manual hubs
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manual hubs
Finally got my 86 running good, but i have a problem with the 4x4 working. If i put it in 4 low everything seems to lock in except the driver hub.
So. I took of the 6 allen screws and my manual hub has a broken piece of metal that engages the gear onto the axle shaft.
Im just wondering if i can just order new manual hubs and that will be all i need? Just the cover that takes the 6 allen head screws? Also, what brand does everyone prefer? Thanks. Jeremy. .
So. I took of the 6 allen screws and my manual hub has a broken piece of metal that engages the gear onto the axle shaft.
Im just wondering if i can just order new manual hubs and that will be all i need? Just the cover that takes the 6 allen head screws? Also, what brand does everyone prefer? Thanks. Jeremy. .
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
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From: Roseville, MN
Along with the cap part that comes off when you remove the screws there is another part of it that's splined into the hub and onto the axle shaft. There will be a retaining ring on the axle and another one inside the hub that both need to be removed to get that part off.
Then I guess you need to replace the spindle nuts when going from auto to manual hubs. I don't know the difference, but you can't use the auto nuts with the manual hubs. When you buy the manual hubs they will probably also have the nuts available, called a conversion kit or something. Or you can just get the spindle nuts for manual hubs at a NAPA or something.
Brands? Personally I like the Warn Premium hubs. The only think I've ever heard bad about them it that they're too expensive. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Warn Standard hubs. I've only had one set, and only for a few months, but one of them tended to pop back to the lock position when I didn't want it to (I returned them and got Premiums). Milemarker is the brand I hear most people talking up as a good, less expensive alternative, but I don't have any experience with them.
Then I guess you need to replace the spindle nuts when going from auto to manual hubs. I don't know the difference, but you can't use the auto nuts with the manual hubs. When you buy the manual hubs they will probably also have the nuts available, called a conversion kit or something. Or you can just get the spindle nuts for manual hubs at a NAPA or something.
Brands? Personally I like the Warn Premium hubs. The only think I've ever heard bad about them it that they're too expensive. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Warn Standard hubs. I've only had one set, and only for a few months, but one of them tended to pop back to the lock position when I didn't want it to (I returned them and got Premiums). Milemarker is the brand I hear most people talking up as a good, less expensive alternative, but I don't have any experience with them.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I had Superwinch hubs for 20 years.
Then found the same issue as you (one would lock by itself)
My outer universal was destroyed and the splined axle stub would pull in, then force the lock out.
I installed new Warn premiums when I replaced that universal a month or so ago.
Then found the same issue as you (one would lock by itself)
My outer universal was destroyed and the splined axle stub would pull in, then force the lock out.
I installed new Warn premiums when I replaced that universal a month or so ago.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Only if you are replacing with the exact same.
Otherwise you need to remove the snap rings and the inner piece as was outlined in post #2.
... at least I did, when I went from Ford to Superwinch, and again from Superwinch to Warn.
Otherwise you need to remove the snap rings and the inner piece as was outlined in post #2.
... at least I did, when I went from Ford to Superwinch, and again from Superwinch to Warn.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
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From: Roseville, MN
I swear I read you had an auto hub that wasn't working. Sorry 'bout that.
As ArdWrknTrk said, you need to have the outer part match the inner part. I THINK Ford hubs were made by Warn, so if your broken hub is a Ford you MIGHT get away with only putting a new Warn outer on it.
But if you've got a broken part of a hub I'd suggest replacing both hubs entirely. Unless you get parts from a junk yard you're going to have to buy a pair of complete hubs anyway. Might as well put all the new stuff in.
As ArdWrknTrk said, you need to have the outer part match the inner part. I THINK Ford hubs were made by Warn, so if your broken hub is a Ford you MIGHT get away with only putting a new Warn outer on it.
But if you've got a broken part of a hub I'd suggest replacing both hubs entirely. Unless you get parts from a junk yard you're going to have to buy a pair of complete hubs anyway. Might as well put all the new stuff in.
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From: Northeast, OK
Or take the shock and torque I was putting on them when pulling the '50 out of a field. It was sunk to the hubs and we used two chains from the trailer to the '50. About 6" of slack and then spin the tires a bit in 4lo.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
At least if you're pulling they are both trying to move the same distance.
Locked and turning they are traveling different distances.
Bigger tires accentuate the issue because the arm is longer.
Locked and turning they are traveling different distances.
Bigger tires accentuate the issue because the arm is longer.