Replacing King pins
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Replacing King pins
Can anyone help me? I was replacing the king pins in my 61 f-100 and I got the old ones out okay but I'm having alot of trouble getting the new ones in. Does anyone have any I deas on how to get them in with out beating the hell outta them?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Iowa
They make a special driver for them. You should be able to rent one at auto zone. They usually charge a small fee, but you get it back when you bring the tool back.
Also put the bushings in the freezer for about 24 yrs and that will contract them alittle to make install easier. Hope this helps and i did'nt forget anything.
Also put the bushings in the freezer for about 24 yrs and that will contract them alittle to make install easier. Hope this helps and i did'nt forget anything.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
Geeze! Friggen King Pins again..... I pity you! But, since you managed to get the old ones out (most fail this test), and if you are using bronze bushings (I'd bet you are), a special tool is needed. The tool is a reamer, it cuts out the inside of the bushing so the pin slides in, snugly. I use the plastic bushings, they last for years and are easy to get out next time. Plus I don't need the reamer.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
I'm with William here. If you're using the bronze bushings, they need to be reamed. This is so you get a good fit and they are in line with each other. A machine shop will do it for about 50.00. Then the pin will just slide right in. If you have to beat on it or freeze it or anything else...it is wrong. Remember, they have to be able to move.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
Machine a brass drift with a step that fits inside the old bushing ID,-.005". The drift body must be smaller in diameter than the bushing OD,-.005". The old bushings can be drifted out and new installed with little oil at room tempature. I have a "king pin" reamer that comes with a taper guide that slides over the reamer shank, lucky me. The cheap fast nylon bushings lasted 5,000 miles, brass bushings 250,000 miles plus and still no play. Oil and lube every 2,800 to 3,000 miles. "Old iron wins over new plastic".
69 F250 step 843,000 miles,68 F250 fleet 42,000 miles, 28 year Ford Nut!...o&o>....
69 F250 step 843,000 miles,68 F250 fleet 42,000 miles, 28 year Ford Nut!...o&o>....
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
The bronze bushings will wear much better than nylon. It depends on road conditions I think. The special reamer is no longer available, so far as I know. I have one for 65 (the pins vary by a few thousands over the years), and since I have 65 axels I am fine, even though I have swapped to 78 spindles.
Machine shops will have various reamers and I think most of them just ream the spindles out till the kings slide in, and call it good. I would go bronze if you are driving in any sort of bumpy or rough surface. Nylon probably fine for drivng on streets that are decent.
later.....
Machine shops will have various reamers and I think most of them just ream the spindles out till the kings slide in, and call it good. I would go bronze if you are driving in any sort of bumpy or rough surface. Nylon probably fine for drivng on streets that are decent.
later.....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
65-79 twin Ibeam axels/spindles/radius arms are essentially identical. Look in the tech section for an article how to do it. I had 5 x 5.5 standard ford bolt pattern rims, which the later disc brakes have too. Warning -- if you like running old rims that were made for drum hubs, the older rims will rub on the new spindles. You'll need a 5/16 spacer to set the wheels out just a bit from the hubs.
In 65 and 66 trucks this is a very common swap. Requires replumbing of the brake lines, new MC etc etc. So its not "just" a swap, but you gets better, safer, more reliable brakes when you are done.
In 65 and 66 trucks this is a very common swap. Requires replumbing of the brake lines, new MC etc etc. So its not "just" a swap, but you gets better, safer, more reliable brakes when you are done.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
Thanks for the info. Don't want to get this off the origonal topic or steal the thread. That option won't work for me though. I was starting with a53 straight axle. Right now I have a 64 in it and I would like to change to an 8-bolt pattern to match my later 82 rearend. I'll keep looking.
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