i just recently bought a 1986 f150 with a 300 in it. the only problem it has it that once it is start it still tries to start unless you take the kick wire off starter relay switch. havent tried messing with yet because i dont know where to start.

 

The Ignition cylinder on the column could be sticking if it doesn't spring back into run position, or the starter relay sol. could be bad. Check both.

 

More than likely it's the solenoid. Be standing by the starter solenoid while someone else starts it, if it keeps cranking smack it with a hammer. If this stops it then replace the solenoid.

 

Careful!!!

Bashing the start solenoid with a hammer or even a mallet is not a good practice, you could cause an explosion at the battery if the solenoid is bad. You could cause a direct short or lots of fireworks.

You can get a tube of graphite lube at your local auto parts store or Wal-mart for about $4.

Disconnect the battery, lube the ignition switch with the graphite by sticking the end of the tube inside the key slot then apply pressure. Let it sit for a while, drink a beer, smoke one, answer the phone, but let it sit for a while. Work the switch with your key many times. Retry again with the battery connected. And Yes! be sure to have an assistant handy to disconnect if same result.

Start solenoids normally fail open meaning they won't work at all, but sometimes they will fail closed when the ignition switch is energized and badly worn, or the contacts are traced (worn).

 

I had a tempo once that would do this same thing it turned out to be the solinoid it also fried the starter by staying on to long. I could get it to stop by hitting it with a wrench, but you do need to replace it if it is truly bad . Dave

 

TUFFY you are right....Start solenoids DO sometimes stick energized but that is not the norm. And yes it is far easier to change a start solenoid than an ignition switch.

The start solenoid can be checked easily with a VOM meter and disconnecting the lead to the starter but that will only tell you if the solenoid is energized or not. It will not tell you if the solenoid is stuck internally or if the switch is bad.

Checking the ignition switch start/on is a bit more complicated but more effective.

I just hate to replace stuff that don't need it, don't you?

 

My 82 302 did that and burned the starter out before I could unhoock the battery.
I put a new starter on and it workd ok now.

 

A Tube of Graphite will work IF the Ignition switch on the column is sticking IF the Key will not go in smoothly....thus if the switch is Binding to the start position, no amount of graphite will make it work better....the switch is worn to the point it really needs replacing which on a Ford it is a simple procedure IF its a earlier model. Some Ford Models require the ignition key to also fit the door locks...so those models will have to either have them keyed to the existing key by the code of the model that you have or if you don't care about using two different keys, you can buy the ignition lock already keyed at your favorite Auto Suppy store.
There could also be problems with the Switch under the column that connects to the lock cylinder on the column, it too could be in need of replacement, but that should be easy for you to figure out once you start throwing parts at it....
If the Starter Sol. is bad, the starter should be replaced as a unit IF you don't mind replacing it later...your choice of course, but to me, I rather start at the place where the problem started in the first place an then go from there instead of guessing where the problem might be.

 

locknkey is right about the binding issue and no amount of graphite will "fix" the lock cylinder if it is binding inside the column.

Sometimes the pins in the lockset get gritty and dry causing the cylinder to drag and stick.

I hate to buy stuff first and learn I did not need it. Graphite is not expensive and may well not be the solution, but worse case is he will have a well lubricated scrap ignition switch.

 

i have replaced the cylinode where the kick wire goes to the starter. im not for sure what its call though. its where the battery wire hooks to it and all that...usually monted on the fender well. and it didnt help. im thinking that it might have to do with something in the steering colum its self.

 

What you replaced is called the starter relay, they sometimes go bad but not nearly so as with the sol. on the starter, before you take it off, check to see if the connections are tight, and if they are then more than likely its your starter sol. Just replace both as a unit and then you'll know that there isn't any worn parts left to go wrong later at the supermarket...or where ever you go to test it. make sure the wires to it is oil free and disconnect the neg post from the battery first then the positive cable to get ready to remove the okd one and replace with a new or remanufacturer brand. good luck!

 

I had the same problem a few weeks ago... would wack solenoid with my fist and it would release. New soloniod is less than $20 and I installed it in 10 minutes.

 

ill try replacing it tomorrow and see what happens thinks for the advice.