If equipped with an ignition module check it by replacing it with a known working one. This is the brain that controls the signals to the injectors and plugs.

 

In order to change the ignition module (tfi) do I have to pull the distributer? If so is there anything i should do so it goes back in correctly.
Thanks.

 

My truck was warming up in the driveway 2 days ago and just died. It's a 150 Lariat and has no spark now and no gas is getting to plugs. Srayed starter fluid and dried wires and swapped out the starter switch. Nothing. It was idling fine when I left it. Thaought it was bad gas but put in dry gas. I looked at manual but can't find my ignition module or reset switch the woman at the parts store told me about. Anyone? I am getting desperate. Thanks.

 

I'm not sure on the F150 (haven't check my 96), but the 89 and 96 module are slightly different. My F150 is in the shop right now, so I can't check it. Check advanceautoparts.com for pictures of the module, then look for it on your truck. They sell lifetime GP Sorensen's for $30.99 and up depending on year.

 

Thanks for answering so quickly. I had replaced the starter relay and the new one didn't work at all. Put back in the old one and it tries to crank- no spark. I will look around for the ignition module. I heard there was a reset button from the auto parts store. I am very remote on a hill and towing is 100-150 so they say. I just know it is something little and it was running just fine when it conked out. Luckily in my own driveway.

 

Okay so I replaced the coil and found the reset button. It didn't need reset but did it anyway. Still doesn't work, so I bought an ignition module. What a ripoff joint. They tried to charge me $117 ! Anyway showed them some comparisons and they dropped the price some. I am smelling gas but get no spark. I am new at Ford trucks. If anyone has pointers on putting in the ignition module please tell me. I have read& reread the Chilton's procedure. My family thinks I am weird because I like my '78 Dodge better , but at least I know it inside out. Thanks in advance for any pointers.

 

I have never tried to change an ignition module . Wish someone with experience had seen my prior post. Being a woman, at least my hands are small but it won't be pretty if I can't remember how to put it back together. Need the daylight.

 

When you check for spark, try to use an adjustable spark tester. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/THE-404.html

The reason to use an adjustable spark tester because each vehicle manufacturer uses a different kind of Ignition Coil. There is a setting for Ford, Chrysler, GM, etc.

Trying to just unplug the spark plug wire and trying to put it close to the engine block might not suffiently give enough gap for the spark to jump. So, an adjustable spark tester is a must.

Just unplug the ignition coil secondary wire from the carburetor and connect the adjustable spark tester on the end of the ignition coil secondary wire and then clip the end of the adjustable spark tester on the engine block. Have someone crank the engine while you look for spark in the spark tester. Or you can clip the adjustable spark tester to a metal ground where you can see it while you try to crank it.

One important thing to check is to use a voltage tester and measure the voltage going to the ignition coil.

Typical ignition coil has two wires going to it. One wire is the positive that provides 7 or 8 volts when the Ignition Switch is ON and provides 12 volts when the Ignition Switch is cranked (started). The other wire is tach wire and that wire is monitored by Ignition Module with respect to the position of each piston at TDC. The distributor has a pointed wheel which each points of the wheel represents the piston at TDC. When the pointed wheel is aligned on a reference point, the ignition module "quickly disconnects for less than a second" the continuity of the wire going to the ignition coil.

You might wonder why does the ignition module "quickly disconnects for less than a second" the continuity of the wire going to the ignition coil. The operation of the ignition coil follows this procedure.
The positive side of the ignition coil receives a low voltage of 7 or 8 volts (engine running) OR 12 volts (engine first started/cranked). That voltage or 7 or 8 or 12 volts is fedd to the primary winding in the ignition coil and then it goes to the secondary winding inside the ignition coil. The initial 7 or 8 or 12 volts is now converted to a very high voltage in a thousand volts range and stored in the secondary winding inside the ignition coil and it does not go anywhere at this point. Once the negative side (tach) wire of the ignition coil is quickly disconnected for a second, then that thousand voltage stored in the secondary winding inside the ignition coil is now unleashed and goes on the top of the ignition coil (where the secondary ignition spark plug goes to the distributor cap).
That is why the ignition module monitors when the pointed wheel inside the distributor and then "quickly disconnects for less than a second" the continuity of the wire going to the ignition coil. This happens very fast.

So, to diagnose a no spark situation, you must use a voltage tester or digital multimeter. Connect the positive cable of the voltage tester to the positive side of the ignition coil. Connect the negative cable of the voltage tester to the engine block (ground). Turn the Ignition Switch to ON position, the voltage tester should read between 7 or 8 volts or close to it. The reason for getting 7 or 8 volts is because when the Ignition Switch is set to the ON position, the wire going to the positive side of the Ignition Coil has a "resistor" which limits the voltage.

When you turn the Ignition Switch to Crank, it bypasses the "resistor" and directly feed 12 volts to the positive side of the Ignition Coil. So, your voltage tester should show 12 volts.

Once you got 7 or 8 volts when the Ignition Switch is at the ON position and 12 volts when the Ignition Switch is on the Crank position, you can proceed to check for wires, distributor, ignition module problem.

 

It was tough. Now I will bring it down to a shop. I haaave a new ignition module and Hall pickup, but don't trust myself to be able to put the thing back together properly. Marked all the places so I can line things up when they put the parts in. I swear I would have gladly ppaid a shop but couldn't get it towed there. Thank you for the above response Slade and your help. I actually got my voltmeter out.

 

The distributor went back in pretty easy. Have been trying to make it kick over. Seems like it wants to start. Everything is lined up. I don't have a timing light but before I pull my hair out, is there anything else it could be? It gets fuel, spark and has actually backfired a few times. I have replaced everything the book says to replace(see above post). Anyone , any ideas?

 

Never mind rotor got put back in the right place. All's right with the world. Thanks for being there