Another dead f150
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 53
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From: New York
Another dead f150
I recently purchased a 89 f150 lariat with an I-6. I drove it 45 minutes from
where i bought it to home(without registration or insurance). It ran fine except for the major exhaust leaks that robbed most of the power. I had it home for about a week driving it every now and then waiting for good weather so I can get to work on it. One moring I went over to start it and it ran but idling really low. I turned it off and tried starting it again, this time it didn't start up right away and when it did start it idled reall high and then quit. Now it will want to start when I initially turn the key but after that it just turns over.
There was a corroded wire in the eec relay so I fixed that and changed the relay along with the fuel relay. There is good fuel pressure and I hear the pump kick on when I turn the key.
could I have a bad coil, ignition switch or another coroded wire that won't give me spark.(i searched these forums for three days trying to find something that would help, but i haven't found anyone with truck that has the same symptoms as mine)
any help would be appreciated, thanks
where i bought it to home(without registration or insurance). It ran fine except for the major exhaust leaks that robbed most of the power. I had it home for about a week driving it every now and then waiting for good weather so I can get to work on it. One moring I went over to start it and it ran but idling really low. I turned it off and tried starting it again, this time it didn't start up right away and when it did start it idled reall high and then quit. Now it will want to start when I initially turn the key but after that it just turns over.
There was a corroded wire in the eec relay so I fixed that and changed the relay along with the fuel relay. There is good fuel pressure and I hear the pump kick on when I turn the key.
could I have a bad coil, ignition switch or another coroded wire that won't give me spark.(i searched these forums for three days trying to find something that would help, but i haven't found anyone with truck that has the same symptoms as mine)
any help would be appreciated, thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 43
From: Concord, NC
Are there any codes in the computer? Go to http://fordfuelinjection.com and click on "Getting Codes" if you don't know how to get them.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Louisiana
Try checking the Throtlle Position Sensor or the Mass Air Flow Sensor. A trick I learned in my early days, is to shoot a small squirt of Staring Fluid downstream of the air filter, just a small burst. Try to start, if it starts then you probably have a fuel problem and not an ignition.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 352
Likes: 1
From: Tillamook, Ore
Yea, pulling your computer codes would be the place to start. I bought a code reader through JC Whitney for about 30 bucks, because I'm not smart enough to count flashes of the check engine light and keep track of them.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: New York
I am pretty sure I came to the conclusion that the fuel injectors are not sending the fuel. I pulled two plugs after trying to start it and they were completely dry, i dumped some gas down the cylinders before putting the plugs back in and the truck fired but it only sounded like it was from the two cylinders.
What would cause the injectors not to open?
I'm very stubbord towards computer stuff and would rather not have to get the codes, but if that is what it comes down to I will do it.
Thanks.
What would cause the injectors not to open?
I'm very stubbord towards computer stuff and would rather not have to get the codes, but if that is what it comes down to I will do it.
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 43
From: Concord, NC
It's easy as anything to pull the codes, and it will almost tell you what is wrong (I emphasize almost). In a case like this, there should be some code present, that would be enough to get you started in the right direction. This is precisely why the computer stores trouble codes are for times like these. The computer does a lot of the troubleshooting for you. Pull the codes - it's not like you are writing binary or anything like that - all you have to do is count blinks of the check engine light. I would suspect maybe a problem with the TFI module as a possible source of your problem. It's easy enough to test it to find out for sure.
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; Mar 28, 2004 at 10:33 AM.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: New York
ok I pulled the codes Now what?
the codes were 21,24,67,81,96
The only one that makes sence to me is 96, which says fuel pump secondary circuit failure (inertia switch).
I bypassed the switch to see if it would change anything and it didn't. Is the secondary fuel pump in the gas tank?
the codes were 21,24,67,81,96
The only one that makes sence to me is 96, which says fuel pump secondary circuit failure (inertia switch).
I bypassed the switch to see if it would change anything and it didn't. Is the secondary fuel pump in the gas tank?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 43
From: Concord, NC
21 and 24 are probably due to testing the codes with the engine cold. 67 is probably because you didn't push the clutch during the test, or had the a/c turned on. 81 is one to take note of: MAP vacuum circuit failure (if it was a continuous memory code, otherwise it would indicate bad TAD solonoid wiring). Check the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor, and test the sensor itself. Also check the SIGRTN wire (the black wire with white stripe) between the computer and the MAP, ECT, and ACT, since there are codes relating to all 3 of those sensors, and the SIGRTN wire goes to all of them. Code 96 could be a problem indicator if you are not getting any fuel to the fuel rail, and you don't hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key on. I think it's just a matter of tracking down a couple of electrical problems.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: New York
So if it wasn't a continuous memory code (it wasn't) I should check the vacuum line to The MAp sensor and then check the sigrtn wire for corrosion.
Where would i find the MAp sensor? and if it is bad can i swap one from a v8 302?
Thanks for all your help so far!
Where would i find the MAp sensor? and if it is bad can i swap one from a v8 302?
Thanks for all your help so far!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 43
From: Concord, NC
The MAP sensor is located on the firewall, just above and to the right of the a/c blower motor as you are looking at it from the front. 3 wires and a vacuum line go to it. A MAP from a 302 will work fine - they are expensive, so be sure that it is bad if you decide to buy a new one. Continuous codes are the codes that come after the separator pulse during the engine off test.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: New York
I swapped in a map sensor that i know worked and I still got the same codes and the truck still won't start.
I pulled the gas line off between the main pump and what i believe to be the tank selector. when i pulled it off pressurized air came out. could I have a problem with the tank selector being stuck and not letting any fuel through?
I know it has to be some sort of fuel problem, hopefully something simple it is just a matter of finding it.
Any more advice would be appreciated.
I pulled the gas line off between the main pump and what i believe to be the tank selector. when i pulled it off pressurized air came out. could I have a problem with the tank selector being stuck and not letting any fuel through?
I know it has to be some sort of fuel problem, hopefully something simple it is just a matter of finding it.
Any more advice would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: New York
I don't know if this has anything to do with my truck not starting, but i remember playing with the blower before it died on me. When i turned the blower to high with the truck idling the truck would want to stall and the idle would keep increasing and the decreasing until i turned the blower off.
Maybe i have a blown fuse or weak link some where that disconnected and now won't let my truck start.
thanks again.
Maybe i have a blown fuse or weak link some where that disconnected and now won't let my truck start.
thanks again.