When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My battery and electronics are on the other side of the engine compartment. There is a temination block on between the fuse/relay box and the firewall that says EEC test. But it doesn't look like any thing can plug into it. Is there a typical connector from one of these code readers? I don't want to buy a code reader and not know where to hook it up if it isn't obvious.
The engine graphic is from AutoZone's website. If you go there and click on the "Repair Info" link and follow the subsequent links to the the "repair guide" for your year and model Ranger, you'll actually find some pretty decent stuff in there.
I had my codes pulled last night at auto zone....got codes 11 & 12....This sucker runs poorly...rough idle after sitting a long while(weeks). I got a jumpy tach....goes up by 1K and bumps usually make it go down to right reading....does this at any speed. ABS light has come on and gone off a few times in the past, It also has a cold stall restart issue....9 times out of 10 it wont refire....usually let it sit about 15 minutes minimum and then it starts....With all of these problems I was hoping the computer codes would say something...did get the Haynes book to boot....The connector was laying down on the apron covered as it should be but on its side allowing who knows what into it possibly It was covered with a little bit of pine needles too....If contacts on that were dirty/corroded, what is best way to clean out plugs for good contact....the test was the non running w/ign. on test.....
An 11 is a pass and 12 is not a valid code, you can pull the codes yourself, see the tech info post, pulling eec-iv codes. For the RABS you also need to pull the code, I have information on this in the same thread.
yeah, before I left I had run it on freeway a bit fast....but the idle problem has been a constant issue since I got it with about 120K as has the cold stall issue. The abs light hasnt come on in a while....but when it did sometimes it would be off after sitting, go out, comes on after leaving...it was a hit and miss thing. When cold rear brakes seem kinda grabby to me....lining is about 1/2 worn, new cylinders w/small brakes. I also got a temp gauge that likes sitting near stone cold...only creeps up to bottom line most times...I think its a stuck thermostat, but dont wanna spend $$ if its something else.
On a mechanical note....how on earth do you knock the fan clutch loose from water pump? I have reefed everywhich way to no avail....The Ford book doesnt list any special tool for this thing either. Any suggestions on this or the comp. issues is appreciated....I'll go and have the codes checked again just in case corrosion was causing bad contact, but aside from that Im clueless as to whats wrong and im not one to start tossing new parts at something w/o knowing for sure its needed.