cover on the hubs and put the screws in.

There is a tech article for doing this on a solid d44, but the process is similar so you might want to read it and see what you can get out of it.

 

Maybe mine is a bit different then yours...let me explain:

After putting in the outer wheel bearing, I will put in the bearing adjusting nut. This is the nut that will be torqued to 70 ft-lb while turning rotor, back off 90 degrees, then retorqued to 20 ft-lb. This nut has a "point" on it that sticks outward towards the hub. Then there is a washer that has a bunch of holes in it, and a tab that goes in the spindle "keyway (the slot in that runs the length of the spindle)". The point on the adjusting nut has to go into one of the holes on the washer. Then there is another nut (similar to the adjusting nut, but with no "point") that goes on the outside of that. This is the bearing lock nut, and it should be torqued down to 160-200 or so. Then, the warn hub assembly goes in, and the large C-clip goes in to hold it in place. At this time, there should be some in/out play in the hub, or the hole in the washer didn't line up with the point in the bearing adjusting nut. If this is the case, you have to go back to the washer and make sure the point on the adjusting nut seats in one of the washer's holes. If all is ok, then you add the snap ring (I think you refer to it as an E-clip) and put the hub cover on.

That's how mine is setup....

I'll pick up some anti-seize before I reassemble, thanks for the tip. I'm only replacing the outboard u-joints, the u-joint in middle of the driveshaft is staying for now (don't feel like getting into that right now...and that wasn't what was causing my steering issues).

Tonight I'm doing u-joints and if all goes well I'll be starting the reassembly.

CPB

 

Thanks for the reference to the tech article. The axle on my '95 is set up the same way as the bronco in the article. As you can see in the picture in the write-up, there are two nuts and a washer that goes between them. The inner nut is the bearing adjusting nut, and the outer nut is the bearing lock nut. Cool, that write-up gave me a clear picture of reassembly. I'll have to check the Chilton's a little closer tonight. The write up in my book for the F150 (Dana 44) was different than what my truck has. I was going off of the write up for the F250 (Dana 50), which mirrored my setup (2 nuts and washer), and that's where I got the torque values from.

CPB

 

if i remember right, the motors manual i have show the same setup as you have, but my truck was diffrent, it had a built in thingy that kept the nut from backing off, sorta like a ratchet, it was very interesting. but i dont recal mine being anywhere close to 70 ftlbs, that seems like it would be too much, i suppose its all in how you want to do it.

 

Well, I got the c-clips off the u-joints last night and made a heck of a mess of myself doing it. Joints wouldn't budge, so I said heck with it and dropped them off at a local alignment shop this morning to get the joints pressed out. I'll be out of town this weekend, so I won't be getting back to the project until Monday night. Looks like I'll be needed a few new seals after all, so I'll have some time to get the parts together. Can't wait until I get this all back together.

CPB

 

That's interesting. My locknut is all one piece, you screw it onto the threads of the spindle and it has the little holes on it so you can slide the locking c-clip in the hole and the keyway on the spindle. Thats all I have ha....

 

Sorry to drag this thread up from the dead, but I just wanted to add that I got the new u-joints in everything is reassembled with new Warn lock-out hubs. Thanks for the tips and advice. I do have a hangup with the brakes. I cross threaded one of the brake caliper bolts, so it's only being held by 1 bolt instead of two. I think the play in the caliper is keeping the piston from retracting properly, and now I'm getting some serious front brake rub. It's happening on both sides and it gets really darn hot after using the brakes. I'm thinking I'm going to have to retap the hole and secure the caliper with 2 bolts, but I'm going to search the forum and see if there are any adjustments that can be made to the front brakes to keep them from rubbing so hard.

Thanks again.

CPB

 

I think I may have just had an "a ha" moment.

I think that my truck originally had 5 bolt auto locking hubs, and that the original owner swapped them out to Warn manuals before I bought it. That would explain why my truck has the bearing adjusting nut/washer/bearing locknut set up instead of the "ratcheting locknut" set up that the factory manual lock out hubs have.

Just thought I'd clear that up.

CPB