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Yes, two relays, one for low beam and one for high beam. There's really no other way to protect both circuits. In my case, I also had auxillary driving lights, so I actually have 3 relays. Putting them as close to the headlights as possible minimizes the length of the wires that have to carry the high current, so they will drop the minimum amount of voltage. This also addresses the weight of the heavy guage wires if that's an issue.
I actually have my relays mounted on the vertical panel by the battery. There are a bunch of other relays there. They are pretty well protected from the elements, and the connection to the power source, the positive terminal, is right there. The fuses are installed in the lines real close to the battery terminal for the best protection of the line. From there I use separate 14 guage wires to each bulb, and also from the bulbs back to the negative battery terminal.
Yes, the 1 cubic inch relays from Bosch or Radio Shack are rated for 30 amps. That should be adequate for even the most powerful lights. I think the highest power lights that are commonly available are 130 watts each, which comes to about 20 amps for 2 lights.
It's been a good thread! Although my '97 A* isn't having headlight issues yet, I think it's a great time for me to implement the suggestions we've heard. I might as well prevent (what an inovative concept!) the problems I had with my '93 A*.
Which switch were you asking about? I think this discussion was about the stock headlight switch, which is usually located on the left side of the dash board somewhere. In my van (1990), it is a rocker type switch. I think in the later models they went to a pull ****.
Very good discussion on relays. As I have suggested before to starter problems, if your starter does not turn when hot-put a realy near the starter and it will crank. This of course after eliminating all the usual suspects. But if your getting 12 volts at the actual starter soleinoid and if you hotwire the soleinoid and it cranks, then your in business with Bosch.
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