Need electrical help!!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: Acworth, GA
Need electrical help!!
Ok, had my problems with the dash/taillights. For a little while, they were sporadic, and would need some jiggling of the dimmer switch to get the dash lighting to work. Now, they won't work at all. Thinking it was the switch, I replaced it, and found this:
Looks like one of the wire terminals melted the connector. Thus, I thought there was just a bad connection, causing resistance and melting some plastic. So I tried pushing the connector onto the terminal, same results (none).
Will I need a new connector?
If so, where would I find one of these monstrosities?
Anyone have diagrams that could be helpful?
Thanks!
Austin
93 Aero, shorty, 3.0, A4LD, RWD
Looks like one of the wire terminals melted the connector. Thus, I thought there was just a bad connection, causing resistance and melting some plastic. So I tried pushing the connector onto the terminal, same results (none).
Will I need a new connector?
If so, where would I find one of these monstrosities?
Anyone have diagrams that could be helpful?
Thanks!
Austin
93 Aero, shorty, 3.0, A4LD, RWD
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Texas
More like the wire burned lose from the connector. You can remove the connector with a tool from snap-on. Just crimp it to the wire and insert.
You can get a connector from Ford or a Junk Yard. Make sure you clean the inside hole so the little barbs grab good.
You can get a connector from Ford or a Junk Yard. Make sure you clean the inside hole so the little barbs grab good.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
From: Tottenham Ontario Canada
Common problem - the headlight switch overheats and melts the harness socket. The best fix is to replace both the switch and the socket.
You can buy a replacement headlight switch wiring harness from your Ford dealer to replace the melted socket. They are not expensive (less than $20 Canadian about 2 years ago). They are usually a stock item because this is a common problem. You will have to cut out the old socket and solder the new one to the existing harness. Just match the wire colors.
I recommend heat shrink tubing for insulating the solder joints, but tape will do, too. The nice part about replacing the socket is that the repaired harness will be (can be) several inches longer, which makes it easier to reassemble the instrument panel - and for future disassembly.
Good luck with your repair.
Cheers,
Eric
You can buy a replacement headlight switch wiring harness from your Ford dealer to replace the melted socket. They are not expensive (less than $20 Canadian about 2 years ago). They are usually a stock item because this is a common problem. You will have to cut out the old socket and solder the new one to the existing harness. Just match the wire colors.
I recommend heat shrink tubing for insulating the solder joints, but tape will do, too. The nice part about replacing the socket is that the repaired harness will be (can be) several inches longer, which makes it easier to reassemble the instrument panel - and for future disassembly.
Good luck with your repair.
Cheers,
Eric
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: western pa,zelienople
cheeck the fuse, iknow what you are thinking but it happend to me. even with a blown fuse i could jiggle the head light switch and get the running and dash lights to work.
It was a bad wire in the back that kept blowing the fuse.
Bob
It was a bad wire in the back that kept blowing the fuse.
Bob
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
I had that same problem on my 94. I replaced the headlight switch every couple of months till I had a recall repair for some sort of wiring problem. This of course was after I added a backup switch that would allow me to turn on my headlights and get me home.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: Acworth, GA
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 208
Likes: 3
From: Norfolk VA
I looked on my factory CD and it lists it as connector C295. I don't think that is the part number but at least it is a good referance. I copied a pic of the pin out for the connector at
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/doug5g
Hopefully it might help also. You might have have to play with the image to make it big enough to read. Or just copy it and open it in "PAINT"
Doug
93 AERO 125K
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/doug5g
Hopefully it might help also. You might have have to play with the image to make it big enough to read. Or just copy it and open it in "PAINT"
Doug
93 AERO 125K
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
agelder - I don't right offhand. I could easily go take a couple pictures and give you the wire colors that I tapped into. I routed the switch into the vent. There wasn't really any air blockage from the switch, and I could easily remove the air director to get to it if my lights died.
Let me know.
Let me know.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 209
From: SoCal
I still think the best fix (after replacing the burnt out switch and connector) is to install relays to switch the headlights. It will take the load off of the main headlight switch, the high beam switch, and the inadequate wiring and connectors.
The simplest relay installation is to intercept the wires going to the headlights in the harness in front of the battery. You can install the relays on the flat panel behind the battery.
The simplest relay installation is to intercept the wires going to the headlights in the harness in front of the battery. You can install the relays on the flat panel behind the battery.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Okay...
<P>
New switch and new connector/harness right?
<P>
Do you get the same results by fiddiling with the dimmer switch as you did before? <BR>
One thing I would do when replacing my switch would be to snap on the connector, then use a small flathead to ensure the individual connections were made, using a small penlight also helps to see if any are misaligned.
<LI>If that still doesn't change anything, inspect the wiring going back into the dash for any broken or "hot spots" (you never know).
<LI>I'd also check all the fuses, just in case.
<P>
If that still doesn't work, I'd get a jumper wire and a test light, then locate which wire coming in is the power wire, then jump it to see which wire going out lights up what. If you don't get anything, or fail to find a power wire, you must have a bad fuse. If you can light up your headlights, but not parking or dash lights, it's got to be something inbetween the switch and the actual lights. Perhaps a connector somewhere.
<P>
Just my two cents, hope some of it is helpful.
<P>
New switch and new connector/harness right?
<P>
Do you get the same results by fiddiling with the dimmer switch as you did before? <BR>
One thing I would do when replacing my switch would be to snap on the connector, then use a small flathead to ensure the individual connections were made, using a small penlight also helps to see if any are misaligned.
<LI>If that still doesn't change anything, inspect the wiring going back into the dash for any broken or "hot spots" (you never know).
<LI>I'd also check all the fuses, just in case.
<P>
If that still doesn't work, I'd get a jumper wire and a test light, then locate which wire coming in is the power wire, then jump it to see which wire going out lights up what. If you don't get anything, or fail to find a power wire, you must have a bad fuse. If you can light up your headlights, but not parking or dash lights, it's got to be something inbetween the switch and the actual lights. Perhaps a connector somewhere.
<P>
Just my two cents, hope some of it is helpful.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
justaworktruck
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
Oct 14, 2016 04:20 PM
74 F350 SCS
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Apr 14, 2015 03:53 PM
71F250camper
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Dec 26, 2005 06:25 PM